Upgrading my TJ to be more off-road capable

Fouledplugs said:
Context. How much does a typical one ton truck weigh that engineers suggest using an “E” rated tire on?
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1 ton trucks over the last 20 years have been in the 8-9,000 lbs range. 1/2 tons and SUV are running 5-6,000 lbs. Cars like Challengers, Chargers etc. weigh in over 4,000 lbs now. Modern vehicles are fat.
Fouledplugs said:
I wonder what the weight distribution is on them. Anyone know and can point to a source?
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Mine came in nearly 50/50 the one time I had it on a split scale. It still had a front bias, but not by much. That's with a soft top, a rugged ridge tire carrier and 33x12.50 spare on the back.
 
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SvtLdr said:
Setting up ring and pinion gears does require some special tools and some technical knowledge. I'm a firm believer in the notion than anyone can learn how as long as they possess some basic mechanical skills and are willing to be patient and ask questions. I was able to learn the skills along with a couple of my buddies. We've done a handful of axles now and find the job rather therapeutic and incredibly rewarding.

Installation of a locker typically requires gear setup work, depending on which type of "locker" you're talking about. The lunchbox lockers (aka soft lockers) do not require gear setup because you typically maintain the factory carrier. Any type of selectable locker or limited slip differential that replaces the factory carrier will require gear set up work. I'd encourage you to do some research to learn the differences between the locker styles that exist.

I will say that correcting my axle gear ratio was one of the very best improvements I have done to my TJ - no question about it. I installed Eaton E-lockers along with 4.88 gears when I switched to 35" tires. After being on 33's with the stock 3.73 gearing for a number of years, my first reaction was "Why didn't I re-gear years ago?!"
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I’m in the same situation with stock 3.73’s and 33’s, eventually I’ll regear especially if I go to 35’s
 
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LONGJP2 said:
@Austin O.
I don't remember if you said why you wanted 17's.
If you're switching to JK/JL wheels, you can usually find a really good deal on like new takeoffs (wheels and/or tires).
However, IMO; 31s are too small for 17" wheels.
YRMV
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Only reason is that jk takeoffs is what’s already on the jeep. Do you think it’s worth buying 15” wheels?
 
Austin O. said:
Do you think it’s worth buying 15” wheels?
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For offroad, a smaller wheel means more available sidewall flex.
Hard to say if that's worth the money, especially if you might go bigger later.
For me, it's the aesthetics. Too much wheel, not enough tire.
If you don't mind the look, you can certainly find a good deal on 17" tires (take offs).
 
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LONGJP2 said:
For offroad, a smaller wheel means more available sidewall flex.
Hard to say if that's worth the money, especially if you might go bigger later.
For me, it's the aesthetics. Too much wheel, not enough tire.
If you don't mind the look, you can certainly find a good deal on 17" tires (take offs).
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At first I hated the look of 17s, but it has definitely grown on me to the point where I don’t really care and can’t justify spending the extra money to get 15s

Edit: Looking quickly though on eBay, it seems I can get some 15” takeoffs from a tj or xj for under $200… might be worth it…
 
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If you don’t mind JK rims watch your local FB marketplace. Seems like I always see set with very low mileage removed so they could go 40s like all cool kids. But then I have no issue running used which is major concern for others.
 
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Austin O. said:
At first I hated the look of 17s, but it has definitely grown on me to the point where I don’t really care and can’t justify spending the extra money to get 15s

Edit: Looking quickly though on eBay, it seems I can get some 15” takeoffs from a tj or xj for under $200… might be worth it…
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The rule of thumb is the rim should be roughly half the tire size. Thus, 29’s-33’s look best with 15’s. 35’s look best with 17’s.

Keep in mind a tire on a 17” rim will cost significantly more than the same overall size tire on a 15” rim.

Another rule of thumb is Load C. Better on and off-road. Durability is not an issue.

👍🏼
 
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Austin O. said:
Looking quickly though on eBay, it seems I can get some 15” takeoffs from a tj or xj for under $200… might be worth it…
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If you want stock steel 15" wheels, you can probably find them locally on marketplace or at your local Pull-a-Part for even cheaper. Put a straight edge to them before buying. I saw a guy in Kannapolis on marketplace last week trying to sell a set of 33x12.50x15s on polished Pro Comp wheels. Look around, you might find something you like, and remember minor cosmetic issues can be fixed with some paint.
 
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BlueC said:
If you want stock steel 15" wheels, you can probably find them locally on marketplace or at your local Pull-a-Part for even cheaper. Put a straight edge to them before buying. I saw a guy in Kannapolis on marketplace last week trying to sell a set of 33x12.50x15s on polished Pro Comp wheels. Look around, you might find something you like, and remember minor cosmetic issues can be fixed with some paint.
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Will do! Thanks
 
JMT said:
The rule of thumb is the rim should be roughly half the tire size. Thus, 29’s-33’s look best with 15’s. 35’s look best with 17’s.

Keep in mind a tire on a 17” rim will cost significantly more than the same overall size tire on a 15” rim.

Another rule of thumb is Load C. Better on and off-road. Durability is not an issue.

👍🏼
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You forgot that a 35 on 17’s weighs more than a 35 on 15’s.
 
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BlueC said:
That's actually surprising. I'd figure the trade-off in rubber for metal would be a wash.
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The increase in weight of the wheel is higher than you’d think because the rim of the wheel is growing in diameter making a bigger circumference.

Sidewall doesn’t weigh that much.

A quick check also shows some wheels go to 9” when 17 vs 8” as a 15.
 
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Cheetokps said:
I’m in the same situation with stock 3.73’s and 33’s, eventually I’ll regear especially if I go to 35’s
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You won't be disappointed. Depending on how much longer you're sticking with 33s, I'd recommend re-gearing now. I wish I had done it sooner. I wheeled for alot of years on 33s with stock gears, not knowing what I was missing out on.
 
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Apparition said:
The increase in weight of the wheel is higher than you’d think because the rim of the wheel is growing in diameter making a bigger circumference.

Sidewall doesn’t weigh that much.

A quick check also shows some wheels go to 9” when 17 vs 8” as a 15.
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My Trailready beadlocks are 15 x 9 @ ~31lbs and my 17’s are 17 x 8.5 @ ~35 lbs.
 
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