What should I expect to pay for a SYE and DC driveshaft install?

EROCK

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What should I expect for shop price on SYE and Double Cardon shaft. Parts and labor. I want them to get the parts because I don't want to screw up measuring the prop shaft lenth. Also do I only need to do the rear shaft?
 
The parts will be around $500-$600 give or take. The labor should be several hours, so maybe $300-$400 (I'd always respect to pay more).

You only need to do the rear driveshaft, but you WILL need upper adjustable rear control arms at a minimum, which will obviously add to the cost and labor.
 
The parts will be around $500-$600 give or take. The labor should be several hours, so maybe $300-$400 (I'd always respect to pay more).

You only need to do the rear driveshaft, but you WILL need upper adjustable rear control arms at a minimum, which will obviously add to the cost and labor.
Ok, I've got all Core Teir 4 adjustbles. So at least I'm good there. There is a tire shop here in Hot Springs that says they will probably do it but I am a bit sceptical having a tire shop do that kind of work. No jeep shops here. But they say they have a jeep guy that works on jeep stuff for them. Cautiously inquiring with them. They want me to bring them the jeep to get clearer answers.
 
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I had a shop install my first SYE and DC shaft (back before I knew what I was doing). IIRC it was right at $1k.

$300 for the advance adapters SYE, $300 for a DC shaft, and then the rest was labor.

An SYE is very easy and can be done with common tools. Measuring is as simple as yoke to yoke once you have the SYE installed. Companies like Tom Wood and Adams have been doing this long enough that they can get you the proper length. When I removed the AA sye and put in a JB Conversions one I think I had the whole thing done in 3-4 hours, which included breaks to drink a beer and readjusting the control arms.
 
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What should I expect for shop price on SYE and Double Cardon shaft. Parts and labor. I want them to get the parts because I don't want to screw up measuring the prop shaft lenth. Also do I only need to do the rear shaft?
Trust me when I say this is something you can do yourself if you have basic tools and a bit of mechanical ability. The sye can be while still in the jeep with basic hand tools. The only special tool you will need is a set of snap ring pliers.
You should be able to find endless threads / information detailing the exact installation. As far as the control arms go you would pull them out one by one setting them to the exact length of the current arms. The rear upper, or lower, will need to be adjusted a bit to get the pinion angle in line with the DS. (a digital angle finder works really well. 2 work even better)

Worst case you could have the shop do the final adjustment but I doubt a tire shop would do a good job.

You will only need a rear shaft.
looks like the cost is just under $600 http://www.4xshaft.com/
Call Tom woods and they would be more then willing to talk to you about the sye and walk you through the measurements. I have spoken with them many times and they are very knowledgeable and easy to talk to.
 
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A good transmission shop should be up to the task. I pulled my TC out myself and took it to a local Mom/Pop transmission shop. $300 labor and I supplied the AA SYE, a new chain, shop supplied new bearings/seals for the tc.
If your TC has a harmonic balancer on the output shaft, it will need to be pressed off using three 6mm cap screws. The balancer has three threaded holes to accomplish this. Not all TJ's have this harmonic balancer, so you'll have to look.
20170606_161134.jpg
 
They want me to bring them the jeep to get clearer answers.

Understandable. Most reputable shops won't give a quote over the phone. They need to see what they're dealing with in order to give you a more accurate figure.
 
I agree with others that you should be able to do it yourself. I suggest pulling the transfer case out doing the SYE on the bench. It’s also a good opportunity to do other work like a cable shifter.

I took the opportunity to install a cable shifter and a barnes4wd skid plate. I went with an adams driveshaft. I’m happy with how it came out. Is your Jeep your DD?


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A good transmission shop should be up to the task. I pulled my TC out myself and took it to a local Mom/Pop transmission shop. $300 labor and I supplied the AA SYE, a new chain, shop supplied new bearings/seals for the tc.
If your TC has a harmonic balancer on the output shaft, it will need to be pressed off using three 6mm cap screws. The balancer has three threaded holes to accomplish this. Not all TJ's have this harmonic balancer, so you'll have to look.
View attachment 96948
Ya I think mine does. I'll look.
 
