You type a lot and say very little, so it's hard to catch it all.
This is how we know we can't trust you. That's just simple logic to recognize how a squishy puck squishes. Now you're just being stubborn and refusing to learn from experience.
Rough ride
- Thread starter LJtheunicorn
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You type a lot and say very little, so it's hard to catch it all.
This is how we know we can't trust you. That's just simple logic to recognize how a squishy puck squishes. Now you're just being stubborn and refusing to learn from experience.
Yeah. OPs whip doesn't ride like butta'. Gotta get that smoothed.
I also want to know what put holes in my tub.
Huckster
TJ Enthusiast
Apparently not.…although I have learned a bit about shocks and springs…and I still like jeeps
Pretty simple really. We get a bone stock TJ and install one of our kits on it. We'll first install the heaviest OME coils and drive it around. We'll net somewhere around 3" of lift. The more people the better here, so there's no room for error or speculation. We can gather a large group of people to drive and/or ride in the jeep. Who knows- maybe we can call in an off-road magazine or 2 to cover the debate!
Then, we'll install the lighter rate OME coils. We will add whatever spacers are needed to sit the jeep the same height as the heavier coils so nobody can cry about "shock travel bias" and we will all drive it again. Everything else will be EXACTLY the same- tires, air pressures, shocks, suspension components, top, etc.
If there's no difference, I will pay the 5 grand, the whole thing can be video'd and placed on YouTube for the world to see how deluded I am. I will post on this forum how wrong I was and never bring it up here again.
On the other hand- If there's a noticeable difference in ride quality, anyone betting against me gets to PAY UP their $1,000.00 and we agree that not all coils are the same and substantial ride quality gains AND losses can indeed be obtained by nothing more than different rate coil springs. Anyone on this forum that takes the bet agrees to post on this forum that they were wrong and never say coils make "no difference" in ride quality again.
Think about it. No more hearsay. Settled. Once and for all.
So. Who's ready?
The same writers publish to all of them so that'll make it easier. Lmk if you want their phone number.
I was never interested in your money, so I'm out.
You type a lot and say very little, so it's hard to catch it all.
This is how we know we can't trust you. That's just simple logic to recognize how a squishy puck squishes. Now you're just being stubborn and refusing to learn from experience.
Now you're starting a whole different discussion. First, there are different poly body lifts on the market.
Some are actually a honeycomb if you look at the ends. They are not solid poly. These will most certainly collapse over time- or even quicker if some monkey overtightens them.
JKS body lifts are solid poly, not hollow. The bolts are loc-tited because they are not to be overtorqued, which is a mistake some people make.
Properly installed, there is absolutely no reason that a JKS body lift will poke holes, rip holes or collapse a body. That is a sure sign of over torquing the bolts.
If you want to apply some ACTUAL logic, consider this. The factory body mounts are rubber. They are softer than the solid poly mounts that come in the JKS body lift. How often do you hear of factory mounts rupturing unless they have been over torqued?
The JKS body lifts work in conjunction with the factory rubber, which I prefer any day over a poly only or aluminum only body lift.
That little bit of cushion between the frame and body allows for less noise and vibration to be transmitted up through the frame into the body.
If you've sucked your body down into the JKS body lift or ruptured the puck, sorry to say, but you've overtorqued the bolts.
We aren't the only one who have had this happen. Pull back the rear carpet with a set of JKS pucks the have been around for a while. Jeep knew those bolts needed to be shorter than the surrounding bolts. JKS doesn't care, most owners don't pull back the carpet, most dismiss the small increase in vibration transition into the tub as a Jeep thing, and you have never paid attention.
Here are the factory body mounts. Two in the green box belong to the body mounts at the rear shock mount crossmember.
Jeep made these bolts shorter so that they don't punch into the tub. JKS didn't make these bolts short enough. Or maybe Jeep is trying to gaslight us and JKS body lifts don't punch holes in our tubs.
Look at my gaslighting. Look at it!
There's a metal sleeve acting as a crush sleeve working with the bottom mounts that are also metal reinforced. The rubber is between the "washer" on either end and the frame's body mounts.
Do you really not know this?
There's an internal sleeve that prevents that from happening.
JKS body mounts do not allow anyone to correctly torque the body mount bolts. Loctite has absolutely nothing to do with it. The polyurethane mounts compress and defeat the purpose of the isolater's internal sleeve. The bolts are never tight. Secured by loctite does not mean the bolt is tight.
Now we know that you don't understand how the factory isolaters work or how bolts work.
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