Amberfire01Tj
Member
Is your number three injector insulated with heat wrap? There is a heat soak issue you on that injector.
Where can I buy this…mine does not have the insulation
Is your number three injector insulated with heat wrap? There is a heat soak issue you on that injector.
This is what you wrap around the injector, it's held on by a single nylon zip tie. This is what Jeep specified for that TSB. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007O3QHDK/?tag=wranglerorg-20Where can I buy this…mine does not have the insulation
This is what you wrap around the injector, it's held on by a single nylon zip tie. This is what Jeep specified for that TSB. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007O3QHDK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
View attachment 404590
Save your $$$, your misfires are not caused by the coil pack which puts out way more voltage than is required. But know that TJ 4.0 engines new enough to run the coil pack are exceptionally picky about what spark plugs they will run smoothly on. And there are a number of plugs found in most spark plug guides that say they're some spark plug models are correct when they're not. This problem is due to the coil rail's "waste spark" ignition design that fires the plugs every stroke.I’m thinking about Viper Coil mod as an interesting alternative to the factory version. I’m not expecting any hp increase rather hoping for a smoother idle and hopefully a more dependable coil/ignition system. Having replaced my coil pack several times trying to solve the misfire at idle I’m a bit frustrated with the factory ignition system.
What’s the corporate wisdom here. The system is currently on sale for $170.
Save your $$$, your misfires are not caused by the coil pack which puts out way more voltage than is required. But know that TJ 4.0 engines new enough to run the coil pack are exceptionally picky about what spark plugs they will run smoothly on. And there are a number of plugs found in most spark plug guides that say they're some spark plug models are correct when they're not. This problem is due to the coil rail's "waste spark" ignition design that fires the plugs every stroke.
EXACTLY what brand and model number spark plugs are installed in your engine? Single-tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite AP-985 or Champion 3034 are well known to cause hard to diagnose idle and run problems with newer engines with waste spark ignition systems like yours has. Single-tipped meaning the platinum coating is on just one side of the electrode gap. Double-tipped means the platinum coating is on both sides of the gap.
Those will not cause problems.Jerry the plugs in my 01 TJ 4.0 are Champion RC12ECC. These were replace about 6 months ago
Save your $$$, your misfires are not caused by the coil pack which puts out way more voltage than is required. But know that TJ 4.0 engines new enough to run the coil pack are exceptionally picky about what spark plugs they will run smoothly on. And there are a number of plugs found in most spark plug guides that say they're some spark plug models are correct when they're not. This problem is due to the coil rail's "waste spark" ignition design that fires the plugs every stroke.
EXACTLY what brand and model number spark plugs are installed in your engine? Single-tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite AP-985 or Champion 3034 are well known to cause hard to diagnose idle and run problems with newer engines with waste spark ignition systems like yours has. Single-tipped meaning the platinum coating is on just one side of the electrode gap. Double-tipped means the platinum coating is on both sides of the gap.
XP-985 would be my first choice too. Good luck, some misfires are really tough to fix.
Now I have something to worry about.
The original MOPARS were made in Japan. Even the MSD for the YJ was Chinese.
XP-985 would be my first choice too. Good luck, some misfires are really tough to fix.
I hate that you are having all the troubles with your jeep, I had all the same issues and did all the TSB repairs and insulation wraps. I didnt work for long. Was right back to hot again. I completely redone the cooling system , new radiator and all. That helped most. I even bought the spyder hood vent kit. I hated to cut the hood but had to be. Now she runs cool, all the hot air goes right up thru the louvered vents in the hood. No issues with over heating. How stupid can the engineers be putting the hot cats directly under the intake manifold. I hope yours gets resolved. I was not able to drive mine during the summer, July Aug and part of Sept. Now i drive it anywhere , anytime and run the air conditioner to boot even in the summer time. No issues.
Venting the hood doesn't cause or help the engine to run any cooler.I hadn’t considered upgrading the cooling system. But I have thought seriously about the Spyder Hood Vent. It seems logical to vent the heat somehow. However cutting the hood is a permanent modification, kinda like tattoos.
Venting the hood doesn't cause or help the engine to run any cooler.
Perfectly normal. Everything under the hood was designed be fine with those temperatures, just not your hand.I couldn't even touch the hood prop the other day.