Speaker and license plate question

[penn98tj]

Main question:

Recently got the 1998 TJ. Can someone get me started to upgrading the speaker system? New sound bar? New speakers in the front dash? Is the subwoofer suppose to go in the center console? Any good place to buy this crap from?

Bonus question: what bolts for the front license plate?

Thanks!

 

[macleanflood]

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ep-wrangler-tj-stereo-amps-and-speakers.7746/
Welcome to WTF!

And most of us don't have front license plates. Mine's hd on with self tappers.

-Mac

 

[JMT]

Main question:

Recently got the 1998 TJ. Can someone get me started to upgrading the speaker system? New sound bar? New speakers in the front dash? Is the subwoofer suppose to go in the center console? Any good place to buy this crap from?

Bonus question: what bolts for the front license plate?

Thanks!

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An Ace Hardware or similar will have license plate bolts in a small drawer. Ask a knowledgeable employee where and they’ll direct you. They’re not all the same, so you might have to try a couple out to see which ones fit.

Stereo

Head unit with features and capability you desire. I like the following

1. Head unit with 3 RCA outs (front, rear, sub)
2. 5channel Soundstream Picasso Nano 640D mounted under steering column. There’s a thread showing how.
3. 5.25’s in bracket to replace 4x6” in dash
4. 6.5 to replace 5.25” in soundbar
5. 8” slimline sub mounted in box custom made to fit under rear seat.

 

[Waldeck]

Welcome

My front plate at the moment is on the dash as I bent the bumper, as you do. The winch gets in the way a bit, you can get hinges to flip it up when you use the winch. As your photo, as said self tappers. Can't help with the speakers.

 

[TheBoogieman]

5.25", 6.5", two 10". Crutchfield.com.

 

[Rygrego]

Main question:

Recently got the 1998 TJ. Can someone get me started to upgrading the speaker system? New sound bar? New speakers in the front dash? Is the subwoofer suppose to go in the center console? Any good place to buy this crap from?

Bonus question: what bolts for the front license plate?

Thanks!

View attachment 415879

View attachment 415880

View attachment 415881

View attachment 415882

View attachment 415883

View attachment 415884

As far as replacement sound devices, the best place to shop is Crutchfield.com. It will save a ton of time. And they have great service.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

If you're not going to be replacing the head unit with something substantially more powerful with more wattage it's CRUCIAL to look for one key specification in any speakers you buy. If you buy speakers that push their high wattage capacity without looking at this one specification you're going to extremely disappointed with your speaker choice.

The specification you you need to pay CLOSE attention to is the speaker's Sensitivity rating and it must be from 90 to about 93 dB (decibels). That specification is how loudly the speaker will play with any given wattage. Buy speakers with too low of a Sensitivity rating with the same head unit you have and the speakers won't play loudly enough to be enjoyable. Really.

Speaker brands that typically include a 90 to 93 (or higher) Sensitivity rating mainly include Polk and Kicker. If you stick with them you will be fine.

And for every 3 dB lower Sensitivity rating, the speaker will require exactly twice as many watts to play as loudly as a speaker with a 3 dB higher sensitivity rating. For example... a speaker claiming in big letters 300 watts of power with an 87 dB Sensitivity rating will play HALF as loudly as a speaker with a 100 watt rating with a 90 dB sensitivity rating.

I'd stick with 6.5" Polk or Kicker speakers in the sound bar. For your TJ's front speakers, they have an odd-size 4x6 size. And with early model year TJs like your '98, it's not a standard 4x6 size so replacement 4x6 speakers will not have matching bolt holes. Plus oval speakers like 4x6 don't sound as good as round 5.25" speakers do. So I'd buy 5.25" round coaxial speakers with a 4x6 to 5.25" adapter plate for your front speakers which is easily found on sites like Crutchfield or Amazon.

The Sensitivity rating is not usually on the front page of a speaker's list of reasons for buying it. You'll have to look for its specifications which are sometimes a little hard to find but trust me, getting speakers with enough of a Sensitivity rating will make or break the sound level obtainable. Buying speakers with too low of a Sensitivity rating will mean they won't play loudly enough with the power available in any but the highest power head units or with the use of an auxiliary external amplifier.

