I’m about to tackle the clutch on my LJ. Never pulled the 6 speed. Anyone tackled this before? Any tips or tricks? Will I have enough room to pull it and replace the clutch without jacking the Jeep?
NSG370 clutch replacement
- Thread starter ItchyDong
- Start date
I have not done mine yet, but I think it has the 2 E Torx bolts at the top just like the older ones, therefore you will need that special E12 socket.
Yes. I’ve done it. If I were you I’d jack the Jeep up high enough to where you can move the transmission out from under the Jeep. I didn’t, and I got it done, but advisable since otherwise you are working in tight quarters.
Don’t have the flywheel turned. It has a convex shape to it that you need to maintain. Just go over it with some emery cloth. Get a bearing puller to pull the pilot bearing. I used a cheapo from HF. There’s a good video out there that takes you through step by step. You might need an extra set of hands getting the tranny put back on the bolts. It’s a bit of a bear and my transmission jack is crap, so it didn’t help much. E12 as someone mentioned.
you could go either route. ive always preferred pulling it as a assembly personally. its just heavier and a bit awkward with the weight of the transfer case dangling off to the side. .
I did not pull them as an assembly. I figured it was too much weight for me to handle, especially with my poorer quality transmission jack.
Shouldn’t be too bad of a job. I like to separate the transfer case and transmission, much easier to manage them. It’s literally 6 nuts and pulling them apart to separate them. Only downside is needing to drain trans fluid first.
I prefer to replace the flywheel rather than sand with emery cloth but that’s up to you.
Get an E12 socket for the upper 2 bellhousing bolts.
I use the Luk 05-901 kit and a Mopar throw out bearing.
I prefer to replace the flywheel rather than sand with emery cloth but that’s up to you.
Get an E12 socket for the upper 2 bellhousing bolts.
I use the Luk 05-901 kit and a Mopar throw out bearing.
I pulled the transfer case separately from the transmission mostly because I didn't have the correct tools to balance both as an assembly ie:trans jack etc..6 nuts or so and maybe a couple small things and it's off and out of the way.
I used a luk kit, national throw out bearing and only inspected and cleaned the flywheel. It was super simple
I used a luk kit, national throw out bearing and only inspected and cleaned the flywheel. It was super simple
I’d love to replace the flywheel while I’m in there but Jesus is it tough to track one down from a reputable manufacturer. I ordered a luk from Summit and it came damaged. Plus, the mounting holes are two different sizes. I’m having a horrible time getting it returned too, but that’s a whole other story. I’m just going to emry cloth it and pray. My transmission shutters horribly when you try and let the clutch out. Hopefully it isn’t the flywheel causing it.
Very likely will be ok. Most of the poor shifting is the trans or clutch itself.
- rented an HD trans jack
- put fully extended 6 ton stands under the axles to make working more comfortable and to allow the trans and transfer to be pulled out from under the LJ
- removed the trans and transfer as a unit
- used the LuK 05-901 kit with a National TO bearing
- borrowed a pilot bearing puller from the parts store
- after inspecting the flywheel (no cracks) hit it with a DA and some 60 grit
- snapped the pivot ball off in the housing trying to replace it and had to drill it out and rig up the new one to work
- replaced the pivot ball spring clip
Last edited:
You may want a support on the back of the motor as well, to avoid damage to the rubber mounts. I used a bar typically used for a car that just stretches across the engine bay.
i pulled mine with trans and tcase together, but installed trans first by itself. made it way easier to get to the e12s plus others 
I did it by myself.
Saw no need for lifting, plenty of space. 1 jack, 1 trans jack from HF, 1 jack stand.
Took trany and transfer case off as one.
Apply good pressure on E12 bolts to make sure socket is all the way and evenly seated, or you will strip it.
It is roughly a 10 hour job if you push it.
This video explains why 6 speed rattles
Saw no need for lifting, plenty of space. 1 jack, 1 trans jack from HF, 1 jack stand.
Took trany and transfer case off as one.
Apply good pressure on E12 bolts to make sure socket is all the way and evenly seated, or you will strip it.
It is roughly a 10 hour job if you push it.
This video explains why 6 speed rattles
The job will be easier for sure if you raise the vehicle. Just not so high the transmission jack won't extend far enough. And I would support the vehicle by the frame, not the axles. You'll be messing with the sprung weight. So if you support by the axles, the frame will be moving around as you transfer weight to the transmission jack. Everything is just more stable if you support the frame vs the axles.
On my 2005 I dropped the NSG with my brother. I'm sure there's more than 1 way but for me:
1. Took off the Transfer case. I certainly don't remember draining either Trans or TransC fluid like @machoheadgames did, it's been a year and a half, so I've killed a lot of brain cells with bourbon.
2. I put it on 6 ton stands at the axles. I'm sure you can do it more than 1 way.
3. On the bolts, there are two ETorx (they're famous if you research this on this forum, ha) if you make sure the socket is on, then you shouldn't have an issue, I did personally replace them with normal bold heads.
4. Pay attention to the wires when putting it back in, and don't be a super dumbass and forget to put the dust shield on, or you get to pull the trans back off and put the shield on, super stupid.
I like it lifted, to answer your questions, but when changing the clutch I could literally sit there.
1. Took off the Transfer case. I certainly don't remember draining either Trans or TransC fluid like @machoheadgames did, it's been a year and a half, so I've killed a lot of brain cells with bourbon.
2. I put it on 6 ton stands at the axles. I'm sure you can do it more than 1 way.
3. On the bolts, there are two ETorx (they're famous if you research this on this forum, ha) if you make sure the socket is on, then you shouldn't have an issue, I did personally replace them with normal bold heads.
4. Pay attention to the wires when putting it back in, and don't be a super dumbass and forget to put the dust shield on, or you get to pull the trans back off and put the shield on, super stupid.
I like it lifted, to answer your questions, but when changing the clutch I could literally sit there.
Pop the t-case off. Use drive on ramps so you have enough room to sit up and work and enough room to get the bellhousing out from under the frame on the jack. If you don't have drive on ramps, 4 steel 8" x 15" rims work very well and they have built in wheel chocks. Jack it up and put a rim under each tire. Works very well.
Similar threads
