And that answer is do the good work, pull the front driveshaft and go drive it. If the vibes are gone at the speeds you want to drive, the hub kit will solve the problem. If not, it won't.
Y'all have me scared to do my re-gear
- Thread starter JFace
- Start date
I have a minor vibration on my 2006 6-speed Rubicon with factory 4.10s. It really only presents above 80 mph.
Things I have noticed:
I can "pause" the vibrations by putting it into 4WD on the freeway. If it's in the low noise part of the cycle, it stays at that noise. If I shift at the high noise part of the cycle, it stays at that noise. That leads me to think that the vibrations are rotational/torsional in nature and not merely an imbalance of the shaft. Removing either shaft eliminates the noise.
With the 4.10s and 35s, my driveshafts are moving significantly slower than stock. So I'm betting the angles or new driveshafts have something to do with it. I only intend to regear to 4.88, which is very close to stock driveshaft RPM.
I am running a 1350 Double Cardan (DC) shaft and not a 1310 DC shaft. By their nature, a double cardan shaft is NOT a true Constant Velocity (CV) shaft, as the intermediate section has to accelerate and decelerate twice every rotation. The 1350 DC intermediate carrier has a significantly larger mass and diameter than the 1310, giving it a vastly larger rotational inertia. Thus, it is easy to see how a 1350 shaft could result in vibrations where a 1310 would not.
Thus I suspect the larger DC shaft may be a significant cause of the vibrations. I may try a 1310 DC shaft, or see if true CV shafts (such as ones with a Rzeppa joint) exist. Running a 1310 DC shaft may reduce the odds of torsional vibrations. If I do install a 1310 or a true CV shaft, I will report the difference.
Regardless of my theory that the vibrations are torsional and not merely balance, I have a pair of Balance Masters active driveshaft balancers sitting on my shelf awaiting install. I will report if these do or do not make a difference.
Things I have noticed:
I can "pause" the vibrations by putting it into 4WD on the freeway. If it's in the low noise part of the cycle, it stays at that noise. If I shift at the high noise part of the cycle, it stays at that noise. That leads me to think that the vibrations are rotational/torsional in nature and not merely an imbalance of the shaft. Removing either shaft eliminates the noise.
With the 4.10s and 35s, my driveshafts are moving significantly slower than stock. So I'm betting the angles or new driveshafts have something to do with it. I only intend to regear to 4.88, which is very close to stock driveshaft RPM.
I am running a 1350 Double Cardan (DC) shaft and not a 1310 DC shaft. By their nature, a double cardan shaft is NOT a true Constant Velocity (CV) shaft, as the intermediate section has to accelerate and decelerate twice every rotation. The 1350 DC intermediate carrier has a significantly larger mass and diameter than the 1310, giving it a vastly larger rotational inertia. Thus, it is easy to see how a 1350 shaft could result in vibrations where a 1310 would not.
Thus I suspect the larger DC shaft may be a significant cause of the vibrations. I may try a 1310 DC shaft, or see if true CV shafts (such as ones with a Rzeppa joint) exist. Running a 1310 DC shaft may reduce the odds of torsional vibrations. If I do install a 1310 or a true CV shaft, I will report the difference.
Regardless of my theory that the vibrations are torsional and not merely balance, I have a pair of Balance Masters active driveshaft balancers sitting on my shelf awaiting install. I will report if these do or do not make a difference.
I'll take strength, serviceability, less wear and tear in 2WD and while flat towing, and the capability of driving off the trail with a broken axle shaft or fubar u-joint over convenience.
If you are researching total costs, it is also possible the hub kit wont fit your existing wheels, that's worth checking as well.
Yes, among the hub kits on the market, the most popular supplier - Yukon - offers both a 4x4.5 and 5x5.5 hub kit for the TJ.
There are various reasons to pick one over the other. For my purposes, and because I still have other vehicles that use the CJ 5x5.5 lug pattern and interchangeability would be nice, that is the particular hub kit I chose.
