Where to support while dropping transfer case skid plate?

So many people to reply to, ha. I’m the third owner. There was quite a bit of rust in the spacer, but I wire wheeled it down. The frame was in excellent shape. I’m sure there is some rust between the spacer and frame that I need to get to. I may give it a shot this winter, is it better to use a power ratchet for the bolts or good old fashioned leverage?
I'd say an impact driver would be easier but more likely to tear it up if it doesn't want to come out.
 
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I'd say an impact driver would be easier but more likely to tear it up if it doesn't want to come out.
Yeah I have tried to loosen them with a large wrench and they don’t budge. However, I didn’t put much into it. At this point I am sure there is some surface rust, but nothing major. I won’t drive on salty roads. I will more than likely wait to tackle it until I am getting rid of the tcase drop.
 
Yeah I have tried to loosen them with a large wrench and they don’t budge. However, I didn’t put much into it. At this point I am sure there is some surface rust, but nothing major. I won’t drive on salty roads. I will more than likely wait to tackle it until I am getting rid of the tcase drop.
They shouldn't be that tight. Torque spec is 55lbs.
 
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The way to get seized skidplate bolts out is by heating them nearly red hot, then they'll spin out fairly easily. I'm not talking heat-gun hot, I'm talking torch hot. I had 4-5 seized tcase Rubicon Express allen-head bolts that I welded big nuts to so I could use a big socket to remove them. While still smoking hot, I braced myself to pull hard with the wrench to break the first bolt free. No need, all of them came off with essentially no force required. I was shocked, I could have removed them with a 1/4" drive ratchet. It was just the heat from the welding that broke them free, a torch can do the same thing.
 
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The way to get seized skidplate bolts out is by heating them nearly red hot, then they'll spin out fairly easily. I'm not talking heat-gun hot, I'm talking torch hot. I had 4-5 seized tcase Rubicon Express allen-head bolts that I welded big nuts to so I could use a big socket to remove them. While still smoking hot, I braced myself to pull hard with the wrench to break the first bolt free. No need, all of them came off with essentially no force required. I was shocked, I could have removed them with a 1/4" drive ratchet. It was just the heat from the welding that broke them free, a torch can do the same thing.

That's one of my fears. The Nth degree also uses flush Allen heads though as I understand it the bolts are of a higher quality more strengthened metal. Don't quote me on that, though. I'm the king of opening up a can of worms when starting a seemingly easy afternoon project.
 
The way to get seized skidplate bolts out is by heating them nearly red hot, then they'll spin out fairly easily. I'm not talking heat-gun hot, I'm talking torch hot. I had 4-5 seized tcase Rubicon Express allen-head bolts that I welded big nuts to so I could use a big socket to remove them. While still smoking hot, I braced myself to pull hard with the wrench to break the first bolt free. No need, all of them came off with essentially no force required. I was shocked, I could have removed them with a 1/4" drive ratchet. It was just the heat from the welding that broke them free, a torch can do the same thing.

thanks Jerry I will give that a shot when I go to tackle it! I still need to get my pesky plate off by the mirror!
@ejay I have the same luck
 
That's one of my fears. The Nth degree also uses flush Allen heads though as I understand it the bolts are of a higher quality more strengthened metal. Don't quote me on that, though. I'm the king of opening up a can of worms when starting a seemingly easy afternoon project.
Yeah the RE bolts were cheap, shitty, and unhardened. I replaced them all with good quality hardened bolts from my local hardware specialty store. What a difference, though I still didn't like using an allen wrench on them.
 
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Was thing enough to support both the transfer case and tranny without the skid?

Nothing catastrophic happened to me, but it probably would have been better to put the one jack on the transfer case housing instead of the output shaft, like @taylormade73 said above:

I would never place any significant weight on the driveshaft or output shaft/yokes because of the seal around the output shaft is receiving some of that load.

Also make sure you support the jacks with some boards if you're in the dirt :)
 
Nothing catastrophic happened to me, but it probably would have been better to put the one jack on the transfer case housing instead of the output shaft, like @taylormade73 said above:



Also make sure you support the jacks with some boards if you're in the dirt :)
Thank you! On my 05 Unlimited the transfer case skid pretty much covers all of the transfer case, so once I get that skid lowered I will place the second stand there.
 
I hope I didnt do too much damage to my wifes jeep, my dumb ass neighbor said you didnt need it and he seemed like a very knowledgable dude, so we drove without it for like a day and I heard bad sounds and I knew right away that asshole was wrong and that i was an idiot for listening to him. ANyway I got it all back together and everything SEEMS fine but who knows, I do plan to take the skid plate off again soon to check the transmission fluid I cant really get to it otherwise. Ill use a jack this time, but man I really hope there isnt perm damamge somewhere anything I should look for, it did look like the drive shaft seal is "leaking" but very little and also both differential "tubes" have come out