The most I do is the 4 corners. No need to tie down the middle, where in the hell could it possibly go?
Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift
- Thread starter Wildman
- Start date
Patience pays off some of the time.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=141582091739
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=141582091739
This site contains affiliate links for which Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum may be compensated.
OP
OP
And I wouldn't have them until next week. I don't want to wait until then to work on the Jeep.
This site contains affiliate links for which Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum may be compensated.
Take a piece of tube, I use 1.25" square by .120 wall and cut it to length that matches the height of the tub just below the belt rail. Run that straight down to the concrete and bolt it to the tub as a down leg. That will stabilize the tub. Do that at both corners on the side of the tub knowing that you will need to move it later most likely to the back face.
OP
I'm not trying to be an ASS here I just don't have a supply of metal. But I do appreciate your advice on how you adress these issues. Please don't stop.
Yes they are and even when I entered my zip code in the shipping quote they are still not going to get here until Monday. It's all good as I have the d-rings already. It's money well spent as this way I won't have to worry about the Jeep fallin on me now.
You have all this tubing and other types of metal on hand. Compared to what it would cost me to go find it just having 6 d-rings so I can tie-down in the middle seems like it would be easier right now. I have to drive an hour one way to get metal unless I want to pay crazy prices and they don't have a lot in stock.
Yes they are and even when I entered my zip code in the shipping quote they are still not going to get here until Monday. It's all good as I have the d-rings already. It's money well spent as this way I won't have to worry about the Jeep fallin on me now.
You have all this tubing and other types of metal on hand. Compared to what it would cost me to go find it just having 6 d-rings so I can tie-down in the middle seems like it would be easier right now. I have to drive an hour one way to get metal unless I want to pay crazy prices and they don't have a lot in stock.
Last edited:
You are the one who commented that safety isn't cheap. Okay, like all things of importance, you get good, fast, cheap, pick any two to the exclusion of the third. You want it good and fast, it isn't going to be cheap. You want it good and cheap, it isn't going to be fast. You want it fast and cheap, it isn't going to be good.
No, I don't have all this tubing, metal, angle, etc. on hand. My metal supply is well over an hour away if I want to do a one stop shop. Not hard to figure out, just look up Industrial Metal Supply in Riverside and do directions from 92587-8997 and that will show you exactly how far I have to go.
I have some piddly suppliers closer. They rarely have what I need and if they do, it is twice as much as IMS.
OP
It's also one of the risks of sending your teenage daughter into town to go shopping for you. Can't take them back now since she can't find the receipt for the d-rings. Not a HUGE deal. Of course she didn't get nuts and washers for drive-in concrete bolts. Will have to get them tomorrow.
The concrete anchors I linked to have the nuts and washers with them in the box.
OP
Yes but the ones available at the hardware store don't come with nuts and washers.
OP
a break. I'm good if I can keep most of my weight off it.
OP
Jeep is strapped down and secured to the floor of my garage. Now to get back to working on the Jeep.
First thing is clean up from this project and then set the shock crossmember in place. Then I can cycle the suspension and see where it is going to hit.
After that will be to mount a tire and see how it fits as I cycle the suspension.
First thing is clean up from this project and then set the shock crossmember in place. Then I can cycle the suspension and see where it is going to hit.
After that will be to mount a tire and see how it fits as I cycle the suspension.
OP
@jjvw here it is stuffed to 7.5" compression between the spring pads. This sits pretty well and seems like about where I want to be. I still have tire clearance and the upper arms are just about to hit the tub. I guess I didn't hit them hard enough because I hardly put a dent in the tub.
And here is where the tire is sitting at full stuff.
And the upper arms.
I moved the upper spring pad forward a little bit and think it looks better here.
Still at 7.5" distance between the upper and lower spring pads.
And here is where the tire is sitting at full stuff.
And the upper arms.
I moved the upper spring pad forward a little bit and think it looks better here.
Still at 7.5" distance between the upper and lower spring pads.
How much up from ride height died that create? What happens when a tire is stuffed?
One thing I'm seeing if more up is desired, is that there is quite a bit of room to be regained if the factory upper mount goes away and you attach the upper bag plate thing directly to the frame.
What you have in stacked mounts is nothing more than the legacy of a bolt on kit. You are well past those constraints.
Again, this is contingent on what the tires allow and how far you are willing to keep cutting.
One thing I'm seeing if more up is desired, is that there is quite a bit of room to be regained if the factory upper mount goes away and you attach the upper bag plate thing directly to the frame.
What you have in stacked mounts is nothing more than the legacy of a bolt on kit. You are well past those constraints.
Again, this is contingent on what the tires allow and how far you are willing to keep cutting.
OP
I'll get those numbers in a minute. How much did you gain when you notched your upper pads? If I got rid of the upper spring pad I would have to figure out a mount for the adapter. IMHO it will just be easier to keep the pad.
Mount the adapter directly to the frame. Right now you're is suffering from the same thing Metalcloak's stupid spring design suffers from. Too much stacking results in lost up travel.
I'll get some measurements on mine to use for comparison. I don't know how much moving the upper and lower spring seats changed the ride height, but I can tell you that I am using a small spacer and Currie LJ coils on mine. Tox's thread on frame heights with my charts is what you really want to study.