Others are just as happy with their 5x4.5 Yukon hub kits.
Your point is?
How much more clear do I have to be? If the hub kit wont fit the wheel you need to buy new wheels and that adds to the cost. Not only the lug pattern but the size of the center bore. For example my wheels will not fit a hub kit regardless of the bolt pattern because the center bore is too small so I'd have to buy new wheels.
Not disagreeing but there is a fair bit of validity to the wheel issue. The last one I just did was running an aftermarket version of the Rubi Moab rims. The center hole was not large enough to fit over the small hub. The small kit also moves the wheel mounting surface out about 7/8" or so which effectively reduces the back spacing which if it is already at an optimal depth, that will exacerbate fine tuning the steering or can.
The owner wound up with a tolerable back spacing but that complicated the rear shock outboard work which then caused me to have some custom wheel spacers made to move the rims out 5/8" or so to keep the tire off of the shocks. That was further complicated by the fact that he had press in studs. I happened to have a set of the same shafts with screw in studs so I was able to just swap shafts, install longer studs and get the spacers to work that way. It was a bit of an options and solutions dance there for a bit.
If it is not immediately obvious, a wheel spacer can only be as shallow as you can bury a lug nut in for the conventional type. Typically that is 1".
I can see how that would cause you pain.
You buy used tires from the llantera.
I'm just having some fun. Hub kits are like any other non-stock jeep part, change one thing and you discover that you have to change 6 other things that you hadn't considered. The good news is, do it long enough and eventually you will have considered enough complications so that fewer come as a surprise.
A local machine shop took care of enlarging my previous TJ's wheel hub opening size in minutes.
Great!! Now I am looking at locking hubs and I dont even have vibesI'll take strength, serviceability, less wear and tear in 2WD and while flat towing, and the capability of driving off the trail with a broken axle shaft or fubar u-joint over convenience.
There aren't many if any of the OEM styles that can be done to. The larger hole would cut too much into the spoke design and compromise the strength of the rim.
The 5 on 5.5 kit has some benefits that the smaller one doesn't. It doesn't move the wheel out further, they stay at the stock track width. Most 5.5 bolt circle rims have a center bore that is conducive to being enlarged.
Art's, he's cheaper and a nice guy but it's right down the road from Llantera.You buy used tires from the llantera.
I'd like to run lockouts but it's expensive and I run 5.5" of backspacing. The idea of busting a u-joint and just throwing a switch and finishing the day sounds good not to mention keeping my locker quiet.
Be aware that very much depends on the trail difficulty. It is not possible in JV to finish out any commonly run trail in 3 wheel drive.
I had a vibe after regear on my 03 Rubi. Turned out to be a front shaft that needed balanced.
after that . It was better but not perfect. My 06 Auto Rubi has no vibe.
i swapped front shafts, both were fine then ...the shaft that buzzed in the manual didn’t in the auto, at least noticeably.
after that . It was better but not perfect. My 06 Auto Rubi has no vibe.
i swapped front shafts, both were fine then ...the shaft that buzzed in the manual didn’t in the auto, at least noticeably.
Manual Hub Factoid:
Warn's first contribution to Jeep wasn't locking hubs, it was "free wheeling" hubs. They were called "summer hubs" when I was a kid.
I remember my dad swapping out the splined hubs on our CJ-3B for those hubs. I can even vaguely remember the citrus rancher from La Verne Heights who sold him those summer hubs, along with the '46 Bantam trailer that I own now.
Here is the full history:
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/inde...-history-of-early-warn-hubs-for-jeeps.131117/
Warn's first contribution to Jeep wasn't locking hubs, it was "free wheeling" hubs. They were called "summer hubs" when I was a kid.
I remember my dad swapping out the splined hubs on our CJ-3B for those hubs. I can even vaguely remember the citrus rancher from La Verne Heights who sold him those summer hubs, along with the '46 Bantam trailer that I own now.
Here is the full history:
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/inde...-history-of-early-warn-hubs-for-jeeps.131117/
