Yakima Roof Rack Setup on TJ Hardtop

EJD

TJ Overlander
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
1,965
Location
Oregon Coast
Ok, so my main reason for going with this setup was because I have a few cross-country road trips planned and this seemed to be the best thing for me. I go with Yakima because I have always used and liked their stuff, is good quality, and setup is self explanatory for the most part. It is also a little expensive so there is a downside to going this route. (I used a bunch of gift cards I had towards the cost so it wasn't that bad for me in the end).

For this setup I used:
Also so folks know there are other variations of the this hardtop setup by using one of Yakima's Track Kits which require different components.

For my specific setup I was going to be using a RocketBox Pro 14 with a 40" crossbar spread (I did this for the widest possible footprint and load dispersion), and would be mounting my Landing Pads in a fixed location. So as people know the TJ Hardtop has a "taper" to it front to back, so I chose to mount my RocketBox to the Crossbars with the Towers and Landing Pads attached. That way you can basically set the entire completed roof rack on the Hardtop, then center/adjust the towers+landing pads to the exact place you wish before its permanently done.

IMG_5869.JPG


(One nice thing about the TJ Hardtop is that it has these 6 grooves molded into the top, the 2 outermost grooves are too far out to use as a guideline for centering and not where you want to be drilling through. Of the middle 4 grooves that all look the same, use the outer 2 as you can see in my pictures). Measure off those grooves the distance you wish for idea roof thickness and Landing Pad placement. Make sure you stay away from any seams that may be on your Hardtop especially on the inside of the roof and towards the rear.

Once you have the towers+landing pads spread apart on both crossbars where you want and everything has been centered, I drew an outline around each Landing Pad with a pencil. Then from the top there are spots to mark 2 holes in each one, you color that like a bubble sheet. Then remove the entire Roof Rack from the Hardtop and you are left with 4 footprints. Those footprints are where you will now permanently mount the Landing Pad 6's. You drill through each of the 2 circles you've made on each footprint, so 8 total holes.

IMG_5867.JPG
IMG_5868.JPG

IMG_5870.JPG

IMG_5872.JPG

IMG_5874.JPG


With all 8 holes drilled out you can then apply Black Loctite around them all and fully complete the Landing Pad install. Once they are all bolted down and snug, you simply lock in the SkyLine Towers and your base Roof Rack is done. All the basic install info with generic pictures are included in the links above.

IMG_5875.JPG


Weather guards are included to cap off the Landing Pads for if/when the Roof Rack is not needed or not being used at that time. They also give a nice finished look, and protect the hardware and seals from the elements.

IMG_5876.JPG


Here are a few shots of the final base Roof Rack setup.

IMG_5877.JPG

IMG_5886.JPG

IMG_5884.JPG

IMG_5885.JPG


And last but not least, a shot of the RocketBox Pro 14 mounted and fully loaded up on its 1st cross-country move fro FL to NY.

IMG_5977.JPG


Surprisingly no noticeable decrease in mileage on that 1400 mile trip (though i'm sure there was some). I had no problem hitting speeds of 75-80mph with this up there, and did really well. I was very impressed. It rained a ton on the drive and nothing leaked through the roof, no water got inside the box, and it couldn't have gone smoother.

The entire roof rack setup I have weighs in at 50lbs total with all 4 components I have here, and I had a good 75lbs of gear inside the box. So 125lbs total on the TJ's Hardtop across the country is confirmed to say the least.

Any questions, please feel free to ask.
 
Wow, awesome write-up! What did you end up paying for the all of it? I know Yakima / Thule are expensive racks, but I've had them on vehicles in the past, and they really are worth the money.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DETOUR and EJD
Wow, awesome write-up! What did you end up paying for the all of it? I know Yakima / Thule are expensive racks, but I've had them on vehicles in the past, and they really are worth the money.
Thanks Chris!
They are expensive but I like the clean look, low profile, and the ability to lock everything up with 1 key for all my Yakima products. I know its not an option for everyone but for my situation is worked out great, I had a ton a store credit on Amazon and used them towards a bunch of the parts, and my dad got me the box for a birthday pres, so I made out good there.

I liked the box instead of the basket because I snowboard, so this holds 4 snowboards or 6 sets of skis plus gear, and I have a new baby girl so I can collapse a stroller or pack and play or whatever, toss it up there lock it and roll out with everything being secure and waterproof. Also for camp gear and road trips this works out great too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shamu
Thanks Chris!
They are expensive but I like the clean look, low profile, and the ability to lock everything up with 1 key for all my Yakima products. I know its not an option for everyone but for my situation is worked out great, I had a ton a store credit on Amazon and used them towards a bunch of the parts, and my dad got me the box for a birthday pres, so I made out good there.

