Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

I'll post some pictures of the variety pack of gussets I ordered in a bit. My harness bar was going to welded to bolt on clamps. I don't know WHY but it's how my SXS was setup so I was just copying the idea.

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And a GR harness bar to weld onto this.

Yes I see what you are saying about the frame tie in being solid at the frame and then ability to jiggle a little at the body. I'll mock one up and see what everyone's thoughts are. I'd also thought about trying to get some weld in threaded inserts to make the plate at the frame removeable but I don't know that it's worth the trouble or needed.
 
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i made this a while back and have just not taken action to make it so yet, not sure if it qualifies as any better, just different.

i used 2 piece interlocking clamps on the A to B bar or it'd not be removable without cutting. ya clamps on harness bars are used quite often and i don't see an issue, the tube clamps are likely stronger than the tube they hold.

cage tie in.PNG
 
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someguysjeep said:
i made this a while back and have just not taken action to make it so yet, not sure if it qualifies as any better, just different.

i used 2 piece interlocking clamps on the A to B bar or it'd not be removable without cutting. ya clamps on harness bars are used quite often and i don't see an issue, the tube clamps are likely stronger than the tube they hold.

View attachment 320270
Click to expand...

Yep I like that. If I hadn't already bought the GR kit I might have tried to make that work.
 
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hard to explain and make understandable but my A pillar is the drop off the header and a foot pad, it's 2pcs., no way to get a big footpad through this dash. i took redundant steps to make sure the joint cannot come apart. it's sleeved and clamped and has some fat tacks that would have to be cut.
 
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someguysjeep said:
hard to explain and make understandable but my A pillar is the drop off the header and a foot pad, it's 2pcs., no way to get a big footpad through this dash. i took redundant steps to make sure the joint cannot come apart. it's sleeved and clamped and has some fat tacks that would have to be cut.
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If I was starting over I would just get a custom cage built with thru the dash bars and stuff. But I've got this PS trail cage as they call it so it'll work until I flop it BAD and then need a whole new cage and tub....
 
Wildman said:
Yep I like that. If I hadn't already bought the GR kit I might have tried to make that work.
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i have no evidence of the GR part not being capable, and i'm not trying to sway you away from it. i'm just not a fan of where the movement could potentially occur.
 
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someguysjeep said:
i have no evidence of the GR part not being capable, and i'm not trying to sway you away from it. i'm just not a fan of where the movement can occur.
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Well I think I can mount it solid at the frame and put the joint at the tub. But I'll look at it today and see what I can finger out.
 
even my little drawing could be flawed 3/4" to 1" of rubber would be a nice fat vibe buffer but it may also allow the brace to be weak if the durometer is not stiff enough,

and maybe it could just be a 1/4" of material so the limit is tighter. but then is a 1/4" of material enough dampening?
 
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someguysjeep said:
even my little drawing could be flawed 3/4" to 1" of rubber would be a nice fat vibe buffer but it may also allow the brace to be weak if the durometer is not stiff enough,

and maybe it could just be a 1/4" of material so the limit is tighter. but then is a 1/4" of material enough dampening?
Click to expand...

You're getting into stuff that is beyond my understanding.
 
So just a quick visual of where everything mounts and it explains the reason for the bushing being mounted on the frame.

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That would be a big hangy down thing to get hung up on rocks.

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Being on the frame at least moves it away from as much chances of getting hung up.

Not totally sure I like either option and may have to table it for now. I'm sort of liking your idea more now that I've looked at this closely.
 
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i had almost forgotten about it until your post........ but i'll look around and see what i got to mock something up in the next few days. if i can make 2. 4 is no more difficult.

but weather is shit today so it will be tormw or tues b4 get to play with it under the jeep for fitting..
 
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Wildman said:
I'll post some pictures of the variety pack of gussets I ordered in a bit. My harness bar was going to welded to bolt on clamps. I don't know WHY but it's how my SXS was setup so I was just copying the idea.

View attachment 320269
And a GR harness bar to weld onto this.

Yes I see what you are saying about the frame tie in being solid at the frame and then ability to jiggle a little at the body. I'll mock one up and see what everyone's thoughts are. I'd also thought about trying to get some weld in threaded inserts to make the plate at the frame removeable but I don't know that it's worth the trouble or needed.
Click to expand...
I reused my old harness bar (Rock Hard 4x4) and was able to adapt it to my cage to fit the B hoop, GR has a harness rail, when I redo my harness bar I’ll make it attach further back so I can recline my seats more and be easier to put in and take out. If you’re installing fixed position seats it’s not gonna matter just mount it high enough so your shoulder straps have the proper angle..

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I got the removeable harness bar from GR since it was bent already.

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And I've got some drawings to mark onto the bar for notching it so I HOPE I can get it correctly done. And yes I have the fixed back MasterCraft seats so I don't need worry about reclining them just having as much room as possible to slide them back. I don't have LONG legs but with my right leg I need as much room as possible. It's all the little stuff that takes time.

I finally had to clean up my scrap metal pile so I could make more room in the garage. I think it's time to do a deep clean and get the Harley back outside so I have that space too. Then I can pull the engine and get all the welding in the engine bay finished.
 
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my seats are fixed back too, i set the slider all the way back and the seat just touches the bar at full slide. do a fitting and sit in there if you wanna be accurate to that 10* or less rule.
 
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DrDmoney said:
How are you mounting your belts to the floor/tub?
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me? currently they are secured to the rear deck behind the seats. the Cornbro's seats have an internal shoulder height cross member the straps have to go over. i assume it's to take some of the strain of the pull of the belts, if it works is another issue.

i have plans to modify the straps to the harness bar or at least over it, but have not gotten to it just yet. this works well enough to drive for breakin in the diff , but could be better.
 
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