STICKY What should I look for when buying a used Wrangler TJ?

Here’s a pic.

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Thanks. Lesson learned. Externally looked decent but sticking my finger in the frame was another story. Definitely reinforces the need to actually see a potential buy in person.
 
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JoeH said:
Thanks. Lesson learned. Externally looked decent but sticking my finger in the frame was another story. Definitely reinforces the need to actually see a potential buy in person.
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I would never buy a TJ sight unseen without checking out the frame in person first. The only exception to that would be if you had someone knowledgable go check it out for you, or you had a pre-purchase inspection done from a reputable place who knew the things to look for.

Too many rusted frames out there to worth chancing it. Another thing you can do is if you find one you are interested in and it's out of state, post something up on the forum and chances are someone on here who is in that state may be able to go by (if it's close enough to them) and inspect it for you. The majority of us know what to look for.
 
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Hi everyone. New member here looking to join the TJ community. Asking opinions on a 03 TJ 90k miles I'm going to see this weekend. I've looked at a good number of TJs already so I'm familiar what to look out for. Just would like the confirmation of the experts to help me feel more confident. Pics below. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

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Well I'm afraid I have those problems, rust that is in my '97, the frame has been "braced" with welded plates probably some 10 years ago before I got it. You fellows have it right, the problem is insidious and keeps eating slowly away. I'm considering re-framing it and starting ground up ( these things become like pet dogs). But I might be better off going to south Texas and starting fresh. The Midwest is a beast.
 
Chris said:
This is a really, really common question we see a lot of. I'm going to try to answer it as best I can, and if anyone else has anything to add please free free to respond.

Rust
If you're in the market for a 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ the number one thing you want to look for over anything else is rust. The chassis of these vehicles is extremely prone to rust issues, especially if you're located in the mid-west, east coast or other areas where they use salt on the roads in the Winter time.

Rust can be a huge issue on these vehicles. I've seen rust so bad that it's literally caused the frames to snap in half while driving down the road. It's no joking matter as that can be life threatening and extremely dangerous should something like that happen.

Having said that, when looking to purchase a TJ it would be a wise investment to either have a professional shop to a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) or if you feel comfortable doing it yourself, make sure to crawl underneath the vehicle and inspect every nook and cranny for rust. A few areas of surface rust isn't a big deal as it can be treated easily. What you're looking for will be huge areas of rust, and it will usually involve the frame of the vehicle.

In addition to checking the underside, it's a good idea to hit the frame (possibly with a rubber mallet) to see if you can knock any chunks of rust flakes loose from inside the frame (another area prone to rust).

It's always a safe bet to purchase a Wrangler TJ that has been a west coast car (or somewhere warm) where they don't salt the roads. Those vehicles usually have a much better chance of being free of rust issues.


Engine
You might have heard from someone that Jeeps are unreliable. This is actually quite inaccurate as a properly maintained Wrangler TJ is probably one of the most reliable vehicles out there. Take into consideration that you're dealing with an iron block, iron head, underhead cam pushrod driven engine. That's basically a tractor engine, and if you know about tractors, you'll know they build those things to be bullet proof.

The 4.0 engine in the TJ doesn't have any notorious weak points other than the OPDA (Oil Pump Drive Assembly). If the OPDA is going bad you will know because it will make a loud sound that almost sounds like a laughing barrel of monkeys. If you hear this noise it's bad news, so either have it inspected before purchasing it or walk away. It's a cheap part to fix and very easy to do, but if it goes bad it can result it catastrophic engine failure.

Other than the OPDA, the 4.0 (like most other engines out there) is as reliable as they come. Change the oil, do the scheduled maintenance and you shouldn't have anything to worry about. It's not uncommon by any means to see these things running healthy with perfect compression well past 300k miles. I've seen some with half a million miles still on the original internals.

This engine may not be the best performing engine, and it may be a gas hog at that. However, it certainly was built with longevity and durability in mind. The 4.0 engine found in the Wrangler has been around since 1965 since AMC first introduced it. It's got a proven track record and it's stood the test of time.


Drivetrain
Make sure you look at the trackbar(s) for wear and slotting of the mounts, especially the front one. This can cause death wobble and a potentially very dangerous situation. Also make sure that the transfer case shifts into 4WD (both high and low range) and functions properly. If the rig came with or has been retrofitted with lockers, be sure test them as well.

It's also helpful to determine what kind of axles the vehicle has prior to purchasing it. The addition of Dana 44 axles makes the Wrangler worth a bit more money and more desirable over all.


Conclusion
Rust should be your first concern when purchasing any used Wrangler TJ. It is hands down the number one issue with all used Wrangler TJs, and you really do not want to purchase a vehicle with major rust issues as it will be a huge, huge money pit.

Other than rust, there's really nothing vehicle specific that comes to my mind that you should look for when purchasing a used Wrangler TJ. Just like any other vehicle, you want to make sure you know the maintenance history, get a good CarFax, make sure the vehicle has never had any major accidents, clean title, etc. Unless you're looking for a project stay away from the cheap Wranglers as they often always spell trouble.