I liked the box instead of the basket because I snowboard, so this holds 4 snowboards or 6 sets of skis plus gear, and I have a new baby girl so I can collapse a stroller or pack and play or whatever, toss it up there lock it and roll out with everything being secure and waterproof. Also for camp gear and road trips this works out great too.

Oh, I agree completely. When it comes to roof racks, I wouldn't go with any other brand other than Yakima or Thule (seems like they are identical too). They build really high quality parts, that's for sure. We had one of those boxes on our family car when I was growing up. We would go skiing as a family all the time, and you really can't beat those as a storage option for skis / snowboards.

BTW, edited your original post with the direct links to the PDF install instructions, and the Amazon links. Hope you don't mind!
 
  • Like
Reactions: EJD
Oh, I agree completely. When it comes to roof racks, I wouldn't go with any other brand other than Yakima or Thule (seems like they are identical too). They build really high quality parts, that's for sure. We had one of those boxes on our family car when I was growing up. We would go skiing as a family all the time, and you really can't beat those as a storage option for skis / snowboards.

BTW, edited your original post with the direct links to the PDF install instructions, and the Amazon links. Hope you don't mind!
I don't mind at all. Thanks for that, hopefully it helps some others as I believe the write-up might be the first of its kind.
One of the hardest things about pulling the trigger on this setup is feeling confident that drilling through your Hardtop is the right move and you have the ability to do the install cleanly. When I was exploring this as an option there was nothing on this specific to mounting Roof Racks onto TJ Hardtops.

I should also note that some people may want to search their local Craigslist for the individual components, I often see many crossbars and towers on there for cheap, so one would only have to then buy the specific Landing Pads or Track Kit.
 
I don't mind at all. Thanks for that, hopefully it helps some others as I believe the write-up might be the first of its kind.
One of the hardest things about pulling the trigger on this setup is feeling confident that drilling through your Hardtop is the right move and you have the ability to do the install cleanly. When I was exploring this as an option there was nothing on this specific to mounting Roof Racks onto TJ Hardtops.

I should also note that some people may want to search their local Craigslist for the individual components, I often see many crossbars and towers on there for cheap, so one would only have to then buy the specific Landing Pads or Track Kit.

X2 on local Craigslist. I always seem to find Yakima and Thule stuff on there.

You're right, drilling through the hard top is by far the scariest part. However, I think your idea of assembling the rack, then putting it on the hard top, tracing the mounts, then drilling... Well that would be exactly how I would do it, since I wouldn't want to mess up!
 
  • Like
Reactions: EJD
Nice job and instructions. May be a dumb question but do you think it would be strong enough to rig up a pully system in the garage ceiling and use the crossbars to support the weight of the top to remove/suspend it?
 
Nice job and instructions. May be a dumb question but do you think it would be strong enough to rig up a pully system in the garage ceiling and use the crossbars to support the weight of the top to remove/suspend it?

Only way I would test that out is if you used some sort of metal cross braces on the inside of the hard top where the bolts were going through. Maybe I'm wrong though. Perhaps some large fender washers on the bolt heads would do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EJD
That was my thought- the bolts would pull right through. You could prob do a nice looking piece of aluminum plate under each set of screws to strengthen those points.

That’s what I was thinking. Maybe an aluminum cross brace or something. Just to be safe...
 
Awesome!! I’m looking for exactly that for work!

Maybe being able to add something like this...

2a190279bf7fba9c5b810973eeb8b103.jpg


Now to find the time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2005 RHD TJ Sport
2010 BMW 528xi
 
Nice job and instructions. May be a dumb question but do you think it would be strong enough to rig up a pully system in the garage ceiling and use the crossbars to support the weight of the top to remove/suspend it?
I actually did have the idea of adding a 2nd set of Landing Pads on the underside of the roof as well as on top, they would share the same holes, have the same load bearing footprint, and all you would have to do is get longer bolts and different nuts. Then theoretically you would be able to lift up on the crossbars as much as the same amount of weight the rack is capable of supporting.
 
Last edited:
  • Love
Reactions: Kenneth G Zinis
Really nice setup! Thanks for this write up. I plan on doing the same thing. I also snowboard and have been looking for a good storage solution for them. This seems like the perfect solution! I don't want something that is going to hinder my ability to take off the top when I would like to do that.

