Rough ride
- Thread starter LJtheunicorn
- Start date
- Status
You jeep people are so funny
OP needs to delete this thread or a mod needs to send this shit show to Off Topic. Because there is absolutely nothing techworthy that is going to be useful to anyone at this point.
You're right. We are gaslighting. Listen to Dirk.
let me try a reset:
tuned springs versus geometry correction brackets to improve ride quality
So what you're saying is that the bolts were punching into the metal and you didn't notice that there was any resistance there?
Let me guess- you hammered all the bolts down with an impact, huh?
Don't tell me you were using a torque wrench and torqued to 30-35 ft lbs, which are what the instructions CLEARLY state.
Here's the last 2 lines from the actual JKS body lift instructions regarding torquing the bolts:
"Using a torque wrench, tighten all 1/2” and 7/16” Bolts (B & D) to 30-35 ft-lbs.
NOTICE: Use care when tightening bolts to avoid crushing factory rubber body mounts."
Gotta follow the instructions bruh. Otherwise stuff happens and good parts get a bad rap. Perhaps that's why we've NEVER had an issue with these- in literally 2 decades... but you did.
Here's the url to the JKS body lifts: https://jksmfg.com/collections/wrangler-tj-lj-1997-2006/products/1-25-body-lift-wrangler-tj
You can see that the kits come with both longer and shorter bolts.
Now- I'm not saying that JKS couldn't have messed up the hardware on your kit. That wouldn't be the first time that a major off-road supplier got the wrong hardware in a package. That still doesn't give you the right to make the claim that all poly body lifts are bad because of your experience- especially when so many have used the same kit with no issues whatsoever.
This sure looks a lot more like installer error than a product issue to me.
You jeep people are so funny
OP needs to delete this thread or a mod needs to send this shit show to Off Topic. Because there is absolutely nothing techworthy that is going to be useful to anyone at this point.
it’s useful to warn gullible people that buy into this twat’s entire thought process..
This isn't possible. Take an OEM body mount apart and think for maybe 5 seconds on the design. Give it 10 since you're still being stubborn for some reason.
You jeep people are so funny
OP needs to delete this thread or a mod needs to send this shit show to Off Topic. Because there is absolutely nothing techworthy that is going to be useful to anyone at this point.
Disagree. There is being some tech talked about. The JKS body lift portions are real tech. I tried to torque my JKS Body lift to the required torque (35 ft-lbs, IIRC) and couldn't get there without WAY more squish than I was comfortable with. I could feel the bolt pulling the body in. So I ran them loose...until I noticed the bottom of the body lift flaring out. Then I pulled that garbage for some nice, solid aluminum lift pucks.
Here is the thing about plastic. It creeps...in that with constant force, it will almost flow, kinda like glass in a really old building will be thicker on the bottom than on the top. So...Dirk may NOT hear about issues with JKS body lifts. That doesn't mean JKS body lifts don't have issues though...just that he doesn't hear about it. It happens slowly, over time. It was two years or so before I really noticed my JKS pucks had deformed. In fact, I think I had a discussion with @jjvw about the same thing, when I first installed them and thought they would be good, cuz delrin is a pretty great material in the right application...turns out, body lift pucks are NOT the right application for Delrin.
I followed JKS's own instructions to reach whatever bolt torque they specify. Years later, after finding the pucks were loose from the body flopping around and since cracked spot welds, I asked the question of why. Then I switched a solid, non-compressible puck made of aluminum so I could actually tighten the bolts while also using bolts of the proper size. Look up what bolt lengths JKS provides. The 4 shorter ones are a 1/2" shorter than the 6 longer ones. You can clearly see that the factory bolts were about an inch shorter.
And again. I am not the only person to have figured this out. You sell this garbage. I presume you also install it. You can confirm this and send me $5000.
How much more are you going to demonstrate that you don't understand how the factory body mount isolaters work? That is what you are doing. Stop it.
I could go along with that if we didn't have so many local rigs running that body lift for so many years- our own included.
I will say that I always torqued them to feel though. No excessive "squish" and many years of service. I've not had a single one fail yet on any of these rigs around here.
Poly deforming is not necessarily poly failing. Poly coil spacers commonly take on the footprint of the of the coil. It's a SLIGHT indention where the 2 materials meet. That's expected when you sit a hard material like steel against poly. Gross deformation to the point of failure is another thing altogether.
In and of itself, poly deformation isn't a problem. Where it becomes a problem in a body lift is that each puck may be deforming a different amount (due to varying torque on the body mount bolts, twisting of the frame, flex in the tub, etc) and they no longer support the tub as they should. That leads to broken spot welds and other bad things, as has been experienced by others. I ended up replacing my tub for reasons related to rust, but I can't rule out the fact that uneven support from my JKS body lift for a few years didn't contribute to blowing out a couple of the tub mount spots on the torque boxes.
- Status