Correct. I'm about to throw all my XC's in the garbage...I watch for battery deals and get "free" tools to buy batteries that I'm buying anyway.
Arizona Rock Crawler
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
Correct. I'm about to throw all my XC's in the garbage...I watch for battery deals and get "free" tools to buy batteries that I'm buying anyway.
I just bought the M12 light tower that came with 2 of the bigger M12 batteries for 200ish delivered. My buddy sold off the light tower for a 100 because I don't need two of them.
It's a compromise in not wanting to drag a lot of weight and bulk around a jobsite. If the demand changes, so will the tools.
Congrats on going head first with the Red. I gathered too many Yellows to justify the switch.
I was gonna leave it alone but then thought nah, that extra 1/2” back will definitely make me a trail hero. Since I don’t have the shocks in, and want to get the arms where I want them before the shocks go in, I set this up to be able to handle 7” of axle uptravel. That should be a conservative number and gives me some wiggle room for when the shocks go in. The shocks will have 6” of shock uptravel.
Are you thinking about raising the 6 body mounts while your doing the midarm? I just noticed in this post the bent over ear. Can't remember if you discussed doing this or not.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/post-1202775
The space is looking good, nice rear upper links over the diff. It's interesting to see how it and the tub are right there and I assume you dented the tub by jacking it up to give enough clearance.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/post-1202775
The space is looking good, nice rear upper links over the diff. It's interesting to see how it and the tub are right there and I assume you dented the tub by jacking it up to give enough clearance.
Are you thinking about raising the 6 body mounts while your doing the midarm? I just noticed in this post the bent over ear. Can't remember if you discussed doing this or not.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/post-1202775
The space is looking good, nice rear upper links over the diff. It's interesting to see how it and the tub are right there and I assume you dented the tub by jacking it up to give enough clearance.
Did you happen to see my post, 2 after the one you linked?
It's interesting to see how it and the tub are right there and I assume you dented the tub by jacking it up to give enough clearance.
Yes and no, you jack it up until it lifts the rig off the ground and then you smack the bottom of the arm where it touches the corner of the cargo step with a nicely size 3 lb. shop hammer and that dents it up quite nicely.
Another oneand yes I will but as a different phase. Wanted to midarm first because you need to modify the raised mounts with the midarm bracket
View attachment 364800
You gonna share with the class why it's bad to not get all the paint cleaned off?
I’m in love with my m18 stubby 3/8” impact wrench. I used it on everything today. The different modes were super nice so that I could also tighten smaller bolts with it. It fit everywhere and was effortless to use. I’m excited to keep upping my tool game and get rid of all my harbor freight and hand me down junk. It’s fun knowing I’ve gotten where I am though with mostly cheap tools.
How to not fuck up a shock outboard 101:
Step 1: Determine how much uptravel and downtravel you want. I want 6” up/6” down
Step 2: figure out how long that would make your shock at ride height.
Ex: If my extended shock length is 31 1/8”, and I’m splitting my travel 6” up and 6” down, then my shock at ride height will be 25 1/8” because the shocks will be compressed by 6”.
Step 3: Make a stick mock shock that is the ride height length center of eye to center of eye. The stick must have tubes that are the same ID as the shock eyes and the same width as the mounts. Be sure your little tubes are exactly 90* to the stick.
Then you get to bolt the stick in the mounts and it will be impossible to mess up your travel bias when mocking up the mounts on your Jeep. This is also important because not only will your bias be perfect, but the heim joints in the shocks will also be exactly neutral at ride height. This ensures you will not bind the joints at articulation.
Step 1: Determine how much uptravel and downtravel you want. I want 6” up/6” down
Step 2: figure out how long that would make your shock at ride height.
Ex: If my extended shock length is 31 1/8”, and I’m splitting my travel 6” up and 6” down, then my shock at ride height will be 25 1/8” because the shocks will be compressed by 6”.
Step 3: Make a stick mock shock that is the ride height length center of eye to center of eye. The stick must have tubes that are the same ID as the shock eyes and the same width as the mounts. Be sure your little tubes are exactly 90* to the stick.
Then you get to bolt the stick in the mounts and it will be impossible to mess up your travel bias when mocking up the mounts on your Jeep. This is also important because not only will your bias be perfect, but the heim joints in the shocks will also be exactly neutral at ride height. This ensures you will not bind the joints at articulation.
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