WRG winch lines, lets chat

1. I thought it seemed like a good idea in certain situations. But, I think I understand how it can be a problem or useless also when it's preinstalled and not removable. I like @hosejockey61 's idea of using a small piece of fire hose. So much so, that I'm headed to eBay to see if I can find a reasonably priced small piece.

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They work exactly as well as you are able to keep the hose section where you want it. Once the hose rolls over and the winch line falls off of it, they offer no protection.
 
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They work exactly as well as you are able to keep the hose section where you want it. Once the hose rolls over and the winch line falls off of it, they offer no protection.

You're thinking of using it differently than I do. Imagine an 18" piece of hose with a slit in it along the long size. Place the line inside the sleeve. The cotton jacket will catch on the rock while allowing the line to slide inside of it. We use edge protection similar to this in our rope rescues that are over an edge. Sure it can move, but if you get the line tensioned enough to hold it in place then it usually isn't a problem. To be clear though, I wouldn't winch over a rock edge as a first choice. Sometimes though it's the only choice.
 
You're thinking of using it differently than I do. Imagine an 18" piece of hose with a slit in it along the long size. Place the line inside the sleeve. The cotton jacket will catch on the rock while allowing the line to slide inside of it. We use edge protection similar to this in our rope rescues that are over an edge.
You are thinking exactly right.
 
You're thinking of using it differently than I do. Imagine an 18" piece of hose with a slit in it along the long size. Place the line inside the sleeve. The cotton jacket will catch on the rock while allowing the line to slide inside of it. We use edge protection similar to this in our rope rescues that are over an edge. Sure it can move, but if you get the line tensioned enough to hold it in place then it usually isn't a problem. To be clear though, I wouldn't winch over a rock edge as a first choice. Sometimes though it's the only choice.

That's how I'm thinking of it. It still isn't thick enough to really do what we need it to do.
 
Imagine an 18" piece of hose with a slit in it along the long size. Place the line inside the sleeve.

Do you have a picture of this setup? I'm having a hard time picturing it in my head. I was imagining a piece with a big enough to diameter to just slide it over a safety thimble/hook and just place it where you need it.
 
Do you have a picture of this setup? I'm having a hard time picturing it in my head. I was imagining a piece with a big enough to diameter to just slide it over a safety thimble/hook and just place it where you need it.

No different than splitting a length of fuel hose lengthwise to slip around a brake line or air line to protect it.
 
No different than splitting a length of fuel hose lengthwise to slip around a brake line or air line to protect it.

I see. I was overthinking it. In my mind I was thinking a slit as just a partial cut down the long side of the hose rather than the whole length of it.
 
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It does seem like a good idea to have something to protect the line from abrasion when needed, and having it already on the line seems like a good idea. My M8274-S came with one, and I kept it, but I really have nowhere near enough experience yet to form an opinion.
Lots of issues with tubular abrasion guards. If you size them tight to the line diameter, they are very hard to slide where you might want them to be. They also hang on the fairlead going in if you aren't using them and bunch up making a mess. That size also can NOT be pushed to where you want it, it has to be pulled and milked along. If you size them larger, they bunch up easier and make an even bigger mess. You also can NOT see that the rope is wearing through the guard at a high point load scenario so your line is getting damaged inside the guard. It got to the point in our recoveries where we just started out right away slicing them off the lines because they are such a pain in the ass.
Yes, I do understand it. Pretty obvious to me - anyone who thinks that a screw of that size is capable of a supporting the load on a winch line really shouldn't be doing recoveries.
The screw has a valid function which is to provide enough resistance to the line that eventually friction takes over when there are enough wraps on the drum to handle the full winch load. They are problematic in that the line under load on that side of the drum can sink down through the wraps and just wipe the attachment point right off. We ran into several and could not figure out what was happening until I was able to watch it happen on a hard pull one day. After that, I'll never do it that way again.
I have no problem with that.
I'll see if I can mock one up and get pics to better explain.
Yes, I do understand it. Again, pretty obvious to me.
Seems obvious, it isn't.
 
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Per usual, anything I do will be slightly different than what is commonly accepted as correct and useful. When it comes to winch lines, there is so much bullshit out there that I fear this may be a tougher row to hoe than I suspect if the education is not quick and easily absorbed. So, a few questions for folks to see if this is really something I want to try and do.

1-How many believe that a pre installed piece of tubular nylon sleeve to be used as an abrasion guard has value and should be included?

2-There are lots of ways to anchor line to the winch drum, how many understand that the style with the small screw into the side of the drum actually does NOT anchor the line?

3-How many are okay with the slip knot and over wrapped tail style of anchoring?

4-How many understand that overfilling the drum with extra line has the potential to blow up your winch
1) I read in a earlier post on why you dislike the abrasion guard and I have to agree with you on them being a pain every time you use the winch. I have found very few times when I am pulling a line across a rock that would cause damage to the line, I would prefer something to put on the line when needed at the point of abrasion. I have to wonder if it’s strong enough for the winch line to not cut through it would it cause wear to the line or would it eliminate jagged edges and snag points to protect the line
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2) I understand the small screw attaching my rope is not an anchor and it bothers me every time I use my winch. I know the attachment point is just to provide tension and the friction of the line is what anchors the line. I am looking for a good way to secure my line.

3) I would like to see a picture of this style, I like the idea of wrapping the line over the tail. TRE shows something like that on their website but they use a bracket which could damage the line.

4) I never thought of this now that you mentioned it is see if the line spooled up it would just push the winch apart. I have a line a vendor gave me so I will need to check the length before I install it.