Go with Polk or Kicker and you'll be fine... just double check their Sensitivity ratings as both companies make a lot of speakers and maybe some of them have reduced Sensitivity ratings.

 

[Rickyd]

If you're not going to be replacing the head unit with something substantially more powerful with more wattage it's CRUCIAL to look for one key specification in any speakers you buy. If you buy speakers that push their high wattage capacity without looking at this one specification you're going to extremely disappointed with your speaker choice.

The specification you you need to pay CLOSE attention to is the speaker's Sensitivity rating and it must be from 90 to about 93 dB (decibels). That specification is how loudly the speaker will play with any given wattage. Buy speakers with too low of a Sensitivity rating with the same head unit you have and the speakers won't play loudly enough to be enjoyable. Really.

Speaker brands that typically include a 90 to 93 (or higher) Sensitivity rating mainly include Polk and Kicker. If you stick with them you will be fine.

And for every 3 dB lower Sensitivity rating, the speaker will require exactly twice as many watts to play as loudly as a speaker with a 3 dB higher sensitivity rating. For example... a speaker claiming in big letters 300 watts of power with an 87 dB Sensitivity rating will play HALF as loudly as a speaker with a 100 watt rating with a 90 dB sensitivity rating.

I'd stick with 6.5" Polk or Kicker speakers in the sound bar. For your TJ's front speakers, they have an odd-size 4x6 size. And with early model year TJs like your '98, it's not a standard 4x6 size so replacement 4x6 speakers will not have matching bolt holes. Plus oval speakers like 4x6 don't sound as good as round 5.25" speakers do. So I'd buy 5.25" round coaxial speakers with a 4x6 to 5.25" adapter plate for your front speakers which is easily found on sites like Crutchfield or Amazon.

The Sensitivity rating is not usually on the front page of a speaker's list of reasons for buying it. You'll have to look for its specifications which are sometimes a little hard to find but trust me, getting speakers with enough of a Sensitivity rating will make or break the sound level obtainable. Buying speakers with too low of a Sensitivity rating will mean they won't play loudly enough with the power available in any but the highest power head units or with the use of an auxiliary external amplifier.

Go with Polk or Kicker and you'll be fine... just double check their Sensitivity ratings as both companies make a lot of speakers and maybe some of them have reduced Sensitivity ratings.

Thanks jerry,i didn't know that.

Sensitivity traing on WTF,who would have thought!?!

 

[WestCoastDan]

Another consideration is the rated impedance of the speaker.
Typical speakers are rated at either 4 or 8 Ohms.
This is relevant when adding “extra” speakers to your system.
For example:
When adding a second speaker to a single output, the speakers must be wired in parallel (match both + connections & both - connections from the speakers and feed them with the single output from your amp/radio).

The impedance of the combined two-speaker setup will be affected.
If both speakers are rated at 8 Ohms, wiring them in parallel will result in a 4 Ohm load on that channel.
This is likely not a big deal, but if you try to pair up a couple of 4 Ohm speakers in this way, you’ll end up with a 2 Ohm load, which most systems are not designed for.

If too low of an impedance exists on the circuit, the end result will be speakers that sound like crap at moderate to high volume.

Some amps are rated for low (1-2 Ohm) impedance, some are not.

This is where knowing the specs of all system components comes in.

It’s not hard to end up with a setup that cost a lot of money and still sounds like garbage.

 

[TJ Don]

I'd stick with 6.5" Polk or Kicker speakers in the sound bar. For your TJ's front speakers, they have an odd-size 4x6 size. And with early model year TJs like your '98, it's not a standard 4x6 size so replacement 4x6 speakers will not have matching bolt holes. Plus oval speakers like 4x6 don't sound as good as round 5.25" speakers do. So I'd buy 5.25" round coaxial speakers with a 4x6 to 5.25" adapter plate for your front speakers which is easily found on sites like Crutchfield or Amazon.

Couple weeks ago I replaced the stock soundbar speakers with these Kicker 5.25" speakers. They sound great. Ordering through Crutchfield nets the benefit of getting the OEM-to-aftermaket harness for free.