What kind of liner is that on the inside of your top?
 
  • Like
Reactions: EJD and Chris
Really nice setup! Thanks for this write up. I plan on doing the same thing. I also snowboard and have been looking for a good storage solution for them. This seems like the perfect solution! I don't want something that is going to hinder my ability to take off the top when I would like to do that.

What kind of liner is that on the inside of your top?
Thanks! & no prob!

I wasn't able to find any write up on this setup so it was the perfect opportunity and hopefully help someone else out. I really love the setup so far and everything has been holding up great, i've done 2 major cross country moves with it and it does its thing up there. Its like a roof-top trunk.

Also yes like @Chris linked, it's sun mesh but mine is a spiderwebshade brand is all. They are both equally amazing at what they do. Surprised you don't have one down in SoCal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
I've been looking at the Yakima racks with both the track option or just using landing pads like OP did. Does anyone have any opinions on the pros and cons of one setup over the other or is it just personal preference? I've seen some posts about the track setup adding strength/distributing weight across the hard top but I don't know how valid that is.
 
I think it's just personal preference @DaveCG. I can't imagine that the track option distributes weight any differently.
 
I've been looking at the Yakima racks with both the track option or just using landing pads like OP did. Does anyone have any opinions on the pros and cons of one setup over the other or is it just personal preference? I've seen some posts about the track setup adding strength/distributing weight across the hard top but I don't know how valid that is.
First off, it matters on what your trying to mount up there.

If your primary use will be a rack accessory like a cargo box/basket or if you want just the base rack alone (meaning only crossbars with no accessories), I would go with a fixed mount like the Landing Pad 6's. If your primary use will be for kayak mounts, ski mounts, bike mounts, etc, you may want to get one of the Track Kits. They will give you the adjustability for various arrangements.

Track Kits cost more too, so no need to spend more money if you don't have/need to.
Track Kits require you drill 18 total holes into your hardtop. The Landing Pads only require 8.
Track Kits weigh 20lbs. Landing Pads weigh under 2lbs. (Keep in mind the TJ hardtop has a weight load capacity, so no need to add more weight to the roof than necessary).

Believe me, I weighed every pro and con for my needs.
 
Ok, so my main reason for going with this setup was because I have a few cross-country road trips planned and this seemed to be the best thing for me. I go with Yakima because I have always used and liked their stuff, is good quality, and setup is self explanatory for the most part. It is also a little expensive so there is a downside to going this route. (I used a bunch of gift cards I had towards the cost so it wasn't that bad for me in the end).

For this setup I used:
Also so folks know there are other variations of the this hardtop setup by using one of Yakima's Track Kits which require different components.

For my specific setup I was going to be using a RocketBox Pro 14 with a 40" crossbar spread (I did this for the widest possible footprint and load dispersion), and would be mounting my Landing Pads in a fixed location. So as people know the TJ Hardtop has a "taper" to it front to back, so I chose to mount my RocketBox to the Crossbars with the Towers and Landing Pads attached. That way you can basically set the entire completed roof rack on the Hardtop, then center/adjust the towers+landing pads to the exact place you wish before its permanently done.

View attachment 22950

(One nice thing about the TJ Hardtop is that it has these 6 grooves molded into the top, the 2 outermost grooves are too far out to use as a guideline for centering and not where you want to be drilling through. Of the middle 4 grooves that all look the same, use the outer 2 as you can see in my pictures). Measure off those grooves the distance you wish for idea roof thickness and Landing Pad placement. Make sure you stay away from any seams that may be on your Hardtop especially on the inside of the roof and towards the rear.

Once you have the towers+landing pads spread apart on both crossbars where you want and everything has been centered, I drew an outline around each Landing Pad with a pencil. Then from the top there are spots to mark 2 holes in each one, you color that like a bubble sheet. Then remove the entire Roof Rack from the Hardtop and you are left with 4 footprints. Those footprints are where you will now permanently mount the Landing Pad 6's. You drill through each of the 2 circles you've made on each footprint, so 8 total holes.

View attachment 22938View attachment 22939
View attachment 22940
View attachment 22941
View attachment 22942

With all 8 holes drilled out you can then apply Black Loctite around them all and fully complete the Landing Pad install. Once they are all bolted down and snug, you simply lock in the SkyLine Towers and your base Roof Rack is done. All the basic install info with generic pictures are included in the links above.

