What would you do?

[robalex32]

Thanks all for keeping replying.
Thanks Ranger Rick, finally somebody give me a solution with the gears, and make sense to keep the 35's.

 

[robalex32]

Is something like this good for my case?

Prothane TOTAL Complete Suspension Bushing Kit FOR 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ (Red) | eBay

As enthusiasts and racers, we take great pride in being the first to bring you better polyurethane bushings, transmission and motor mounts to enhance the performance of your vehicle. Prothane TOTAL Suspension Bushing Kit.

rover.ebay.com

 

[glwood]

Is something like this good for my case?

Prothane TOTAL Complete Suspension Bushing Kit FOR 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ (Red) | eBay

As enthusiasts and racers, we take great pride in being the first to bring you better polyurethane bushings, transmission and motor mounts to enhance the performance of your vehicle. Prothane TOTAL Suspension Bushing Kit.

rover.ebay.com

No. Poly bushings are not an upgrade, despite what Prothane will tell you.

 

[robalex32]

which are the recommended ones?

 

[robalex32]

glwood,I read your https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/glwoods-2004-rubicon.9356/ ,really nice one you got!
First, how is your shoulder?
second, will the transfer case cable replace the linkage in the pic?
and also added to the list the spiderwebshade,nice upgrade here in SF.

 

[TJBob]

Stick with rubber bushings! The poly is a harder material so it’s less forgiving. I’m by no means an expert. I’ll leave it to someone else, that’s more knowledgeable on the subject, to break it down Barney style for you. I just know that about 99% of the time, OEM rubber bushings are recommended. I do believe I seen a thread here somewhere talking about how poly is better or acceptable for the front/rear anti-swaybars, but I could be mistaken...

And yes as for your question about the T-case shifter cable. It replaces the OEM linkage completely. Most here will recommend Savvy. There is another common shifter cable as well, but I can’t remember the manufacturer name. It is very similar to the Savvy cable shifter.

 

[sjalkian]

Stick with rubber bushings! The poly is a harder material so it’s less forgiving. I’m by no means an expert. I’ll leave it to someone else, that’s more knowledgeable on the subject, to break it down Barney style for you. I just know that about 99% of the time, OEM rubber bushings are recommended. I do believe I seen a thread here somewhere talking about how poly is better or acceptable for the front/rear anti-swaybars, but I could be mistaken...

And yes as for your question about the T-case shifter cable. It replaces the OEM linkage completely. Most here will recommend Savvy. There is another common shifter cable as well, but I can’t remember the manufacturer name. It is very similar to the Savvy cable shifter.

Novak also makes a shifter cable. That's what I have in my TJ. Works way better than the linkage setup.

 

[TJBob]

Novak also makes a shifter cable. That's what I have in my TJ. Works way better than the linkage setup.

Novak! That’s the one! Couldn’t remember that to save my life!

 

[robalex32]

Perfect,another one on the list.
how about an Optima battery?is the one most of you use?

 

[DrDmoney]

Perfect,another one on the list.
how about an Optima battery?is the one most of you use?

Odessey is the preferred for some.

Odyssey 34-PC1500T Automotive and LTV Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00249CSS2/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Not cheap though

 

[Equilibrium31]

After you get it running.

A cheap budget build that will go almost anywhere:

2.5” OME
2” Tuck
SYE/DC
Rear CA’s
32 x 11.5

If you want

Regear
Lock

I love how you say "cheap" when that will easily cost more than double (maybe triple after the regear) what is being paid for the whole Jeep, haha.

I don't necessarily disagree, but the OME lift, transfer case drop, and 31s may be a bit more budget friendly.

 

[DrDmoney]

I love how you say "cheap" when that will easily cost more than double (maybe triple after the regear) what is being paid for the whole Jeep, haha.

I don't necessarily disagree, but the OME lift, transfer case drop, and 31s may be a bit more budget friendly.

I believe it already has a TC drop

 

[Quigley]

After you get it running.

A cheap budget build that will go almost anywhere:

2.5” OME
2” Tuck
SYE/DC
Rear CA’s
32 x 11.5

If you want

Regear
Lock

Lol, a cheap budget is now $3,000 in mods. Man we are a sick collective in this group.

Op, will the Jeep be a show pony or a trail hero so we can spend your money more effectively?

You could always sell off the hardtop and full doors to help fund the Jeeps renewal.

Half doors, soft top to keep weight down stock tire carrier and ditch the rear bumper to avoid a regear. Add an OME 2.5” lift with some bfg ko2’s in 31’s and the Jeep will climb any mountain ya got in Florida.

 

[JMT]

I love how you say "cheap" when that will easily cost more than double (maybe triple after the regear) what is being paid for the whole Jeep, haha.

I don't necessarily disagree, but the OME lift, transfer case drop, and 31s may be a bit more budget friendly.

Cheap is a relative term.

Budget is also a relative term.

 

[glwood]

glwood,I read your https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/glwoods-2004-rubicon.9356/ ,really nice one you got!
First, how is your shoulder?
second, will the transfer case cable replace the linkage in the pic?
and also added to the list the spiderwebshade,nice upgrade here in SF.

Thank you, I appreciate the compliment. I got really lucky stumbling upon this TJ.

The shoulder is about 99%, almost good as new.

The Savvy cable shifter is a huge upgrade from that rattletrap monstrosity of rods and plastic bushings some 'engineer' @ Jeep dreamed up while smoking pot. And I'd rank the Spiderwebshade or equivalent up near the top of the must have list, right next to GraBar grab handles, things every Jeeper would get a lot of use out of.

 

[alittleoff]

My guess is coke & booze. But ultimately it's a fucking bean counters decision.

 

[robalex32]

No hills, no snow, here in Florida.
Due to the recommendations to lower the weight,I'm planing on fabricating aluminum bumpers, fuel tank skid, maybe the fenders?
what else can I shave some pounds?

 

[RangerRick]

Hesus freakin Kristo man,

Keep the weight down and the rig lightweight, run whatcha brung to the party, don't go backwards! Otherwise what's the point? A Barbie street beach jeep? I like the aluminum armor idea OP.

If I had a nickel for every OME & 31's comment......

1st off:

31's aren't free.
The OP says the Jeep has a 4" lift already.
The OP also has the 35's already.
The combined OME lift & new 31's won't save anything really over a regear in money, time & labor.

The purpose of the regear is to maintain drivability. Most 4-cylinder TJ's already came with 4.10's to run the 225x75x15 tires stock on them when the Jeep was new. Obviously the Jeep engineers knew something about keeping the power up or there would have been 3.55's or worse installed from the factory.

Keep what you have and regear the axles. If you want more then lunchbox lockers or some kind of traction aid added during regear.

OP, keep your focus....

It's a cheap Jeep project and for $1200 buy in with that much rust, don't waste time on replacing suspension parts or wheels & tires. Not worth it.......

 

[RangerRick]

Again, this is a $1200 toy with a lot of rust on the suspension. If you try to remove bolts there is no doubt many will snap off and break in the process causing lots of grief trying to change the suspension brand and configuration this late in the game. Leave it and regear it is best.

If you're found wanting more after all that, sell it or trade it for a 6-cylinder in better shape, then you can dump the TON OF $$$$ in the new one as a permanent keeper.

Common sense.

 

[Baltimoreed]

A huge part of any build [either a firearm, house or vehicle] is how much can you do yourself. Do you have the tools, a place to work, the talent or even the time for diy. This needs to figure into the equation too. Otherwise it’s a money pit that will hopefully have a good outcome but will probably be expensive even with the low cost at the start. Good luck. Keep us posted.