 

[SSTJ]

I know you're getting lots of info so far, so you may want to write back with more specific questions. For what it's worth, I went with Rockford Fosgate speakers and an amp. Here is my setup.

 

[penn98tj]

Couple weeks ago I replaced the stock soundbar speakers with these Kicker 5.25" speakers. They sound great. Ordering through Crutchfield nets the benefit of getting the OEM-to-aftermaket harness for free.

Is that the only change you made? My radio is very weak, looking to add a little bass without a subwoofer.

I know you're getting lots of info so far, so you may want to write back with more specific questions. For what it's worth, I went with Rockford Fosgate speakers and an amp. Here is my setup.

Really good info here.... I appreciate it.

I've seen some aftermarket sound bars where you just replace the whole thing, like this:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/14118_000_07.htm
Seems like most of you guys are just replacing the speakers in them instead of the whole thing. Any thoughts? Initially was just thinking about replacing the whole thing.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Is that the only change you made? My radio is very weak, looking to add a little bass without a subwoofer.

Seems like most of you guys are just replacing the speakers in them instead of the whole thing. Any thoughts? Initially was just thinking about replacing the whole thing.

It could be nothing more than the previous owner installed the wrong speakers that had a very low Sensitivity rating like I described above. If he did, that would account for the low speaker volume it sounds like you are experiencing. If so, replacing the speakers with Polk or Kicker replacements could provide a dramatic improvement.

 

[SSTJ]

Is that the only change you made? My radio is very weak, looking to add a little bass without a subwoofer.



Really good info here.... I appreciate it.

I've seen some aftermarket sound bars where you just replace the whole thing, like this:
[URL]https://www.quadratec.com/products/14118_000_07.htm[/URL]

Seems like most of you guys are just replacing the speakers in them instead of the whole thing. Any thoughts? Initially was just thinking about replacing the whole thing.

I've never looked into the aftermarket sound bars so I can't say. But IMO it would all depend upon the quality of the speakers that they come with. The sound bar itself is just a mount, and sort of a baffle, for whatever speakers are in there.

 

[penn98tj]

It could be nothing more than the previous owner installed the wrong speakers that had a very low Sensitivity rating like I described above. If he did, that would account for the low speaker volume it sounds like you are experiencing. If so, replacing the speakers with Polk or Kicker replacements could provide a dramatic improvement.

I've never looked into the aftermarket sound bars so I can't say. But IMO it would all depend upon the quality of the speakers that they come with. The sound bar itself is just a mount, and sort of a baffle, for whatever speakers are in there.

Thanks for the info. SSTJ, you had some links to a lot of really great stuff with what you did with your TJ. Looking to go back to a stock radio. I'm looking at the RAZ CD/cassette (P04704383) which I believe is what you did. 1factoryradio has none in stock but there are some on ebay. Any regrets going this direction? Do you stream from your phone at all? FM transmitter gizmo?

For the speakers, I am thinking upgrading them with these:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_2X0_PG.htmhttps://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_2X1_PG.htm
Am I on the right track here? Do I need an amp with this setup? Poking around these threads, I am thinking I don't need one.

Thanks for the help on this thread. Looking to pull the trigger on this stuff.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Those rear speakers only have an 88 dB Sensitivity rating, Kicker makes them with a higher like 90 dB sensitivity rating that would sound better/louder with a stock radio without an aux amplifier. I'd shop on Crutchfield for things like that, Quadratec is not a good source for audio gear. Especially since their sales reps are typically clueless on the finer points of speaker selection, especially the Sensitivity rating which is very important unless you're running an external aux amplifier that puts out more power than a typical head unit does..

 

[SSTJ]

Thanks for the info. SSTJ, you had some links to a lot of really great stuff with what you did with your TJ. Looking to go back to a stock radio. I'm looking at the RAZ CD/cassette (P04704383) which I believe is what you did. 1factoryradio has none in stock but there are some on ebay. Any regrets going this direction? Do you stream from your phone at all? FM transmitter gizmo?

For the speakers, I am thinking upgrading them with these:
[URL]https://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_2X0_PG.htm[/URL]
[URL]https://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_2X1_PG.htm[/URL]

Am I on the right track here? Do I need an amp with this setup? Poking around these threads, I am thinking I don't need one.

