06TJ35's
TJ Addict
A lot of us run the Currie track bar with no issues. If I were you Ill fix whatever needs to be fix to run the Currie track bar. Trust us.
Dave didn’t give you good recommendations at all.
Poor Ride Quality
- Thread starter FultonD33
- Start date
A lot of us run the Currie track bar with no issues. If I were you Ill fix whatever needs to be fix to run the Currie track bar. Trust us.
Dave didn’t give you good recommendations at all.
If there is one thing on my Jeep I know quite well, it is the Currie/RockJock front track bar. I know how to push the axle at the case spreader hole right up to the frame side JJ housing at full shock compression. And I know how to reshape and relocate the track bar to push the axle forward yet another 1.75" before the pitman arm almost gets in the way of the track bar. All with 12" of shock travel split 50/50 at ride height.
There is no way I would ever use a RC track bar for this.
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You're pretty well in the sweet spot up front, I definitely wouldn't change to the shorter ones.
The rear is a little lower than I would shoot for but I'm not sure its low enough to be a smoking gun and it's the shortest one they have so there's nowhere to go with the shock. I've addressed that issue by adding a spring spacer, but my ride heights worked out ok to do that.
had to put in somewhere!
Fruit shapes and fat diff covers, are y'all lowkey making fun of me?!!
FIFY = fixed it for you. Blaine made a small change in what was originally said to make something said clearer, truer, or more to the point.
We all start there, but if you pay attention, you will be less so.
See what is highlighted below, and seek to understand the "why". You will learn a whole lot and it's entirely better than just being told "here, use this, it's better". It may be beyond your budget and no worries if that is the case .. but understanding the "why" and the "how" is priceless.
No, the Currie had massive installer error issues combined with likely an overly large front diff cover.
You would benefit greatly from a power steering test. Get some light, get under the front of the rig, have someone start it up and turn the steering wheel back and forth from about 11-1 fairly rapidly.
You watch and touch every joint that moves when that is happening. Put a thumb on the ball joint or inner C, forefinger goes on the other part that is moving. Do that as well for the rest of the joints. Check the TRE's and make sure the body isn't popping up and down on the pin. Look and feel for any movement that should not be there. Look at the joint in the axle side trackbar and watch how far it moves relative to the bolt. Check all the threaded connections with jam nuts, they generally wiggle to show they are loose.
When done watch the input shaft on the steering gear. The rotational input from it should very closely match the output rotation of the sector shaft where the pitman bolts on.
If it doesn't, then you need a new gear. A simple test is to finish ruining the steering gear by adjusting the lash tighter at the adjuster. If that tightens up the steering and slows down some of the bad habits that give you the impression of diminished ride quality, then it really is time for a new steering gear.
I don't know that I have any left but I can check to see if I have a lower mileage stock replacement if you want to pay shipping to tide you over and test if that was it before you jump into the steering parts black hole and spend a small fortune.
Moore County
New Member
The folks on this board, while extremely helpful and knowledgable, can sometimes be assholes. I guess it‘s internet culture or “humor.” Hopefully you have it figured out.
Sometimes? Well that's fucked up, we were shooting for always so it looks like we need to tighten up our game a bit.
Actually what you saw was something very basic. It is also very common. See, the issue is folks want and actually need assistance and they want that assistance to be very accurate, very specific, and very relative to solving their issue.
When that level of advice is offered and then everyone starts to get the sense that it is not being paid attention to as much as it should be, then the shenanigans start. We aren't really picking on him so much as joining in his fun of messing around. Or put another way, if he can do it, so can we.
It's all in good fun and he'll eventually get his issue fixed with some more good advice, more pics and compliance on his part, and some brute force diagnostics. He'll also learn how to be much more specific and pay attention to what his rig's errant behaviors really are and how to describe them far more accurately. He's already learned how to differentiate between tire wobble and road input so progress is being made.
I added the word invisible to the post to clarify what is very often a question about modified and upgraded steering usually with hydro assist added. The common sentiment by those unfamiliar is that they don't want over assisted steering that makes it difficult to drive the rig or alters the steering response in some negative manner. If you follow a few basic rules with sound installation principles, full blown custom steering with hydro assist is fully transparent and the only way you can tell anything has been done is now you can turn in the rocks (where it can turn) as easily as you do in a parking lot.
You tend to try and get a lot of your assistance on the various FB groups you belong to and by and large, they really aren't helping. I've about given up since almost everything that is pointed out as being fairly deficient except in very narrow experience ranges, is then argued about by folks who have worked on and fixed 1 vehicle ever, the one they are driving.
Vtx531
TJ Addict
He perceives the poor handling due to a crap steering gear as poor ride quality since it is a handful to drive at speed.
does anybody ask about whether it increases the likelihood of damaging things downstream of the assist ram, like tie rod ends, by putting more force against them than the factory had intended? and if they did, would it be a legitimate concern?
Just curious. It's on my mind because I spent labor day weekend wheeling with a couple of IFS rigs with rack and pinion tie rods that looked about the size of my pinky finger and I had at least a couple of instances spotting them where I was being extra cautious not to have them turn hard against a rock because I didn't want to deal with trail breakage.
OP
Looks like I fell for it then... I still have the Currie bar, but I will need to get a new axle end bracket welded back on. Dave said to do this AND move the axle back, which I did. I was at a little over 16.5" on the lowers, moved it back to 16.25" and that alone probably would have fixed the issue. You live and you learn
OP
OP
I will try this for sure. If it comes up to be the steering gear (it probably is, I have adjusted the Allen screw hoping for improvement before and found little if any) then I will take you up on the steering box if available.
It is a trade off. The cylinder takes some load off of the trackbar mount so it lives longer along with the trackbar due to the cylinder reacting against the axle instead of the frame.
Solve one problem, deal with another. Pick your poison.