Rear axle not aligned on one side
- Thread starter myjeep3
- Start date
the wheel got hit so hard it ripped the shock off the top end and crumbled the CA's. and looks like it took most of the impact.
my mention of a bent shaft would be the best problem in this instance, but if 1 had to put money on it if the wheels not wobblin (and should have been checked at the shop) it's toast. costs more to get straightened than it costs to replace.
my mention of a bent shaft would be the best problem in this instance, but if 1 had to put money on it if the wheels not wobblin (and should have been checked at the shop) it's toast. costs more to get straightened than it costs to replace.
So what you're saying? You dont think its bent?
No rotor/caliper on rear axle. This is a 97.
Gotcha - I was thinking disk brakes. It is easy to check. Put the rear up on jack stands and run it. If the axle shaft is bent the tire will not turn true - it will wobble.
I think what we are saying is that with the evidence here, the axle housing is most likely bent from the impact. But, the shaft could also be bent and is worth checking.
Do alignment shops turn a tire to see if the toe out follows on a rear in case it has a bent axle shaft or bent rim?
I don't think so, but don't know for sure. But if I saw a solid axle with that much toe I'd take a second look.
We would have already idled it in gear with the rear axle on jack stands.
Most do not. I would put it up on jackstand and run it to see if it has a whobble to it. The flanges bent pretty easily.
A couple things I would want to know.
How hard was he hit and how fast.
Was the impact mainly on the tub or was the wheel hit also.
Did you look at the body mounts to see if they are shifted.
I was in the auto business for 30 years, that’s why I recommend checking it. Unfortunately some mechanics will be trained to do a task and not really understand it. I saw a guy that would just drive the car and bill it then if it came back he would align it. That was before the computer printout.
They may or may not, I would think the shop would have noticed when calibrating the head. But very few mechanics these days go the extra mile or couple steps in this case. I worked is a dealer with 30 techs and I might let 3 work on my personal vehicle.
Got it. At maybe just easier and cheaper to just swipe out the entire axle. Found few good ones for $400-800.
I am afraid to start playing with replacing shaft...bent housing, etc to found that it wont go back to original specs
The body mounts did not shift. Most of the impact was at the tire, rim is ok, but tire go destroyed, and the controls arms bent.
Replaced the control arms and I am able to drive it again. Just that I noticed that rear tire not being straight, so went to get it aligned and couldnt.
3.55 is a fairly rare ratio since it only came on 97-98 TJs, you might have to regear your replacement axle. On 97-98 they were either 3.07 or 3.55. On 99 and newer they're all either 3.07 or 3.73.
And yes the front and rear axles must match, though the front and rear ratios differ by .01. 3.07/3.08, 3.54/3.55, 3.73/3.74 etc. That .01 is not a problem since 4x4 is only supposed to be used on low traction surfaces. In 2wd it doesn't matter, the front could be 5.38 and rear 3.07 and it wouldn't matter. So if you found a replacement axle that was good but its ratio didn't match the front ratio you could still drive with it so long as you avoided all use of 4Hi or 4Lo.
Crap, I need the 4x4 around here. Base on these old images I found, its definitely a 3.55.
My other option is to go with 4.10 front and rear, but my axles were nicely cleaned up and sprayed with all new everything. Would hurt to go back and try to clean up a new set.
What size tires are you running now? Your Profile is empty so far as basic Jeep information goes. 4.10 may or may not be a good choice of ratio.
That's essentially a 33" tire. With your 4.0 engine and 5-speed transmission 4.56 would be a much (!) better all-around ratio that would produce ideal highway engine rpms.
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