For those that have the savvy mid arm link system, did you use your factory lower control arm brackets on the axles or did they need to be cut off and different mounts used. If you used aftermarket mounts, which ones did you choose?
Mine is a aftermarket axle so the lowers are not stock but they are in the stock location. So as far as I know you can just use your stock lower link mounts front and rear. It's the uppers that you need to change.
Stock works good but if you plan to wheel hard a set of Currie miniskids on the front LCA brackets really strengthens them up.
It looks like you’re in the process of stretching your Jeep. Are you using the same frame mounts and just going longer links?
Also - do they seriously not include instructions for their weld on mid arm link kit?
I stretched my frame 4.75" with the help and advice of @mrblaine.
No I didn't use longer rear links as that would mess with all the work that Blaine has done designing the kit. I did use LJ rear links instead of TJ links because they are a little longer. I put the rear brackets where they fit with the rear links adjusted to the length specified in the instructions.
My front brackets are also placed where they are specified to be placed. But in the front I did get longer links made to move my front axle forward 2.75".
Yes there are no from what I understand actual install instructions but there are a "rough draft" install instructions floating around.
I think @Chris has those posted here on the site.
That post just confused the hell out of me. Let me try to clarify a few things if you don’t mind.
Would the geometry of the kit be designed around the stock wheelbase and kinda go out the window when stretching?
You mention not wanting to alter the geometry by using longer links in the rear, but then you use longer links in the front? That kind of contradicts itself to me. Is there a reasoning behind not wanting to use longer rear links but using longer front links?
I’m not really interested in stretching my frame but I would like to stretch the wheelbase in the future, hopefully, without having to redesign the entire suspension from scratch, but building off of, if possible.
Would the geometry of the kit be designed around the stock wheelbase and kinda go out the window when stretching?
You mention not wanting to alter the geometry by using longer links in the rear, but then you use longer links in the front? That kind of contradicts itself to me. Is there a reasoning behind not wanting to use longer rear links but using longer front links?
I’m not really interested in stretching my frame but I would like to stretch the wheelbase in the future, hopefully, without having to redesign the entire suspension from scratch, but building off of, if possible.
The rear stretch was done by keeping the specified lengths in mind.
Again from the advice and guidance of Blaine the front can be lengthened some without messing with the geometry. So as long as you put the brackets in their specified spot you are good.
Read @toximus build thread also.
The rear is the main limitation for where the brackets get placed.
You need to ask Blaine why the front isn't as affected by longer links. I just followed his wisdom.
Again from the advice and guidance of Blaine the front can be lengthened some without messing with the geometry. So as long as you put the brackets in their specified spot you are good.
Read @toximus build thread also.
The rear is the main limitation for where the brackets get placed.
You need to ask Blaine why the front isn't as affected by longer links. I just followed his wisdom.
The front links are parallel so a change in length does not really change their geometry.
The front links are as long as they can be and stay reasonably parallel. Making them longer and maintaining that level of parallelism is impossible with equal length links. If you move to disparate lengths between upper and lower, the caster change negates the parallelism.
When you say “their specified spot” are you referencing your original location(stock wheelbase) or a moved out location to accommodate the specific link length to retain the same geometry angles?
To the location where the links are the specified lengths in the rear and in the specified location for the front.
The instructions tell you where to place the brackets.
this is the best you're going to get as far as written instructions go.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/savvy-mid-arm-install.16426/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/savvy-mid-arm-install.16426/
What exactly is it that you are trying to figure out? Are you looking to install the kit or just looking for something to bitch about?
I’m not bitching about anything.
I’m looking into upgrading with this kit but am trying to get my ducks in a row before I spend 3 grand on something with limited instructions on how to make it work properly.
I’ve read through on why there aren’t proper instructions.
Ive been interested in upgrading my curry/savvy 4”sl 1.25 bl to the mid arm setup on my lj this spring. I recently rode in an lj with the mid arm at rausch creek and it Seemed to perform better and felt more stable than my setup over the obstacles.
Just so i have an idea of what to expect can someone give me an estimate in shop hours or a ballpark in labor cost because I don't weld.
Sorry for jumping onto your thread. Thanks
Just so i have an idea of what to expect can someone give me an estimate in shop hours or a ballpark in labor cost because I don't weld.
Sorry for jumping onto your thread. Thanks
The welding is the quick part. The real labor is removing the axles and all the oem brackets. Mine was done in around 16hrs. 8 of which was with two people.
If you're confident in your cutting and grinding skills you could get the whole thing prepped and call in a mobile welder. At that point I'd guess you'd pay around 2hrs or so of labor.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
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Before I ended up installing my midarm myself I had an 8 hr quote for the rear. With non TJ axles it took me more time for sure and the big sink was making custom brake lines. Fronts you can run the standard lines but you got to at least reroute a hard line in the rear. If you're gonna make new lines you may as well flip for calipers to the front and id your flipping your calipers you may as well outboard and since your in the area have I told you about how cool cutting brakes are?
Some of us have scope growth issues
What is your ideal value and why? Where is the COG on the vehicle in question, exactly?
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