Heard that. I will keep an eye out. The dark slate grey you’re talking about is the grey that basically looks black right?
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Is it possible to re-key my half doors?
- Thread starter EchoWhiskey
- Start date
Heard that. I will keep an eye out. The dark slate grey you’re talking about is the grey that basically looks black right?
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I never bothered re-keying my factory half doors when I finally found some. The soft top, or Safari top is on with the half doors. More trouble than it's worth in my case. I only lock the full doors when the hard top is on.
I had to reconnect a latching rod inside one half door when I got them. That was no fun at all. Taking the lock cylinder out of the door sounds like even less fun!
I had to reconnect a latching rod inside one half door when I got them. That was no fun at all. Taking the lock cylinder out of the door sounds like even less fun!
Tigger09
TJ Enthusiast
I have the same two key situation. I leave my door key under the rear carpet in case I ever lock my self out. If so I unzip the window, grab the key and unlock the door. If there is ever a reason to lock the glovebox or arm rest I grab the key, lock what I need locked and throw the key on my key ring for the day.
Hello. Reviving an old thread. Where in the heck do you buy the lock pins/wafers (if I wanted to rekey the locks myself)
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-re-key-half-door-lock-cylinders.26338/#post-425115
Same as many...wanting to key my half-door locks to my original jeep TJ keys. gonna try to get this done this week sometime. But Is there a way to Re-key the lock WITHOUT removing one of the original lock cylinders? By using the key itself and working backwards to figure out the tumbler/wafer sequence? OR is there anywhere on the vehicle that tells you the tumbler/wafer code?
thanks
j
thanks
j
Unless I’m reading it wrong, that’s what @MountaineerTom did in that thread. Trial and error — Just work your way from back to front, installing one wafer at a time. When you have the key inserted and the wafers are flush, that’s your code.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
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Correct. I didn't pull any of the original lock cylinders of my full doors. Just used the key to trail-and-error find the correct wafers.
It worked! I got my kit - spent about 30 min fiddling around but in the end I have 2 newly rekeyed locks for my half doors. Hardest part was getting the damn E clip off!! Thanks for the input and advice.
anyone need further info on this...I'm happy to help
anyone need further info on this...I'm happy to help
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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Lol. Im going to be tackling this job myself unless I find a decent quote. Just got $200 a door to rekey in Charlotte, NC
I know inflation is bad....but thats a lot
I know inflation is bad....but thats a lot
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Vtx531
TJ Addict
I wonder if you could skip buying the wafers and just remove the ones that aren't compatible and move ones that are compatible into the correct position? That would get my original key to work, yes?
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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As long as the cylinder contains the particular wafers you need to match your existing key.
Holy crap! I took the cylinders to the local stealership and they rekeyed them for $10 per cylinder 2 years ago.Lol. Im going to be tackling this job myself unless I find a decent quote. Just got $200 a door to rekey in Charlotte, NC
I know inflation is bad....but thats a lot
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That’s the key. Lol. Removing them yourself and bringing them to a locksmith makes it cheap. If they rekey it while it’s in the door it’s a lot more. For me in Raleigh NC it’s still $25/lock at the same place I went to a couple years ago. Another play quoted me $60 for both locks.
While re-keying mine, I also disconnected the push rod attaching to the internal door lock switch. So I can lock the doors from the outside with a key and they cannot be unlocked from the inside. It's a good way to prevent anyone from stealing your half doors.
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