Nice work on both the ignition actuator and winch. I really like how clean that winch is without the contactor box up front!
Nice work on both the ignition actuator and winch. I really like how clean that winch is without the contactor box up front!
Thanks. Me too. The newer versions do look better that the older square box that mine came with. But I like the less bulky look with it under the hood.Out of curiosity, which ignition switch did you get? I just replaced mine recently with this one. I installed it and, using a key cut from the VIN, programmed it to keep all the locks the same. The process was incredibly easy and now my ignition is tight and the key does come out when the engine is running.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8BKR5M/?tag=wranglerorg-20
My bad, I thought you were talking about the ignition switch!Thanks. Me too. The newer versions do look better that the older square box that mine came with. But I like the less bulky look with it under the hood.
I didn’t change the cylinder, just the actuator pin. Dorman Actuator Pin I bought the switch on the left side of the column, installed it to make sure it worked then put my original back in and kept the new one to put in the tool box in the back along with another actuator pin.
Any idea if the 12 volt guy winch switch can work with a Warn PowerPlant (integral compressor)?Ive got that exact one. Works great!
Thank you.Any idea if the 12 volt guy winch switch can work with a Warn PowerPlant (integral compressor)?
I don't expect to be able to switch between winch and compressor or power compressor from inside.
I'm not finding much on the PP online as far as YouTube, etc. But I do have the service manual .pdf so maybe stumble through that.
Nice build Tom!
Where'd you get your headlight guards? I might have missed it in the build. Simple fit? Yup, I have Toyota headlights.
That's awesome! I might steal your idea . Looks like everything fits really well without wasting space. I knew there had to be a better way than the ol' milk crate...I took the carrying case for a Dewalt Rip Saw I have and made a pretty compact fluid carrying case for road trips and off-roaring trips. I prevuoisly ised and old plastic milk crate sitting behind my seat. Naturally, I sat up higher and reclining my seat back much was limited. I used one of those oscillating multi tool things to cut most of the ribbing out to make room for everything to sit. 1 gallon of coolant, 2 quarts of oil. 2 quarts of transmission fluid, small bottle of brake fluid, hand cleaner, a hand full of gloves and some rags Are currently in it.
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Thanks. Steal away! Yeah, I love milk crates, they are so handy. I started with a smaller case for a drill then remembered I had the rip saw case that just might hold a gallon of antifreeze. Turned out to be perfect. Nothing has to be forced either, which is good.That's awesome! I might steal your idea . Looks like everything fits really well without wasting space. I knew there had to be a better way than the ol' milk crate...
Black Friday sale stuff has all arrived, plus a couple things from @ManWithJeep . Body Lift and MML also, by not pictured. As always, now I just need some time to install everything.
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Yummy!Black Friday sale stuff has all arrived, plus a couple things from @ManWithJeep . Body Lift and MML also, by not pictured. As always, now I just need some time to install everything.
I was wondering what transfer case shifter cable kit you purchased? I bought my LJ and the guy gave one to me that looks exactly like the one you have. No names on it and I haven't installed it yet. Thanks. Love your buildGot this finished up this afternoon. Pretty easy to do with the skid plate off. I cleaned up the minor rust between the skid and frame, sprayed some Rustoleum Rust Reformer on them, then some Rustoleum satin black. I used 2 washers per bolt to create a little space between them.
Smooth shifting!!
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It’s the Undercover Fab Works extra clearance skid. 3/8” aluminum.solid upgrades from christmas. What trans skid is that? looks aluminum.