Road to 33's and now to 35's: order of updates?

[legobuff]

2001 Sport, 4.0 L, 32RH Automatic, 3.07 gearing, Dana 30/35

As far as I can tell all is stock on my TJ (except current tire/wheels) and thankfully everything is working. Wanting to end up having this as my daily driver, AR/WV/PA backwoods mountain/land fun, and hunting vehicle.

I’ve lurked here and think I have it straight in my head on where I want to take my TJ. What I’d like is help in figuring out the order of doing things.

I want to end up cleanly running 33’s. To get that as I understand it I need to do lift and re-gear. I don’t want to do this multiple times so I am thinking Currie 4” SL. Then go to 4.10 gearing. While re-gearing I read it’d be good to beef up my the rear axel. So I’m thinking do the super 35 kit. Seeing as that can come with the ARB locker, might as well do that too. Adding the lift, I’m thinking I’ll need to do a SYE as well and/or upgrade the driveshaft. I think that hits all of the needs to get to 33’s. Please educate me if I am wrong.

Wants along the way... swap out bumpers and add a winch. I’d also like to do a frame swap somewhere in there. Current frame is fine for daily… and probably fine when we head to WV/PA… AR though I'm running around raw land with no roads and crossing creeks/streams/rivers. I’d prefer to have a clean and prepped frame… alas though I am ignorant so I’ll leverage everyone’s experience and have you clue me in if you’re willing.

Along the way I’ll update a few tid-bits to make the daily driving a bit more enjoyable, swap out the stereo and speakers, seat covers, recovery gear, headlights to LED, remove the rear seat, and phone mounting of some sort.

All that said, am I missing anything? And is my order of updates sound?

Thanks all.

 

[pagrey]

Frame swap is a big deal, I wouldn't start into a Jeep with a bad frame. I'd either do that first or look for another one.

 

[legobuff]

Frame swap is a big deal, I wouldn't start into a Jeep with a bad frame. I'd either do that first or look for another one.

I hear you.

The frame is probably more my OCD than anything. Mechanic said it was fine, not rusted through and no cracks... Yet there is rust and I figure if I can see rust, there is more rust I cannot see. Living in the midwest and the way the salt gets thrown around I added it my list. I was figuring I'd wait until it becomes a problem but I see the wisdom in taking care of that before I start the others.

 

[pc1p]

Sounds like a good plan, though if you're set on 33"s, I think the 2.5" SL + 1" BL is typically a better option as it offers up some other advantages.

For the frame, you can drill some drain hole in key areas, This will let you check the thickness and also flush/drain the frame frequently. A good internal frame coating (like the Eastwood offering) and annual/semiannual touch ups with Fluid Film should keep it from rusting further.

 

[primetime4]

With a 4” lift, you’re going to need adjustable track bars front and rear to recenter the axles. To realign your pinion angle after the SYE, you’ll need adjustable control arms. You’ll also need to extend your sway bar end links I would say front and rear. Lastly, I would also recommend upgrading the steering to handle 33s with a Correctlync or tie rod upgrade. But you’re heading in the right direction (or wrong depending on how you look at it).

 

[Irun]

Sounds like a good plan, though if you're set on 33"s, I think the 2.5" SL + 1" BL is typically a better option as it offers up some other advantages.

For the frame, you can drill some drain hole in key areas, This will let you check the thickness and also flush/drain the frame frequently. A good internal frame coating (like the Eastwood offering) and annual/semiannual touch ups with Fluid Film should keep it from rusting further.

This route simplifies things considerably. The only change I'd make would be the go 1.25" BL. This opens the door to getting the belly height in the 16+" range, with a tummy tuck. The one significant downside here is that a shorter spring gives you less free length. What that means is you get less shock travel. In your case, you'd likely be in the 8" - 9" shock travel length range. The significant pluses for going this way are pinion angle changes won't be needed, or will be minimal.

 

[legobuff]

With a 4” lift, you’re going to need adjustable track bars front and rear to recenter the axles. To realign your pinion angle after the SYE, you’ll need adjustable control arms. You’ll also need to extend your sway bar end links I would say front and rear. Lastly, I would also recommend upgrading the steering to handle 33s with a Correctlync or tie rod upgrade. But you’re heading in the right direction (or wrong depending on how you look at it).

I'm a n00b here, yet I thought the Currie 4" SL kit has that, well except the steering upgrade, I'll have to double check. Good points either way.

 

[legobuff]

Sounds like a good plan, though if you're set on 33"s

I don't see what I'd get out of going bigger than 33's and I would like to have this be my daily vehicle so unless someone has way to convince me to go bigger I'm set

 

[legobuff]

This route simplifies things considerably. The only change I'd make would be the go 1.25" BL.

