What's the general consensus on the 42RLE and P1776 code?

cr0sh

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May 7, 2017
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Location
Glendale, AZ, United States
This code has thrown on me twice, and both time were under similar conditions. I've read a lot about this code, and owners seem to either "throw parts and money at it, plus a prayer or two" - and they may get lucky, or they may not - or they're of the "get rid of it and go with a manual" camp.

Ideally, I don't want to land in either camp, because $$$ (and for the latter, I can't drive stick - though I have a friend who says he'll teach me if I need it) - so I'm wondering if anyone knows of a real solution? I'm going to be taking my Jeep in to the mechanic on Monday, in the hopes that maybe a solution can be found, but if one if already known, I'll pass it on to him.

In my particular case, I feel it it heat related. In both cases (one last year sometime in May, and one this year around the same time frame), I was driving a fair distance, somewhat "non-stop" (I'd go someplace on the other side of Phoenix and back home), it was 100+ degrees out, and I had my AC running. The first time it happened last year, based on things I read, was that the "simple thing to check" was my fluid level. Mine was low, so I added some, and didn't have another problem, until the second time. This time, my fluid level was a little low (so I topped it up), but in the process of doing that, I had parked under a tree, and had spent about a half-hour between the code read, refill and reading about the issue. So my engine and everything had a chance to cool down some. Everything was fine again, until I got close to home, when it threw the code again, and so I pulled over, turned it off for 30 seconds turned it back on, then was able to drive the rest of the way home without an issue.

I haven't driven it since then (I don't really have any places I need to go), but I would like to get back out there, but I don't want that code popping up all the time (if for no other reasons than for passing emissions).

My plan is this: Take it to my mechanic, and see if they can figure it out (they've done magic for me in the past) - but regardless of whether they are able to or not, I intend to have them install a decent transmission cooler, plus a larger pan (with a drain plug). I'm also thinking maybe getting that one shift kit installed, too (I forget the name/brand/model - but it's been rec'd by several people - I probably have notes on it somewhere).

A couple of other things about my TJ that I've noticed - which I am not sure are related or not (my gut says maybe on one, and no on the other - but I don't really know):

1. Ever since I've had my TJ, there have been random times where, when I go to start it up, it does nothing - I have to shift it into neutral for it to start. I've read that it's some kind of cable adjustment, or maybe replacement of some interlock switch (or maybe - unless I'm thinking of a different transmission - a worn "rooster" cam on the shift part).
2. Earlier this year (prior to the P1776 CEL - maybe sometime in February?), I had the old "tiny evap leak" which I ended up replacing my gas cap, and after several drive cycles it went away - but when I had the P1776 code happen, that evap code also popped up again (but I'm not sure if it was just the old code that never got really cleared, or what).

Also - if the "real fix" is "get rid of that transmission and go with a manual" - don't hesitate to tell me that. I don't like that option - It can't be a cheap retrofit, plus needing to learn to drive it (and I'm not sure how I'd get it home) - but I really want to know what my best options would be...

Thank you, everyone. Have a great weekend.
 
Check out this product, installed it on my jeep and keeps the tranny alive!

Derale 20561 Jeep Wrangler Direct Fit Automatic Transmission Cooler,Black​

 
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This code has thrown on me twice, and both time were under similar conditions. I've read a lot about this code, and owners seem to either "throw parts and money at it, plus a prayer or two" - and they may get lucky, or they may not - or they're of the "get rid of it and go with a manual" camp.

Ideally, I don't want to land in either camp, because $$$ (and for the latter, I can't drive stick - though I have a friend who says he'll teach me if I need it) - so I'm wondering if anyone knows of a real solution? I'm going to be taking my Jeep in to the mechanic on Monday, in the hopes that maybe a solution can be found, but if one if already known, I'll pass it on to him.

In my particular case, I feel it it heat related. In both cases (one last year sometime in May, and one this year around the same time frame), I was driving a fair distance, somewhat "non-stop" (I'd go someplace on the other side of Phoenix and back home), it was 100+ degrees out, and I had my AC running. The first time it happened last year, based on things I read, was that the "simple thing to check" was my fluid level. Mine was low, so I added some, and didn't have another problem, until the second time. This time, my fluid level was a little low (so I topped it up), but in the process of doing that, I had parked under a tree, and had spent about a half-hour between the code read, refill and reading about the issue. So my engine and everything had a chance to cool down some. Everything was fine again, until I got close to home, when it threw the code again, and so I pulled over, turned it off for 30 seconds turned it back on, then was able to drive the rest of the way home without an issue.

I haven't driven it since then (I don't really have any places I need to go), but I would like to get back out there, but I don't want that code popping up all the time (if for no other reasons than for passing emissions).

My plan is this: Take it to my mechanic, and see if they can figure it out (they've done magic for me in the past) - but regardless of whether they are able to or not, I intend to have them install a decent transmission cooler, plus a larger pan (with a drain plug). I'm also thinking maybe getting that one shift kit installed, too (I forget the name/brand/model - but it's been rec'd by several people - I probably have notes on it somewhere).

