Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

Only problem with that muffler is that it's a RACE muffler. So it's loud....

I've got to go measure my current cat but this might be the next option. Getting a cat that has the O2 port built into it.

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And then run a 1"-2" shorter muffler.
 
Current cat is 12" long but the pipe I have from the cat to the muffler is 6.5" long so this could be the fix. Might just order it first and see if I still need a new muffler. Other than some of these oval mufflers I could get offset inlet & outlet which would move it over some more too.

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I was able to find both the muffler & cat on Amazon so ordered them both. If I don't need the muffler I'll send it back but I think I'll end up using it.
The cat will be here NLT April 11 & muffler on April 14.
Next is to pull the front axle out and do all my final welding on it and then paint it. I've still got to install the Yukon hubs also.
Then I'll get it all painted up all nice & pretty so I can scratch it up.
Will be borrowing a trick from Blaine to run the front hard brake lines but will wait and see.

DAMN.... Once both axles are back under the rig it'll be time to run the air lines for the AiRock and then figure out where I'm going to mount my air tank. I only need a 1 gallon but depending on where I decide to put it I might got larger. Then it'll be time to pay attention to the interior. Install the seats, install the stereo & new speakers & amp plus sub-woofer. Install my storage boxes and odd & ends.
I'm sure there is a lot of stuff I haven't listed yet but Dang Nab there really is a light at the end of the tunnel.

Break in of the rear axle will take a while based on the recommendations of Carl from Jantz Engineering.
 
Looks like you found what needed. Just in case what I went with was less than 20”. Pretty sure they have others with less aggressive sounds.

https://spintechmufflers.com/6000-pro-street/

Thanks... Lead time for stainless steel is 4-6 weeks. And they don't show what the overall length is just the body length. But I'll keep them in mind if this doesn't work out.

Which hubs will you be running?

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSIWR0S/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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@B00mb00m been doing more reading and research about these rear brakes and after reading your one post about feathering the steering brakes got me thinking about using the line locks. So toying with the idea of just getting the parts now prior to plumbing the rear brakes in. One of my concerns is mounting the steering brakes as I've got other stuff that is going under the center console. And I'd thought about putting them up in front of the t-case shifter but then would it be a reach to get to them?
 
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@B00mb00m been doing more reading and research about these rear brakes and after reading your one post about feathering the steering brakes got me thinking about using the line locks. So toying with the idea of just getting the parts now prior to plumbing the rear brakes in. One of my concerns is mounting the steering brakes as I've got other stuff that is going under the center console. And I'd thought about putting them up in front of the t-case shifter but then would it be a reach to get to them?

I would run the line locks I think they’ll be quite useful like that. I definitely like being able to just grab and go with throttle and hand brake but the line locks will allow cool front digs probably even better than handles assuming they trap more braking pressure. The problem with the levers is their braking ability is not super great with JT brakes and those are daily decent sized brakes.
 
I would run the line locks I think they’ll be quite useful like that. I definitely like being able to just grab and go with throttle and hand brake but the line locks will allow cool front digs probably even better than handles assuming they trap more braking pressure. The problem with the levers is their braking ability is not super great with JT brakes and those are daily decent sized brakes.

OK I'll give a try. I can always add the levers later if I want. Thanks for the input. Do remember I have larger brakes in the rear. I wonder if there are different size steering brake cylinders?
 
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OK I'll give a try. I can always add the levers later if I want. Thanks for the input. Do remember I have larger brakes in the rear. I wonder if there are different size steering brake cylinders?
They were all a single size as far as I saw.
 
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They were all a single size as far as I saw.

OK
I haven't looked at them very much so didn't know. I just say them with a 3/4" bore I think it was.

From what I understand about the line lock it depends on how hard you are stepping on the brakes as to how much holding pressure you have.
My ex had a line lock on her CJ for the front brakes. So you could use it to hold when wiching or on hills. Step on the brake/depress the brake & hit the switch.
So this should work about the same. Apply the brake as I'm slowing down for a front dig/hit the switch for left or right rear brake and then power thru the dig.
 
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OK
I haven't looked at them very much so didn't know. I just say them with a 3/4" bore I think it was.

From what I understand about the line lock it depends on how hard you are stepping on the brakes as to how much holding pressure you have.
My ex had a line lock on her CJ for the front brakes. So you could use it to hold when wiching or on hills. Step on the brake/depress the brake & hit the switch.
So this should work about the same. Apply the brake as I'm slowing down for a front dig/hit the switch for left or right rear brake and then power thru the dig.

Shoots I might even add line locks later. I don’t think there’s any reason I couldn’t do handles and line locks.
 
Shoots I might even add line locks later. I don’t think there’s any reason I couldn’t do handles and line locks.

No you could add a line lock to your front brakes. I've thought about it. But I've got enough other things to finish first.

I'm working on cleaning up the front axle right now. It's rather muddy and has rust from where the paint has been removed.
 
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