I have a curiosity question. Is 8 hours alot of time for a shop to mock up and weld on new axle mounts? I kinda think so but I thought I'd check
Rear axle welding question
- Thread starter Roccrawler3
- Start date
To do it right the internals need removed. Axle needs to be preheated...then monitored to make sure the temperature is steady...then welded...then wrapped in a fiberglass blanket and allowed to cool slowly.
I did my front truss...
-Mac
I did my front truss...
-Mac
If you're only welding on brackets there is no need to preheat and let cool with a blanket. Nor any need to remove the internals. The question was nothing about a truss.
Take your Jeep over to All J Products in Big Bear. I've used them several times for repair while up there wheeling. They do some good work and, in my experience, are very honest with their work and prices.
@mrblaine is just down the hill from you, he is a welder-extraordinaire and sets up axles all the time. Whether he's got the time or not is an entirely different story. You won't find better quality. Period.
I’m new to MIG welding. But I’m getting to the point where I’m willing to weld on my axles (I recently did @mrblaine s elevated front sway bar mounts. Currie front mini-skids and a new rear track bar bracket are in the queue). My question is, when welding something like a bracket or mini-skid onto the tube, what should I do to prevent warping and how much of a concern is it?
Take your time and let it cool between welds. Especially if you're only welding on one side of the tube.
Ok thanks.
Is there a way I can direct message him? I'm new here. Thanx.
Click on the Envelope icon above to send a Private Conversation. In the Recipients space type in mrblaine and his name will highlight, click on his name then type your message to him below there.
If Blaine has the time I would look there first. It will be done right.
running the welder to hot is the 1st problem........................ all this autoset crap overcompensates for novice welders with extra power. or guys that "crank it up". this causes distortion and tempering of the material 2 things we don't want.
lots of heat equals lots of expansion equals lots of contraction.
lots of heat equals lots of expansion equals lots of contraction.
I find that the auto-set actually runs slightly cooler rather than hotter. Just my experience.
they just got a couple Lincoln's in few months ago and when set by material thickness they run hotter than i run my machine for the same tasks. at the thicknesses i work with most often it slings wire, forcing you to keep up with the machine.......to me, a tool is something i control.
TBH i don't change my setting very often and control the penetration and bead manually on a range of material thicknesses.
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I’ve wondered about speed and heat with respect to warping potential. I assume a lower setting (power and wire speed) allows the heat the diffuse away from the work area more because it takes longer to do the same weld. So does that increase or decrease warping? As I said above, this is all new to me. My machine does have autoset (Miller multimatic 220 AC/DC) but you don’t have to use that.
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