OP
Here's what I consider acceptable rust:
Here's what I consider unacceptable frame rust:
Here's what I consider unacceptable frame rust:
STICKY What should I look for when buying a used Wrangler TJ?
- Thread starter Chris
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- buying used wrangler tj
OP
I should add that I personally don't consider ANY frame rust to be acceptable in all honesty. However, if it's just light surface rust like the first picture, it could be fairly easily fixed. The second photo is beyond repair, you'd need a new frame (and serious labor) to fix that.
Seriously though, if you're looking to buy a used TJ, don't get antsy to blow your money. Spend lots of time (even months or years) until you find the perfect, rust free TJ. They do exist, and I promise you they'll be so much less of a headache to own (and sell, should you ever want to sell it).
Seriously though, if you're looking to buy a used TJ, don't get antsy to blow your money. Spend lots of time (even months or years) until you find the perfect, rust free TJ. They do exist, and I promise you they'll be so much less of a headache to own (and sell, should you ever want to sell it).
Ha! I read the previous post thinking, that rust on the frame in the first picture would bug the shit out of me and I would need to address it immediately.
OP
Ha! I read the previous post thinking, that rust on the frame in the first picture would bug the shit out of me and I would need to address it immediately.
I agree. If I had money saved to buy a TJ, I would wait years if I had to, just to find one that was rust free. However, there's a lot of guys who are impatient. I guess if I was going to buy one with rust, I would make sure it was surface rust only.
Still, dealing with rust is such a messy pain in the ass. You're better off avoiding rust altogether.
I deemed this to be "acceptable" rust. I'm in Michigan, this came from Ohio and Originally Vermont. It will need wirewheeled and POR-15 coated within 6 months to prevent the spread of cancer. When I went to look at it, I used a ball-peen to check the frame. I wasn't gentle. Its solid, so its surface rust only. Floors are solid, body mounts are solid. Honestly, I calculated the cost difference between staying local (within 200 miles) and going to Houston or Florida to buy one. This was at enough of a discount that I deemed it worth my time to repair.
Mom of Teen
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Mom of Teen
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Looking at a 2006 Wrangler Unlimited TJ Long WH with 82,000 miles for my 16 year old. Obviously safety is a concern, and this forum is very helpful. Visible rust between front and rear bumper and frame; also at muffler/tail pipe and windshield wipers. Will probably need new soft top because rear window would not zip in. Only after factory is rear tow pkg with tow light kit and front fog lights on front bumper. Check engine light was on during test drive and radio did not work, as vehicle was just traded in to dealer and has not gone through detail or service check yet. Uploading photos for your opinion on buy or pass.
OP
What are they asking for it? Also, do you happen to have any photos of the frame at all?
The inside and outside look pretty good to me. A new soft top for an LJ model will set you back about $400-$1200 give or take (so factor that into the price, or negotiate them down on the price to compensate for that), but other than that and the rusty wiper blade, it looks good from what I can see!
The wipers being rusted is nothing, those get replaced with new blades anyway. I don't think the rust on the ends of the frame where the bumpers mount is any big deal either. The bumpers are very easy to remove to work on eliminating the rust there. The biggest concern with rust is in the frame where the skid plate mounts, and where the lower control arm mounts are. If those are solid when checked with a hammer, any surface rust can be taken care of. If the dealer selling this will take care of the non-working radio and the check engine light, ask them to check out the rust also. By checking out the rust, I don't mean spray undercoating over it. That just masks the problem if there is one.
Mom of Teen
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OP
$12,500 is a reasonable offer, if I were them, I would take it.
What possible engine problems do you think there are?
Mom of Teen
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OP
NDUFFY
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I don't know if you bought that Jeep, but for others looking I would like to make a few comments... one that is an unlimited Jeep wrangler so the asking price will be a little higher then a typical Jeep. I am assuming it is because not many of them are made each year vs demand for them. I live in PA pricing will change throughout the year, I am currently looking at Jeeps and have been price shopping for 5 years. most years june, july, and August are the height of sales so price will go up... that being said I noticed this year prices are falling right now which means it is a buyers market so be willing to offer much less. I found Car Gurus site to be very helpful in price changes and price fairness. Don't be afraid to get on your back or belly and crawl under the Jeep to search for rust in all locations, and if you don't have a hammer use your fist to knock on any rust to see if it crumbles, breaks, and how does it sound. this may sound like a waste of time but it isn't as stated above sellers will use paint to try and hide rust using your other sense will help you uncover what may be hidden. I have also found an app called VIN useful, just enter the vehicle vin and it will tell you about it. 3 lift up the carpet on the inside of the jeep, is the floor in good shape? 4 test soft top resiliency hard tops look for cracks or crack repairs. 5 drive the jeep and listen as you drive. That should give anyone a good head start
I Ann looking to buy my first Wrangler and I have my eye on this 2003 Tj Rubicon. It has been in Georgia all of its life so I'm am not too worried about rust. My main concern are the mods done to it, but who ever owned it spend a sizeabke chunk of money on rigid industries led lights so I'm hoping that they also used quality parts for the rest of the mods. One question I have is the vent looking thing on the hard top. I'm fairly sure that they don't come on the oem hardtop but I could be wrong. If anyone has any input or ideas on that or what I should be concerned about please let me know.
OP
First off, that's an awesome, awesome color. If you can score that one, it's worth it just for the color alone (it's a pretty rare color).
The hard tops from the 1997-2002 models came with the rear vents. The ones for the 2003-2006 models came without the rear vents. The only difference in the hard tops is the vents, so realistically there is no problem with it having that hard top. Just know that it isn't the factory hard top that came with it. He probably bought it without a hard top, so he found one for sale used and put it on, it just happened to be from a 1997-2002 model.
Aside from those ugly LED light cubes and light bar (sorry, not a fan of them personally), it looks like it was well built. But that's hard to say for sure. Who knows what kind of lift is on there, and I'd still like to inspect the underside for rust regardless, only because you never know if it originated in Georgia or somewhere else.
Thanks Chris. Yeah I'm not a huge fan of the lights, but I'm hoping if someone is willing to spend 2 grand on lights then they wouldn't skimp out on the lift and other mods. I love the color also it's pretty sweet. I'll make sure to get under it and under the carpets to check for rust. It is from a dealer too so I doubt whoever traded it in told the dealer what parts they put on but I'll find out next weekend when I go check it out. Thanks again for the quick reply! Love the forum so far, tons of info.
That's a good looking Rubi. You do want to check that the lockers are working. Also, climb underneath and check for things like mud in the frame. If you can pull the plugs on the diffs and check for any water or oil fluid. Looks like it once had a winch. Check to see that the wiring hasn't been jacked up.