Are you thinking something along the lines of the OME kit from DPG? I thought about that but when pricing it out was similar to Currie 4" so figured it was better to stay with an all SL. Then again, I'm learning, what is the short version on why it is better to do SL + BL instead of SL?

 

[primetime4]

I'm a n00b here, yet I thought the Currie 4" SL kit has that, well except the steering upgrade, I'll have to double check. Good points either way.

You're right depending on which kit you are getting. This sounds like it's going to be a super sweet build.

 

[Sensei]

2001 Sport, 4.0 L, 32RH Automatic, 3.07 gearing, Dana 30/35

As far as I can tell all is stock on my TJ (except current tire/wheels) and thankfully everything is working. Wanting to end up having this as my daily driver, AR/WV/PA backwoods mountain/land fun, and hunting vehicle.

I’ve lurked here and think I have it straight in my head on where I want to take my TJ. What I’d like is help in figuring out the order of doing things.

I want to end up cleanly running 33’s. To get that as I understand it I need to do lift and re-gear. I don’t want to do this multiple times so I am thinking Currie 4” SL. Then go to 4.10 gearing. While re-gearing I read it’d be good to beef up my the rear axel. So I’m thinking do the super 35 kit. Seeing as that can come with the ARB locker, might as well do that too. Adding the lift, I’m thinking I’ll need to do a SYE as well and/or upgrade the driveshaft. I think that hits all of the needs to get to 33’s. Please educate me if I am wrong.

Wants along the way... swap out bumpers and add a winch. I’d also like to do a frame swap somewhere in there. Current frame is fine for daily… and probably fine when we head to WV/PA… AR though I'm running around raw land with no roads and crossing creeks/streams/rivers. I’d prefer to have a clean and prepped frame… alas though I am ignorant so I’ll leverage everyone’s experience and have you clue me in if you’re willing.

Along the way I’ll update a few tid-bits to make the daily driving a bit more enjoyable, swap out the stereo and speakers, seat covers, recovery gear, headlights to LED, remove the rear seat, and phone mounting of some sort.

All that said, am I missing anything? And is my order of updates sound?

Thanks all.

Personally id go straight to 4.56's if you ever have any intention of upgrading the jeep further, and going up to 35's. I drove my jeep with same 3 spd as you on 33 tires w/ 3.07 gears for years. It was almost like driving a clown car. Driving into a head wind up hill was an unbelievable struggle. My jeep used to get blown all over the road. Now with 4.56's (on 33's) it plows through steep hills and heavy cross winds with great confidence.

Also something to consider is the strength of the rear axle. You did mention the super 35 kit, so i'm sure you're aware of the issues that plague the dana 35. But another thing to consider might be swapping your entire axles altogether. That is exactly what I did. And it ended up being cheaper than getting a regear done whilst also upgrading my axles strength, brakes, and suspension angles at the same time. I had a HP Dana 30 and Ford 8.8 w/ LSD built for me just last year, for only 2200$. I'm still running the stock axle shafts in the front, but the rear has been completely changed all together. Swapping axles that are already set up for your jeep is a simple task compared to setting up gears. I bought my axles from this dude on ebay. He freight shipped it to my local Fedex distribution center, and they loaded the pallet into my truck. Only took him a month around Christmas time to build them. Had the axles swapped within the week of them arriving. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2844777619...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

 

[legobuff]

Personally id go straight to 4.56's if you ever have any intention of upgrading the jeep further, and going up to 35's...

Also something to consider is the strength of the rear axle. You did mention the super 35 kit, so i'm sure you're aware of the issues that plague the dana 35. But another thing to consider might be swapping your entire axles altogether. That is exactly what I did. And it ended up being cheaper than getting a regear done whilst also upgrading my axles strength, brakes, and suspension angles at the same time. I had a HP Dana 30 and Ford 8.8 w/ LSD built for me just last year, for only 2200$. I'm still running the stock axle shafts in the front, but the rear has been completely changed all together. Swapping axles that are already set up for your jeep is a simple task compared to setting up gears. I bought my axles from this dude on ebay. He freight shipped it to my local Fedex distribution center, and they loaded the pallet into my truck. Only took him a month around Christmas time to build them. Had the axles swapped within the week of them arriving. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2844777619...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Damn, on the axels, yeah I'll need to look into that, didn't think I could go that route for amount, figured the re-gear and super 35 would be less.

I like the look of the 35s but just don't see me using them as 35s, not saying where I go won't use them, just on the day to day I'll be on the road... 6-9 times a year will having fun... but if an axel swap plays out cost wise I could see going that route and if so understand the 4.56. I pulled 4.10 from elsewhere in the forum when running 33s and the 32RH.

