Pulverized my coil rail plug, how screwed am I?

[primetime4]

I am the one and only owner of my 2001 TJ auto so unfortunately no PO for me to blame here. For over 20 years it has run like a top only throwing a CEL once for an EVAP leak. Recently had a crank but no start issue that was traced to the crank position sensor going bad. New one worked great but engine started throwing 303 and 306 codes shortly after. Likely coincidence but mechanic recommended a new coil rail.

Long story short, I could not get the old rail unplugged even after pushing the red tab accordingly. The thing simply would not budge. In a moment of frustration and to test the limits of Wrangler hell I forced at the plug with a screwdriver and just about pulverized and possibly (probably) severing a wire in the process. I buttoned it up to throw in the towel taking it to a local shop and my Jeep basically felt like it was running in 2 cylinders now with CEL flashing at me non-stop. Luckily shop is only 1/2 mile away. So a misfire issue where the Jeep still seemed to run fine us now a full blown calamity.

How worried should I be? Will a decent shop be able to replace a plug engineered in Hades? So worried that I just reached the end of the road with an old friend. Thanks.

 

[g.hayduke]

I assume it's just the harness connector you are concerned with since you want to replace the coil pack?

I think it's possible to remove pins and replace the connector housing but I haven't tried that. You can probably also chop just the connector off a junk yard specimen and splice it into your harness to replace the one you trashed.

Not that huge of a deal unless there is some gotcha I'm not aware of.

 

[Lou]

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/38860/Aptiv-54200409-Apex-2-8-Sealed-4-Way/
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/38116/Aptiv-10762803-Apex-2-8-Female-Terminal/
You can find them elsewhere in lesser quantities.

 

[primetime4]

Thanks for the replies. That is helpful to know. I’ve screwed up my fair share of repairs and was worried this might be the last straw. Hope the shop comes through.

 

[JKP]

For future reference, those connectors are much easier to disconnect if you spray them with WD40 first. Let it soak in, then wipe the outside dry and disconnect.

There's also a kit to convert it to a remote coil setup out there.

 

[g.hayduke]

There's also a kit to convert it to a remote coil setup out there.

How would that solve the smashed connector problem?

A better question: What problem would that solve?

 

[pagrey]

If you are replacing the connector end it's a good time to extend the wire for the other coil pack. It wont change how the stock one works but will simplify installing the other coil if you ever go that route. All you need is plug wires and a bracket to hold it if you ever change to the other style once you extend the wire.

 

[mrblaine]

How would that solve the smashed connector problem?

A better question: What problem would that solve?

Same type answer as the fucktards on FB. Hey all, my lock rod is malfunctioning inside my full doors. LS swap it is your only answer. My mirror won't stay adjusted. LS swap it is your only answer. One of my valve stems is leaking and I have to add some air every other week. Yeah buddy, LS swap is your only answer.

 

[pagrey]

The other coil is available everywhere and much cheaper, less than half the cost. Once you extend the wires the work involved is even less. It's not some over the top pointless modification no matter how triggered some people get about it. It makes sense for some people, some people like doing it, it's not a big deal at all. It makes removing the plugs easier and if you use copper plugs that can make it worthwhile.

 

[g.hayduke]

The other coil is available everywhere and much cheaper, less than half the cost. Once you extend the wires the work involved is even less. It's not some over the top pointless modification no matter how triggered some people get about it. It makes sense for some people, some people like doing it, it's not a big deal at all. It makes removing the plugs easier and if you use copper plugs that can make it worthwhile.

All true but the question remains.

What problem would that solve?

 

[Apparition]

Same type answer as the fucktards on FB. Hey all, my lock rod is malfunctioning inside my full doors. LS swap it is your only answer. My mirror won't stay adjusted. LS swap it is your only answer. One of my valve stems is leaking and I have to add some air every other week. Yeah buddy, LS swap is your only answer.

Awesome, my LS will fix issues I didn’t know I had!!! You know, if GM would ship it.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

The other coil is available everywhere and much cheaper, less than half the cost. Once you extend the wires the work involved is even less. It's not some over the top pointless modification no matter how triggered some people get about it. It makes sense for some people, some people like doing it, it's not a big deal at all. It makes removing the plugs easier and if you use copper plugs that can make it worthwhile.

How about a link to one of those other coils. Not that I'm looking for one but, hey, you never know when those will be the only ones available.

And yeah, I'm serious about that even though a Hemi should fix more issues than an LS. Or did I mean "create more issues"? I think you get some of both either way.

 

[Bcrez]

Are both sides of the plug destroyed or just the 1/2 that attaches to the coil rail?

 

[pagrey]

How about a link to one of those other coils.

Here's a company that makes a kit for the swap. The coil itself is just a regular JK coil. You can also use a Viper coil if you wanna brag or a minivan coil if you want to pay tribute to our super sweet minivan transmission. NGK is $98 vs $54.

 

[primetime4]

Are both sides of the plug destroyed or just the 1/2 that attaches to the coil rail?

I broke off the red tab and pulled off some black plastic with it. From there, I attempted to pry it off from the bottom and tore off some addition plastic there exposing some wire.

 

[JKP]

They should be able to just replace the connector if it is still available.

 

[NskLJ]

I am the one and only owner of my 2001 TJ auto so unfortunately no PO for me to blame here. For over 20 years it has run like a top only throwing a CEL once for an EVAP leak. Recently had a crank but no start issue that was traced to the crank position sensor going bad. New one worked great but engine started throwing 303 and 306 codes shortly after. Likely coincidence but mechanic recommended a new coil rail.

Long story short, I could not get the old rail unplugged even after pushing the red tab accordingly. The thing simply would not budge. In a moment of frustration and to test the limits of Wrangler hell I forced at the plug with a screwdriver and just about pulverized and possibly (probably) severing a wire in the process. I buttoned it up to throw in the towel taking it to a local shop and my Jeep basically felt like it was running in 2 cylinders now with CEL flashing at me non-stop. Luckily shop is only 1/2 mile away. So a misfire issue where the Jeep still seemed to run fine us now a full blown calamity.

How worried should I be? Will a decent shop be able to replace a plug engineered in Hades? So worried that I just reached the end of the road with an old friend. Thanks.

I think you slide the red tab then push the black tab to release the connector. It is almost impossible with the coil pack on. Here is a replacement connector, I would solder and shrink the connections.
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct...xLgWLeiSZ7bxHykum8JMlRsF40V1i6aAaAstgEALw_wcB

 

[Lou]

I think you slide the red tab then push the black tab to release the connector. It is almost impossible with the coil pack on. Here is a replacement connector, I would solder and shrink the connections.
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct...xLgWLeiSZ7bxHykum8JMlRsF40V1i6aAaAstgEALw_wcB

You can get 5 connector bodies and 50 terminals for $15 plus shipping.

 

[Jamison C]

@primetime4 , I did a manual to auto swap a couple months back and took all of the engine wiring out of the donor harness. I have the coil pack plug and plenty of wiring connected to it. You can have it for the cost of shipping.

*edit*
The wires have some grime on them, but other than that the connector and wires are useable.

 

[NskLJ]

You can get 5 connector bodies and 50 terminals for $15 plus shipping.

@primetime4 will need a proper crimper to attach those connectors to the wires though. I have used standard connectors and they usually are pretty good quality.