The Wrangler TJ is notorious for having a high resale value. Expect to pay a good chunk of change for one that is well kept and in good condition. Do your homework first, and if you see one that you're unsure about (or just want a second opinion) post pictures and details up on the forum so we can help you decide. A lot of us on here have a huge knowledge of Wranglers and would be more than happy to give you our thoughts and opinions.

Last but not least, check out the sticky on stock Wrangler TJ specifications as it will give you a complete break down of all the factory trim packages, models, options and specifications.
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Don't forget rear main seal leak!
 
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Hi everyone!
I'm looking into purchasing my first Wrangler. I've always loved the TJs. I've been reading and researching about what the common issues to look for are. Being in PA, I know rust is going to be a major issue when looking to buy. There are 2 TJs for sale in my area at separate small dealers. I am looking to buy a manual with the 4.0L 6 Cyl engine. I have not have the chance to drive either of them yet. I just wanted opinions on what I know about them so far.

The first is a Black 2000 Sport with 152,XXX mi on it. The frame seems to have some surface rust (I plan on going to take pictures of it tomorrow or the next day). Also, the skid plate over the muffler is pretty rusted too (I'll take a pic of this as well). The dealer is asking $7,500 for it.

The next one is an Orange 2005 Sport with 163,XXX mi on it. The frame seems to have very limited rust. It does have some body rust in 2 places (see pictures- driver side by fender and back right side by spare tire) The dealer is asking $7,990 for it.

I know there are many more things to look for once I get a chance to drive them. Again, I'm just looking for first impressions/opinions so far.

Thanks in advance!!

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Ksload92 said:
Hi everyone!
I'm looking into purchasing my first Wrangler. I've always loved the TJs. I've been reading and researching about what the common issues to look for are. Being in PA, I know rust is going to be a major issue when looking to buy. There are 2 TJs for sale in my area at separate small dealers. I am looking to buy a manual with the 4.0L 6 Cyl engine. I have not have the chance to drive either of them yet. I just wanted opinions on what I know about them so far.

The first is a Black 2000 Sport with 152,XXX mi on it. The frame seems to have some surface rust (I plan on going to take pictures of it tomorrow or the next day). Also, the skid plate over the muffler is pretty rusted too (I'll take a pic of this as well). The dealer is asking $7,500 for it.

The next one is an Orange 2005 Sport with 163,XXX mi on it. The frame seems to have very limited rust. It does have some body rust in 2 places (see pictures- driver side by fender and back right side by spare tire) The dealer is asking $7,990 for it.

I know there are many more things to look for once I get a chance to drive them. Again, I'm just looking for first impressions/opinions so far.

Thanks in advance!!
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Without seeing the frames, I can't comment. I would buy the one with the least amount of rust (preferably NO rust) first. I'd rather have high miles any day as oppose to rust.
 
chacheebuns said:
Hey everyone, hoping to be a new wrangler owner soon! Found this 04 Rubi and wondering if you guys could give your thoughts and opinions on it. I know there's no pics of underneath but hoping to get any insight.

https://www.selectjeeps.com/2004-jeep-wrangler-rubicon-c-12662.htm

Thanks!
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Personally I only checked for a few big things:

1. Rust
2. Any signs of the wobble
3. Obvious auditory issues (screaming monkeys, rubs, scrapes, etc)
4. Was it wheeled hard? For me this mostly meant the distance from stock and the underbody scars. If too far from stock, is it components I’d want to run?

I’m still early in my TJ (I have an LJR) journey, but the issues so far where cheap sensors - if you’re willing to put in some time yourself. I also stupidly replaced the stock suspension before deciding my lift... so burned some lift budget delaying that.
 
You will want to have the axel ratio changed if it hasn't already from the 4.10 to the 4:56 or 4.88 with those 35" tires it will not run on the highway well otherwise. Check rear main seal for leaking.
My personal challenge is the brakes. when lifted, pig iron hung all over, winch, etc and 35" tires, the brakes become rather weak and dangerous. I am chasing a ghost in the system. Bottom line pay close attention to the brakes.
Your jeep is a beauty.
 
Thanks for the advice fellas! Will take all of it into account. Also, assuming the underside is clean, what do you think is a reasonable offer for it?

@Carl Kocurek Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question but is there a quick way to check what gear ratio its on?
 
chacheebuns said:
Thanks for the advice fellas! Will take all of it into account. Also, assuming the underside is clean, what do you think is a reasonable offer for it?

@Carl Kocurek Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question but is there a quick way to check what gear ratio its on?
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Here’s how to determine your axle gear ratio:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-do-i-determine-my-axle-gear-ratio.72/

If it’s rust free, their asking price is fair. I’d offer $17,500 to see if they bite, but all things considered, I paid 20k for my 2005 Rubicon with 65k mikes and completely rust free.
 
Definitely rust on frame first. Check for oil leaks around TFC and valve cover, and at bell housing. Also, test drive, put in 4x4, and turn the steering all the way both left and right while driving slowly, notice any wobble or clicking. Always take pictures of anything you find, you can text them to seller when negotiating price.
 
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