View attachment 22943

Weather guards are included to cap off the Landing Pads for if/when the Roof Rack is not needed or not being used at that time. They also give a nice finished look, and protect the hardware and seals from the elements.

View attachment 22944

Here are a few shots of the final base Roof Rack setup.

View attachment 22945
View attachment 22946
View attachment 22947
View attachment 22948

And last but not least, a shot of the RocketBox Pro 14 mounted and fully loaded up on its 1st cross-country move fro FL to NY.

View attachment 22949

Surprisingly no noticeable decrease in mileage on that 1400 mile trip (though i'm sure there was some). I had no problem hitting speeds of 75-80mph with this up there, and did really well. I was very impressed. It rained a ton on the drive and nothing leaked through the roof, no water got inside the box, and it couldn't have gone smoother.

The entire roof rack setup I have weighs in at 50lbs total with all 4 components I have here, and I had a good 75lbs of gear inside the box. So 125lbs total on the TJ's Hardtop across the country is confirmed to say the least.

Any questions, please feel free to ask.
Ok, so my main reason for going with this setup was because I have a few cross-country road trips planned and this seemed to be the best thing for me. I go with Yakima because I have always used and liked their stuff, is good quality, and setup is self explanatory for the most part. It is also a little expensive so there is a downside to going this route. (I used a bunch of gift cards I had towards the cost so it wasn't that bad for me in the end).

For this setup I used:
Also so folks know there are other variations of the this hardtop setup by using one of Yakima's Track Kits which require different components.

For my specific setup I was going to be using a RocketBox Pro 14 with a 40" crossbar spread (I did this for the widest possible footprint and load dispersion), and would be mounting my Landing Pads in a fixed location. So as people know the TJ Hardtop has a "taper" to it front to back, so I chose to mount my RocketBox to the Crossbars with the Towers and Landing Pads attached. That way you can basically set the entire completed roof rack on the Hardtop, then center/adjust the towers+landing pads to the exact place you wish before its permanently done.

View attachment 22950

(One nice thing about the TJ Hardtop is that it has these 6 grooves molded into the top, the 2 outermost grooves are too far out to use as a guideline for centering and not where you want to be drilling through. Of the middle 4 grooves that all look the same, use the outer 2 as you can see in my pictures). Measure off those grooves the distance you wish for idea roof thickness and Landing Pad placement. Make sure you stay away from any seams that may be on your Hardtop especially on the inside of the roof and towards the rear.

Once you have the towers+landing pads spread apart on both crossbars where you want and everything has been centered, I drew an outline around each Landing Pad with a pencil. Then from the top there are spots to mark 2 holes in each one, you color that like a bubble sheet. Then remove the entire Roof Rack from the Hardtop and you are left with 4 footprints. Those footprints are where you will now permanently mount the Landing Pad 6's. You drill through each of the 2 circles you've made on each footprint, so 8 total holes.

View attachment 22938View attachment 22939
View attachment 22940
View attachment 22941
View attachment 22942

With all 8 holes drilled out you can then apply Black Loctite around them all and fully complete the Landing Pad install. Once they are all bolted down and snug, you simply lock in the SkyLine Towers and your base Roof Rack is done. All the basic install info with generic pictures are included in the links above.

View attachment 22943

Weather guards are included to cap off the Landing Pads for if/when the Roof Rack is not needed or not being used at that time. They also give a nice finished look, and protect the hardware and seals from the elements.

View attachment 22944

Here are a few shots of the final base Roof Rack setup.

View attachment 22945
View attachment 22946
View attachment 22947
View attachment 22948

And last but not least, a shot of the RocketBox Pro 14 mounted and fully loaded up on its 1st cross-country move fro FL to NY.

View attachment 22949

Surprisingly no noticeable decrease in mileage on that 1400 mile trip (though i'm sure there was some). I had no problem hitting speeds of 75-80mph with this up there, and did really well. I was very impressed. It rained a ton on the drive and nothing leaked through the roof, no water got inside the box, and it couldn't have gone smoother.

The entire roof rack setup I have weighs in at 50lbs total with all 4 components I have here, and I had a good 75lbs of gear inside the box. So 125lbs total on the TJ's Hardtop across the country is confirmed to say the least.

Any questions, please feel free to ask.
Hi EJD,
I am picking up a 14 cubic feet Thule for $150 locally. Wanted to know if our TJ’s can handle the weight of the rack, box and stuff in the box - I am thinking sometimes it’ll add up to upwards of 200 lbs. what do you think? Also do you know of any racks out there that can go on the hardtop without drilling holes? Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: EJD