04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build
- Thread starter B00mb00m
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B00mb00m
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I made a telescoping pitman arm as I previously mentioned. In consultation with @mrblaine I sized the pitman arm to generate enough stroke to maximize available misalignment in my axle UJs. Then set steering stops to match the throw of the steering box. I am using a 5" pitman. The longer the pitman the more steering angle you will be able to develop.
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B00mb00m
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Parts mike guy said that most OEM pitman arms are 80% of the knuckle drag to bj length. This is just random info for reference.
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B00mb00m
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You're right about that. I don't recall them breaking off though, surprisingly.
Here is a guy who built a Hybrd 44/60 like we've talked about. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?p=1383765
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B00mb00m
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B00mb00m
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Pretty stoked to report I got my diesel heater installed. The fuel tank is not clean enough. I don't have a good solution for that yet. I'm interested in any ideas @mrblaine might have??
The heat is AWESOME!!! I'm doing this to support camping in the ski area. I'm powering it with a Jackery power supply. It's a simple way to get 12V. Also wired in my canopy lights to use the Jackery.
I've been vocal in the truck camper thread this is my poor man's version. 2 people sleep in back no problem not sure if the kids can sleep in the cab yet.
The heat is AWESOME!!! I'm doing this to support camping in the ski area. I'm powering it with a Jackery power supply. It's a simple way to get 12V. Also wired in my canopy lights to use the Jackery.
I've been vocal in the truck camper thread this is my poor man's version. 2 people sleep in back no problem not sure if the kids can sleep in the cab yet.
Yes but the concept is still the same for a LP or HP axle. He has a lot of good points about his reasons for doing things a certain way. Get past what the axle is. And a LP axle is fine in some situations and there are reasons to run one as opposed to a HP axle.
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B00mb00m
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Well, the concept isnt actually the same. High pinion Jk gears won't fit it any classic 44 front housings that I know of. I cannot think of any reason to run a low pinion on my LJ, what would it be? If someone gave me a LP axle I wouldn't run it. Low pinions are rock anchors where I wheel and I want nothing to do with them.
I'll check out the thread more also.
From what I know about JK gear their HP gears are the same size and everything else as a regular old school HP44. But again it's all the other parts to make a hybrd 44/60. There is a lot more to it than just a gear set.
I know people who have had to use a LP axle due to clearance issues. The HP axle was hitting their engine or suspension mounts or some other part so to get maximum up travel they had to run a LP axle. I guess I don't know where you wheel then cause if it Reiter and that area or most anywhere in WA I wheeled all of it in my TJ with a stock LP Dana 30 for 3-4 year and a CJ5 before that and a Suzuki Samurai before that. And they all had LP axles to start with.
@B00mb00m 2 questions...
1. did you do a forward stretch at all?
2. Did you have to notch the bottom of the right frame rail to clear the drag link and/or track bar?
If you wanna see the pictures (such as they are)
https://web.archive.org/web/20121005045850/http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?p=1383765
navigation is a bit weird, but ya'll are smart. You'll figure it out.
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B00mb00m
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I did that so I don't have to worry about leaking. I have a standpipe installed inside to pull from bottom.
I also bought one of these jugs. It fits perfectly, has an angled spout for filling easier in-situ but installing a standpipe will be difficult to access the nut on backside and it's opaque so not easy to see fuel level.
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B00mb00m
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1. Like 1". Just enough that savvy front midarm lengths would be slightly too short.
2. No I didn't but assume you will have to if you go for your max uptravel. My frame side trackbar mount is a bit lower than others I think this helped out with the not notching but I did leave 3/8" of uptravel on the table. I ended up exactly 6" uptravel front and rear. And I was matching the rear lift height of currie LJ springs.
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B00mb00m
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No, we had this discussion earlier on the hybrid axle thread I believe. The front JK pinion spacing is different than classic 44 spacing so they won't fit as a swap.
Just because LPs are used doesn't make me want one! The HP front is one of the main benefits of the JK44 swap, Imo. I would like to go the opposite direction and swap my rear for a HP. But we digress. I understand why you posted it, yes it's a hybrid, it just doesn't help me much because nothing is the same.
The hardest part Imo is sourcing the appropriate housing for a reasonable sum. I need to get 3" tubes without C's that accepts a Rubicon front 35S Locker. When I'm actually ready to buy I will call you Currie for a quote. Dynatrac has the lowest clearance center section but they wanted $2400 with out C's. Do you know what Cs they use on their axles? Are they 99-04 SD like currie?
OK here ya GO.... The ring gear is 8.5" for both 1st Gen HP44 & JK Gen HP44. The only gains you get are in the pinion shaft size.
https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/the-difference-between-new-generation-dana-44-axles-and-older-ones/
It is only in the Low Pinon axles where you've gained anything in size. Which is why Carl makes both the Jana 54 & Jana K4 kit.
I posted it because he was discussing all the other things that go into the swap not just if it's a LP or HP axle.
Here is the quote I got last year from Dynatrac on a HP44 housing and they were including the Dana 60 "C" but were not installed.
If you want to do a Hybrd 44/60 on the CHEAP then you need to find a F250 HP44 as they are the one with a 3" axle tube and build it from there. If you want the custom center sections then you're gunna have to spend the $2500 and then build from there.