Fitment is looking pretty clean, static or bags?
^^^For those who say a farm jack is a sin:
View attachment 223851
Use it, learn it, carry it.
Yes, the ReadyWelder pic is posed. I did use it though. Beautiful welds. Not a production gun but 5-6 inches of 3/4 speed weld and it does good.
Please expand on this. I was considering the rough country track bars (front and rear) but don't want to end up with crap. I'm not going crazy rock climbing but want something decent. I see a lot of people recommending the JKS, but (I may be wrong) doesn't that require drilling...at least on the front? I would rather avoid doing anything that prevents a return to stock form...although if the juice is worth the squeeze I'll drill away.Rough Country rear track bar
Begs the question: Have you ever used it . . . . know how to use it?
I have front and rear. Fine for me. Everyone’s uses are different.Please expand on this. I was considering the rough country track bars (front and rear) but don't want to end up with crap. I'm not going crazy rock climbing but want something decent. I see a lot of people recommending the JKS, but (I may be wrong) doesn't that require drilling...at least on the front? I would rather avoid doing anything that prevents a return to stock form...although if the juice is worth the squeeze I'll drill away.
The RC is a beefy unit, .200" diameter larger that the stock, seems about 5 lbs heavier too. No drilling or cheesy relocation bracket needed, if you look at how to install the rear relo brack it does not instill confidence, some of the holes have short ED (edge distance of the hole required to bolt the bracket to the axle- looks too close for me). The length can be adjusted without pulling the attachment bolt. Simple process to center up the rear axle. I would recommend blue locktite on the clamps that keep the bar from twisty. My mission is running forrest roads with some light rock work, didn't see the need to spend $200 plus on basically a strut that sees moderate compression and tension loads- IMO the forged steel RC bar stock should be sufficient.Please expand on this. I was considering the rough country track bars (front and rear) but don't want to end up with crap. I'm not going crazy rock climbing but want something decent. I see a lot of people recommending the JKS, but (I may be wrong) doesn't that require drilling...at least on the front? I would rather avoid doing anything that prevents a return to stock form...although if the juice is worth the squeeze I'll drill away.
I'm pretty much in the same "use" scenario, just enough "rock climbing" to get to those hard to get to fishing spots and ghost towns. I would rather use the money saved by going RC over JKS on something like a MML to reduce DL angle. Thanks for the tip on the LocTite, the rear adjustment point would be the one thing that gives me a little concern, but "gluing" it down would alleviate that a bit.The RC is a beefy unit, .200" diameter larger that the stock, seems about 5 lbs heavier too. No drilling or cheesy relocation bracket needed, if you look at how to install the rear relo brack it does not instill confidence, some of the holes have short ED (edge distance of the hole required to bolt the bracket to the axle- looks too close for me). The length can be adjusted without pulling the attachment bolt. Simple process to center up the rear axle. I would recommend blue locktite on the clamps that keep the bar from twisty. My mission is running forrest roads with some light rock work, didn't see the need to spend $200 plus on basically a strut that sees moderate compression and tension loads- IMO the forged steel RC bar stock should be sufficient.
@AndyG I just wanted to say that I really enjoyed this.Sure, l looked under it...I was like a dog looking at a ceiling fan. Just mesmerized.
Can I interest you in a paragraph break or two?Great thread, the advice is plentiful here and gives a shit load of ideas on how to do stuff, I am always intrigued by the money spent on these rigs, and don’t get me wrong some of y’all use the shit out of them and I would do this same if I was able to go on trails that some go on, the rest of us like the look but can’t or don’t wanna spend that money on a lift or 35’s and correct gearing, the info is for perfection, not a law, but what you can do is build what you can with what you can afford, I’ve seen people post their Chinese bumper and all the people love it, even the pros say things like “I use to run one of those”, I have many forum sins on my Tj that I have done despite the census, but I like it the way it is and for that I owe a lot to this forum, and at the end of the day, like @mrblaine says, who cares!
I'm trying to get people that say this to send me checks.I owe a lot to this forum
I said it all in one breath.. no breaks!Can I interest you in a paragraph break or two?
Me: *laughing in Hemi swap* - "Yup!"my sin is unwarranted modifications...............i didn't have to........ i just wanted to.
At least someone gets it LOL. I post soemtimes on it just to rile up the nest . But yes, I am building it from what Ive always wanted and couldnt afford. I will say this, 37`s on a TJ is gonna cost. And its gonna cost big. Best to start with a Jeep that is better engineered for 37s. Thats just my take at 38k in and probably 10k out of completion. And yes, Im doing a charger on the motor.I think that some of it comes from people asking for a recommendation and a typical response will usually be something along the lines of Savvy or Currie at least as far as lifts go.
There are some who get slightly offended by those recommendations, but at the same time the person came and asked for recommendations in the first place.
I agree though. You should build it however you want it. Look at that @custommuffler guy and the way he’s building his. He doesn’t give a shit what anyone else thinks and his thread has become a bit of a comedy as well. I actually enjoy reading it just to see who he will insult next