A couple of other things about my TJ that I've noticed - which I am not sure are related or not (my gut says maybe on one, and no on the other - but I don't really know):

1. Ever since I've had my TJ, there have been random times where, when I go to start it up, it does nothing - I have to shift it into neutral for it to start. I've read that it's some kind of cable adjustment, or maybe replacement of some interlock switch (or maybe - unless I'm thinking of a different transmission - a worn "rooster" cam on the shift part).
2. Earlier this year (prior to the P1776 CEL - maybe sometime in February?), I had the old "tiny evap leak" which I ended up replacing my gas cap, and after several drive cycles it went away - but when I had the P1776 code happen, that evap code also popped up again (but I'm not sure if it was just the old code that never got really cleared, or what).

Also - if the "real fix" is "get rid of that transmission and go with a manual" - don't hesitate to tell me that. I don't like that option - It can't be a cheap retrofit, plus needing to learn to drive it (and I'm not sure how I'd get it home) - but I really want to know what my best options would be...

Thank you, everyone. Have a great weekend.

Never openly admit you can't drive a stick :) The advice above is true - need a tranny cooler either way.
B&M 70624 Transmission Cooler fits in through the headlight hole and installs super quick and easy. It also includes all the hardware/brackets and hose you'll need....for around $100.
 
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Cool it! That's the #1 killer of autos.

I wouldn't really consider the manual swap unless you're willing to do a good bit of work. I'm in the middle of the reverse (manual to auto) and it's very involved and requires some luck with how you and a donor rig are set up.
 
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This code is not related to high fluid/transmission temps. Your L/R solenoid switch valve is stuck, or at least not moving when it should. It could be gummed up from lack of service, have an electrical issue, or a failed solenoid. I assume you know how to check the fluid level, but low fluid can also create an issue. It’s fine to fill to the hot high mark.

If you take it to a shop, they’ll likely recommend replacing the solenoid pack. Before going there, start with the easy things like checking that the transmission relay terminals are clean. Next, and more involved, check the terminals at the solenoid pack connector to make sure they’re not wet or corroded and that you have battery voltage at the connector - The solenoid pack relies on battery power. Lastly, replace the fluid and filter. At a minimum, the 42RLE should be serviced every 60,000 miles.
 
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Never openly admit you can't drive a stick :) The advice above is true - need a tranny cooler either way.
B&M 70624 Transmission Cooler fits in through the headlight hole and installs super quick and easy. It also includes all the hardware/brackets and hose you'll need....for around $100.

Most of the ones I found were passive like this one, but I'll keep it in mind - that said, the Derale cooler mentioned, while a more complex install (and more expensive) - seems like it might be a nice option to drop the cash on...
 
Cool it! That's the #1 killer of autos.

I wouldn't really consider the manual swap unless you're willing to do a good bit of work. I'm in the middle of the reverse (manual to auto) and it's very involved and requires some luck with how you and a donor rig are set up.

Well - it wouldn't be me doing the work, as I don't have the skills or the tools. But if it takes a lot of work (which I imagine it would) - that won't be cheap, on top of everything else. So it's staying as the option of last resort...thank you for the advice.
 
This code is not related to high fluid/transmission temps. Your L/R solenoid switch valve is stuck, or at least not moving when it should. It could be gummed up from lack of service, have an electrical issue, or a failed solenoid. I assume you know how to check the fluid level, but low fluid can also create an issue. It’s fine to fill to the hot high mark.

If you take it to a shop, they’ll likely recommend replacing the solenoid pack. Before going there, start with the easy things like checking that the transmission relay terminals are clean. Next, and more involved, check the terminals at the solenoid pack connector to make sure they’re not wet or corroded and that you have battery voltage at the connector - The solenoid pack relies on battery power. Lastly, replace the fluid and filter. At a minimum, the 42RLE should be serviced every 60,000 miles.

The thing that makes me suspect heat is only because that's when I've seen the issue - like I noted, I've only seen it twice, and there was virtually a 1 year gap between both incidents. I bought the Jeep in 2017 - it's very possible that it could need the solenoid pack, as I don't know the service history, but one of the first things I did after I got it was take it to my mechanic for a front-to-back, top-to-bottom check (when I bought it, it had a main-seal seepage I could see, so I had that fixed - not a drop or leak since). One thing I did have done was a transmission check and service (among many other things).

Unfortunately, I don't have time to check the other things you mentioned, as it's going in to the shop tomorrow. But I'll mention those things to them; I've found them to be responsive to such input (as I trust them, and only them, with another vehicle I own and they've serviced, my 1999 Isuzu VehiCROSS). They are a full-service, mom-n-pop kind of shop - everything from basic maintenance for regular vehicles, to frame-up restorations - I always love to see what they have up on the racks (yeah, they let me in the shop area - their insurance company would sh-t a brick if they knew) around the Barrett Jackson show and auction we have here.

...and as I noted, I had the transmission serviced when I got it, and it's still well under 60k since.

Thank you for the advice - it's very appreciated.
 
Did you ever get this resolved?

You should install an AutoMeter transmission temp gauge and sender. You’ll need a new pan with a bung brazed in for the sender, but that would tell you what your temps are, and heat kills autos.
 
Have one already. Not helpful.

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