 

[Sensei]

Damn, on the axels, yeah I'll need to look into that, didn't think I could go that route for amount, figured the re-gear and super 35 would be less.

I like the look of the 35s but just don't see me using them as 35s, not saying where I go won't use them, just on the day to day I'll be on the road... 6-9 times a year will having fun... but if an axel swap plays out cost wise I could see going that route and if so understand the 4.56. I pulled 4.10 from elsewhere in the forum when running 33s and the 32RH.

Yes 4.10 is ideal ratio for our 3spds on 33 inch tires to bring the performance back to factory. 4.56 will give you more torque and low end acceleration, at the cost of top end speed. But then if you upgrade to 35's, you'll be at that factory power again. So when deciding, you have two choices.

Go with 4.10s, that will give you the most optimal factory performance for 33s. But if you decide to upgrade to 35s, you'll fall out of that optimal factory range.
Go with 4.56s, on 33's you'll have additional power at the cost of slight fuel efficiency loss, and top speed loss. But if you upgrade to 35's you'll be in that optimal factory range without having to regear a 2nd time.

I get about 10-11 mpg on 33's w/ 4.56 gears. But I have a heavy foot.

 

[Woodrow]

So, back to the frame...I think you're on the right track and getting good pointers on the33s build. BUT, if you really want/need a frame swap, then one thought is to build your rolling chassis then swap your tub and drive train onto it when ready? That way everything can be much more thoroughly gone through, cleaned and prepped. Just an idea.

 

[bobthetj03]

Going the 2.5" + 1.25" BL route may reduce the possibility of getting drive line vibes, which may also eliminate the need for a rear SYE/DCDS. The BL will allow more room to stuff those 33's under articulation and give you a bit more shock length choices. The BL will also allow more room if you decide to do a mild tummy tuck with the t-case skid. The downside to this route, if you do think you'll go to 35's down the road, you'll be doing some of this stuff over again. Either way, a brake upgrade and steering upgrade should be on your short list.

 

[pc1p]

I don't see what I'd get out of going bigger than 33's and I would like to have this be my daily vehicle so unless someone has way to convince me to go bigger I'm set

Really just depends on the trails and terrain you plan on tackling. For some, the extra clearance above the diffs is necessary. For deep mud, a lot of folk want as much height as they can reasonable get (so 4" + 1"), which will look funny on 33"s. However, on typical NE region trails, 33"s are more than enough for most.

Are you thinking something along the lines of the OME kit from DPG? I thought about that but when pricing it out was similar to Currie 4" so figured it was better to stay with an all SL. Then again, I'm learning, what is the short version on why it is better to do SL + BL instead of SL?

A lower SL helps with driveline angles and may even negate the need for a SYE. A BL has the advantage of allowing for a tummy tuck. The OEM t-case skid is affectionally known as "the shovel" for a reason, so running a smoother t-case skid while getting the drivetrain up slightly higher is advantageous to many

 

[jjvw]

Having been down a similar road, I wouldn't waste much time and effort on building around 33s. Everything works so much better with 35s.

 

[legobuff]

So, back to the frame...I think you're on the right track and getting good pointers on the33s build. BUT, if you really want/need a frame swap, then one thought is to build your rolling chassis then swap your tub and drive train onto it when ready? That way everything can be much more thoroughly gone through, cleaned and prepped. Just an idea.

I really like this idea. I have a space issue doing that right now yet I'm figuring this is going to be a long build process for me... unless I find a rich uncle I wasn't aware of... so I'll have to see if I can make the space over the winter.

 

[legobuff]

Going the 2.5" + 1.25" BL route may reduce the possibility of getting drive line vibes, which may also eliminate the need for a rear SYE/DCDS. The BL will allow more room to stuff those 33's under articulation and give you a bit more shock length choices. The BL will also allow more room if you decide to do a mild tummy tuck with the t-case skid. The downside to this route, if you do think you'll go to 35's down the road, you'll be doing some of this stuff over again. Either way, a brake upgrade and steering upgrade should be on your short list.

Thank you... that makes sense. I'd love to say I have grandiose ideas of 35s, 37s, 40s, but I'm trying to be realistic. I think 33s will suit me just fine in how I'll be using it... It seems I need to do some research into the OME kits then.

 

[legobuff]

Having been down a similar road, I wouldn't waste much time and effort on building around 33s. Everything works so much better with 35s.

I read you. Going 35s though, correct me where I am wrong, means higher lift, more drivetrain modifications. Granted if I can snag an axel swap like @Sensei pointed out I'll have to give it some serious thought.