I'm getting it done as well and labor is @ $275 for the SYE and driveshaft install. He's doing a ton of work on the suspension at the same time so would probably be just a bit more if it was just those two parts.
 
The parts will be around $500-$600 give or take. The labor should be several hours, so maybe $300-$400 (I'd always respect to pay more).

You only need to do the rear driveshaft, but you WILL need upper adjustable rear control arms at a minimum, which will obviously add to the cost and labor.
Why the uppers and not the lowers?
 
Trust me when I say this is something you can do yourself if you have basic tools and a bit of mechanical ability. The sye can be while still in the jeep with basic hand tools. The only special tool you will need is a set of snap ring pliers.
You should be able to find endless threads / information detailing the exact installation. As far as the control arms go you would pull them out one by one setting them to the exact length of the current arms. The rear upper, or lower, will need to be adjusted a bit to get the pinion angle in line with the DS. (a digital angle finder works really well. 2 work even better)

Worst case you could have the shop do the final adjustment but I doubt a tire shop would do a good job.

You will only need a rear shaft.
looks like the cost is just under $600 http://www.4xshaft.com/
Call Tom woods and they would be more then willing to talk to you about the sye and walk you through the measurements. I have spoken with them many times and they are very knowledgeable and easy to talk to.
Snap ring pliers-

612xrvREhsL._SX466_.jpg
Lock ring pliers-

716hbYpJ-CL._SX466_.jpg
It is unfortunate that the accepted bastardization of search terms has diluted the accuracy to the point that when one types in lock ring, they get snap ring and snap ring searches bring up lock ring pliers. The distinction is important if you want to get the job done.
 
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Why the uppers and not the lowers?

Most recommend the adjustable uppers at minimum (to folks who don't want to pay for an entire set of adjustable arms). Is that wrong? Are the lowers an absolute requirement?
 
Most recommend the adjustable uppers at minimum (to folks who don't want to pay for an entire set of adjustable arms). Is that wrong? Are the lowers an absolute requirement?
Recommending uppers is a carryover from the bullshit that uppers set pinion angle and lowers set wheelbase. Due to the very simple fact that the uppers are above axle tube centerline and lowers are below axle tube centerline, it is not possible to adjust either the upper or lower arms without changing BOTH wheel base and pinion angle.

If you want to set it up correctly and keep the tire and axle where they belong or have to be depending on the rig, you would typically need to pull the axle back forward after raising the pinion because you pushed it back when you raised the pinion.
 
Recommending uppers is a carryover from the bullshit that uppers set pinion angle and lowers set wheelbase. Due to the very simple fact that the uppers are above axle tube centerline and lowers are below axle tube centerline, it is not possible to adjust either the upper or lower arms without changing BOTH wheel base and pinion angle.

If you want to set it up correctly and keep the tire and axle where they belong or have to be depending on the rig, you would typically need to pull the axle back forward after raising the pinion because you pushed it back when you raised the pinion.

Good to know. I see so many people mention getting away with only uppers (for people on a budget), so I wasn't entirely sure. What you're saying makes sense though.
 
It is unfortunate that the accepted bastardization of search terms has diluted the accuracy to the point that when one types in lock ring, they get snap ring and snap ring searches bring up lock ring pliers. The distinction is important if you want to get the job done.

And I even referenced Adams drive shafts installation video yesterday to confirm it was snap ring :ROFLMAO:

2:35

 
Recommending uppers is a carryover from the bullshit that uppers set pinion angle and lowers set wheelbase. Due to the very simple fact that the uppers are above axle tube centerline and lowers are below axle tube centerline, it is not possible to adjust either the upper or lower arms without changing BOTH wheel base and pinion angle.

If you want to set it up correctly and keep the tire and axle where they belong or have to be depending on the rig, you would typically need to pull the axle back forward after raising the pinion because you pushed it back when you raised the pinion.


So if I had to buy my adj CAs one set at a time, in what order would you recommend I get them?