MrBlane, Thank You for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. Winching can be a dangerous task and we need to limit the risks as much as possible. I realized the value of a thimble (I have a shackle type end) on the end of the rope last week when I was pulling a truck up an obstacle if the shackle had broken in the middle a big piece of metal would be headed my way. I will be changing over to a thimble. I also had to pick my gray soft shackle up out of the dirt, it got left on the bumper and fell off a bit up the trail, I’m glad I got out to spot someone. Bright colors are the way to go. What are your thoughts on these attachment methods ?

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I run a 10 foot tubular sleeve that never leaves the hook end of my rope it is my warning indicator when spooling the line in, which in my application is a necessity. And in no way would I expect you to have to cater to.

All I can say is I can tell you many stories about failures over the years. It is also the reason Warn went to a cast drum on the ATV winches.

That seems to be the most practical for any winch that does not have an in drum anchoring system.


It cannot be overstated. Overfilling not only leads to mechanical failures it can also decrease the actual efficiency of the winch. A winches maximum pulling power is with as much line off the drum so you are doing yourself no favors by adding additional layers of rope to the winch. Synthetic rope has more of a tendency to “stack” on itself leading to a faster change of drum diameter making your 8k winch a 2k winch pretty quick. If folks took the time to consider what the typical distance they winch they would find that 85’ of line is more than adequate.
 
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I run a 10 foot tubular sleeve that never leaves the hook end of my rope it is my warning indicator when spooling the line in, which in my application is a necessity. And in no way would I expect you to have to cater to.
What if I build you a line with last 10 feet a different color, can you dump the sleeve then?
All I can say is I can tell you many stories about failures over the years. It is also the reason Warn went to a cast drum on the ATV winches.

That seems to be the most practical for any winch that does not have an in drum anchoring system.


It cannot be overstated. Overfilling not only leads to mechanical failures it can also decrease the actual efficiency of the winch. A winches maximum pulling power is with as much line off the drum so you are doing yourself no favors by adding additional layers of rope to the winch. Synthetic rope has more of a tendency to “stack” on itself leading to a faster change of drum diameter making your 8k winch a 2k winch pretty quick. If folks took the time to consider what the typical distance they winch they would find that 85’ of line is more than adequate.
With the length that Warn now sends out with their synthetic, it is obvious that they forgot to do a conversion factor when switching from 5/16" steel to 3/8" synthetic plus the additional bulk of their sleeve. They are ridiculously overfull.
 
With the length that Warn now sends out with their synthetic, it is obvious that they forgot to do a conversion factor when switching from 5/16" steel to 3/8" synthetic plus the additional bulk of their sleeve. They are ridiculously overfull.

This is where my Jeep is now. Got my old m8000 refurbed with them and they gave a good discount on synthetic and I took up the offer without realizing it is too long. And the thimble was attached, so it's a little bit of work to get it correct. It's on my list of things to attend though.
 
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On the synthetic line I put on my quads winch, I used an eye spliced on the end of the rope with a clove hitch around the drum and an extra hitch over the eye after I ran the line through the eye. It can’t come off and it is a low laying friction knot around the drum. It cant come off the drum.

The knot looks like this; (demonstrated with rope, not a synthetic winch line)

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What if I build you a line with last 10 feet a different color, can you dump the sleeve then?
Yes
With the length that Warn now sends out with their synthetic, it is obvious that they forgot to do a conversion factor when switching from 5/16" steel to 3/8" synthetic plus the additional bulk of their sleeve. They are ridiculously overfull.
I remember when Warn wanted nothing to do with synthetic rope and then they caved into all the internet nonsense. And their track record after that has been pretty bad. From trying to market the most expensive rope ever conceived, to dropping the roller with ATV winches knowing full well you cannot use a hawse with a snowplow.

When the 85' line they offered was still domestic and you ditched the sleeve was about right but the current offering is not. There is just something about it that it just doesn't lay on the drum like it should.
 
Per usual, anything I do will be slightly different than what is commonly accepted as correct and useful. When it comes to winch lines, there is so much bullshit out there that I fear this may be a tougher row to hoe than I suspect if the education is not quick and easily absorbed. So, a few questions for folks to see if this is really something I want to try and do.

1-How many believe that a pre installed piece of tubular nylon sleeve to be used as an abrasion guard has value and should be included?
Now I know it does not.
2-There are lots of ways to anchor line to the winch drum, how many understand that the style with the small screw into the side of the drum actually does NOT anchor the line?
Now I know.
3-How many are okay with the slip knot and over wrapped tail style of anchoring?
Ok by me.
4.Yup.

You bring it to market, I'll buy it. Found a couple minor flaws in my steel cable on the Warn Power Plant so might be the time to go with more of your goodies.

I could make nearly all my replies here "Now I know".
 
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On the synthetic line I put on my quads winch, I used an eye spliced on the end of the rope with a clove hitch around the drum and an extra hitch over the eye after I ran the line through the eye. It can’t come off and it is a low laying friction knot around the drum. It cant come off the drum.

The knot looks like this; (demonstrated with rope, not a synthetic winch line)

View attachment 356981

A clove hitch is a great knot. Just make sure you have the working end oriented the right way to keep it in line with the correct rotation of the drum. Can't believe it never crossed my mind to use that knot with as much as we use it at work.
 
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A clove hitch is a great knot. Just make sure you have the working end oriented the right way to keep it in line with the correct rotation of the drum. Can't believe it never crossed my mind to use that knot with as much as we use it at work.

Yep, we use it in rigging operations all the time as well.
 
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