Lift kit issues and questions

Bargain Box

Stand back, I built this s*** myself...
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Raleigh, NC
My jeep currently has 2.5" RC springs with unknown shocks, adjustable quick discos, and adjustable front track bar. My bump stops are non existent since they have deteriorated. The ride is on pace with a horse cart on a gravel road. I also have hardly any uptravel because the shocks appear to be to big for the lift. I found the below lift for a good deal. The question is, should I buy the new lift to get higher quality shocks, new bump stops, rear track bar relocation, and get another 1/2" on springs? Or should I piece meal it by keeping my springs and buying nicer shocks, bump stops, spacers for extra lift, etc?

https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraflex-3-lift-kit-w-shocks-9706-tj.html
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Measure the exposed shock shaft.

Also measure the gap inside the spring between the bump stop cup and the axle pad. Ignore any soft crumbly bits.
 
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Exposed shock shaft is about 4.5".

The gap between the cup and the pad is about 6.5".

This means you have ~4.5" of up. That is a little bit more than stock.

And the springs might be giving about a 1-1.5" of lift, if my math is correct in subtracting the rubber isolater.
 
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Exposed shock shaft is about 4.5".

The gap between the cup and the pad is about 6.5".

This means you have ~4.5" of up. That is a little bit more than stock.
Is that sufficient? Thoughts on my original questions?
 
Is that sufficient? Thoughts on my original questions?
Hang the axle by the shock and measure the extended length of the shock shaft. Then subtract the amount of exposed shaft at ride height. That number is your down travel.
 
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Took some measurements and took it up with a fork lift today. The lift is only 2" with no spacers not 2.5". I can get close to 20" off the ground on the front tires with nothing rubbing/bottoming out. The shock has about 1.5" left at that and the opposite side isn't trying to pick up the tire. The rear maxes out around 14" off the ground. When I say max out I mean it's getting light on the tire. It could go further I'm sure but would be unsafe for a few more inches. Back to the original question. Complete new lift to gain altitude, better shocks, etc. or just replace shocks because if it ain't broke don't fix it? I know 2" keeps me out of the SYE rabbit hole as well and I'm not planning on 35s.
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Took some measurements and took it up with a fork lift today. The lift is only 2" with no spacers not 2.5". I can get close to 20" off the ground on the front tires with nothing rubbing/bottoming out. The shock has about 1.5" left at that and the opposite side isn't trying to pick up the tire. The rear maxes out around 14" off the ground. When I say max out I mean it's getting light on the tire. It could go further I'm sure but would be unsafe for a few more inches. Back to the original question. Complete new lift to gain altitude, better shocks, etc. or just replace shocks because if it ain't broke don't fix it? I know 2" keeps me out of the SYE rabbit hole as well and I'm not planning on 35s.
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Use your forklift to answer the last question. That will tell us if you're shocks are the right length and if your tires are too big for the amount of lift you have.

I can already tell you that the tires are too large and that a 1.25" body lift will only help you.
 
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Use your forklift to answer the last question. That will tell us if you're shocks are the right length and if your tires are too big for the amount of lift you have.

I can already tell you that the tires are too large and that a 1.25" body lift will only help you.
I'm back home so I can't get the last measurements. I can tell you that the shocks hadn't run out of travel yet in those photos. What is your thought on "lift to small for tires" if they aren't touching the shock towers and fenders at max flex? Thank you for the guidance.
 
I'm back home so I can't get the last measurements. I can tell you that the shocks hadn't run out of travel yet in those photos. What is your thought on "lift to small for tires" if they aren't touching the shock towers and fenders at max flex? Thank you for the guidance.
You need to cycle your suspension. That involves disconnecting sway bar, removing your springs and tires, installing your shocks and lifting the axle on one side with total droop on the other. After you see how much bump you need for your shocks and trackbar, put a tire on. TURN THE TIRE to full lock in both directions. If it rubs the fender, write down how much bump you need to eliminate the rub. If it's more than the amount of bump you need for the shocks, then you need to run the larger amount of bump or decrease your tire size or add a body lift and/or spacer to get it where it will fit.

Ideally your shock travel should be 50:50 up:down.

Your tires are too big for that amount of lift.
 
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I'm back home so I can't get the last measurements. I can tell you that the shocks hadn't run out of travel yet in those photos. What is your thought on "lift to small for tires" if they aren't touching the shock towers and fenders at max flex? Thank you for the guidance.
If the tires are running into the body before the shocks reach compression, then you need to either get the body out of the way or run smaller tires.

You can get the body out of the way by removing parts of it by cutting or with new high clearance body panels, or you can raise it off the frame with a body lift, or you can lift the frame with a taller suspension lift.

If you do a taller suspension lift, then you might need new shocks. That last measurement will tell us if those shocks will work better or worse on a taller suspension lift. The goal for a well fitting shock is to have it's travel divided in half at ride height. Meaning that ~4.5" of up travel you have now should have about 4.5" of down travel to match. Right now, we don't know if your current shocks are the proper length for your existing spring lift.
 
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The question is, should I buy the new lift to get higher quality shocks, new bump stops, rear track bar relocation, and get another 1/2" on springs? Or should I piece meal it by keeping my springs and buying nicer shocks, bump stops, spacers for extra lift, etc?
Teraflex is not a very reputable brand as far as I've heard, I'd read this for a good idea for a 2 1/2" lift, a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687

With a 2 1/2" lift you are only a 1 1/4" body lift away from having enough room for your 33s
 
@JMT and @jjvw you two are extremely helpful and a lot smarter than me. I have some homework and studying to do to get all those questions answered. I just ordered gears and lockers so I have to take a break on spending. I would like to stay with the 33s. Do you think I'm better served pursuing a larger spring only lift with SYE or a body lift?
 
@JMT and @jjvw you two are extremely helpful and a lot smarter than me. I have some homework and studying to do to get all those questions answered. I just ordered gears and lockers so I have to take a break on spending. I would like to stay with the 33s. Do you think I'm better served pursuing a larger spring only lift with SYE or a body lift?
A body lift never hurt anyone, it opens the door for so many useful mods