Arizona Rock Crawler

starkey480 said:
How to not fuck up a shock outboard 101:

Step 1: Determine how much uptravel and downtravel you want. I want 6” up/6” down

Step 2: figure out how long that would make your shock at ride height.
Ex: If my extended shock length is 31 1/8”, and I’m splitting my travel 6” up and 6” down, then my shock at ride height will be 25 1/8” because the shocks will be compressed by 6”.

Step 3: Make a stick mock shock that is the ride height length center of eye to center of eye. The stick must have tubes that are the same ID as the shock eyes and the same width as the mounts. Be sure your little tubes are exactly 90* to the stick.
View attachment 366081

Then you get to bolt the stick in the mounts and it will be impossible to mess up your travel bias when mocking up the mounts on your Jeep. This is also important because not only will your bias be perfect, but the heim joints in the shocks will also be exactly neutral at ride height. This ensures you will not bind the joints at articulation.
View attachment 366078
Click to expand...

As long as your fitment is done at design ride height. You mentioned it, it needs to be highly emphasized.
 
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starkey480 said:
How to not fuck up a shock outboard 101:

Step 1: Determine how much uptravel and downtravel you want. I want 6” up/6” down

Step 2: figure out how long that would make your shock at ride height.
Ex: If my extended shock length is 31 1/8”, and I’m splitting my travel 6” up and 6” down, then my shock at ride height will be 25 1/8” because the shocks will be compressed by 6”.

Step 3: Make a stick mock shock that is the ride height length center of eye to center of eye. The stick must have tubes that are the same ID as the shock eyes and the same width as the mounts. Be sure your little tubes are exactly 90* to the stick.
View attachment 366081

Then you get to bolt the stick in the mounts and it will be impossible to mess up your travel bias when mocking up the mounts on your Jeep. This is also important because not only will your bias be perfect, but the heim joints in the shocks will also be exactly neutral at ride height. This ensures you will not bind the joints at articulation.
View attachment 366078
Click to expand...

Much easier than trying to compress the shock with shoe string
 
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Looking awesome! I also made a mock fully compressed shock to make sure the angle on the axle mount was still good and the shock body was still center. The Fox's have a good amount of movement, but it's still nice piece of mind.
 
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A smidgen of inspiration for you.
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starkey480 said:
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
Click to expand...
Not as much as I am. I almost fucked it up but caught it right at the last second. I was originally going to just move the nutsert section of the lower part of the frame up. I missed that the radius would still be there and interrupt the aesthetics I am after.

The nutsert is a test to see if there is enough meat left to set one correctly in 1/4" if the flange is flush to the surface. There is.
 
mrblaine said:
Not as much as I am. I almost fucked it up but caught it right at the last second. I was originally going to just move the nutsert section of the lower part of the frame up. I missed that the radius would still be there and interrupt the aesthetics I am after.

The nutsert is a test to see if there is enough meat left to set one correctly in 1/4" if the flange is flush to the surface. There is.
Click to expand...

Are you going to add radius to the 2 ends or just cap it square?
 
mrblaine said:
If the aluminum was painted the same color as the frame, my goal is to make it look like there is not a skid installed.
Click to expand...

I thought you always said flat belly wasn’t worth the pain?
 
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