Thanks for the help on this thread. Looking to pull the trigger on this stuff.

Hey, glad those links were helpful.

Yes, I have bought off of eBay before. No regrets there. If you PM me I can also share the number of a friend who parts out XJs regularly, and sold me a stock stereo for a good price. He seems to see a lot of them.

For streaming, I just use one of those good old cassette-tape adapters. From what I've read, they're a little better than the FM transmitters. But most of my music is on CDs, which is actually better quality than most Bluetooth streaming devices, or at least was when I last read up on their comparisons. Of course if you do get an amp eventually, you can get one with Bluetooth streaming or AUX input. And as you know from sites like 1factoryradio, there are ways to put AUX input in a stock stereo. And then there are other approaches that I linked on that page of mine.

Keep in mind that the stock stereo is weak, and so Jerry's advice about sensitivity is key. I ended up installing an amp so that I could get the most out of some slightly higher-end speakers.

I don't know about those speakers in particular, but I agree with Jerry that I'd order from Crutchfield before I'd order from Quadratech. Such great customer support at Crutchfield. One call with them could put your mind at ease about which speakers to choose.

 

[Shank]

If you're not going to be replacing the head unit with something substantially more powerful with more wattage it's CRUCIAL to look for one key specification in any speakers you buy. If you buy speakers that push their high wattage capacity without looking at this one specification you're going to extremely disappointed with your speaker choice.

The specification you you need to pay CLOSE attention to is the speaker's Sensitivity rating and it must be from 90 to about 93 dB (decibels). That specification is how loudly the speaker will play with any given wattage. Buy speakers with too low of a Sensitivity rating with the same head unit you have and the speakers won't play loudly enough to be enjoyable. Really.

Speaker brands that typically include a 90 to 93 (or higher) Sensitivity rating mainly include Polk and Kicker. If you stick with them you will be fine.

And for every 3 dB lower Sensitivity rating, the speaker will require exactly twice as many watts to play as loudly as a speaker with a 3 dB higher sensitivity rating. For example... a speaker claiming in big letters 300 watts of power with an 87 dB Sensitivity rating will play HALF as loudly as a speaker with a 100 watt rating with a 90 dB sensitivity rating.

I'd stick with 6.5" Polk or Kicker speakers in the sound bar. For your TJ's front speakers, they have an odd-size 4x6 size. And with early model year TJs like your '98, it's not a standard 4x6 size so replacement 4x6 speakers will not have matching bolt holes. Plus oval speakers like 4x6 don't sound as good as round 5.25" speakers do. So I'd buy 5.25" round coaxial speakers with a 4x6 to 5.25" adapter plate for your front speakers which is easily found on sites like Crutchfield or Amazon.

The Sensitivity rating is not usually on the front page of a speaker's list of reasons for buying it. You'll have to look for its specifications which are sometimes a little hard to find but trust me, getting speakers with enough of a Sensitivity rating will make or break the sound level obtainable. Buying speakers with too low of a Sensitivity rating will mean they won't play loudly enough with the power available in any but the highest power head units or with the use of an auxiliary external amplifier.

Go with Polk or Kicker and you'll be fine... just double check their Sensitivity ratings as both companies make a lot of speakers and maybe some of them have reduced Sensitivity ratings.

Which sensitivity are you looking at?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

View attachment 419868

Which sensitivity are you looking at?

If you truly understood the end effect of a speaker's sensitivity you'd realize that those charts aren't giving the entire story. Sensitivity is a speaker's SPL (sound pressure level) at 1 meter with 1 watt driving it, not whatever that final column of numbers is saying which makes no sense.

FYI... https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025619391-Speaker-Sensitivity#:~:text=Speaker sensitivity—many times erroneously,power input from an amplifier.

 

[Shank]

If you truly understood the end effect of a speaker's sensitivity you'd realize that those charts aren't giving the entire story. Sensitivity is a speaker's SPL (sound pressure level) at 1 meter with 1 watt driving it, not whatever that final column of numbers is saying which makes no sense.

FYI... https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025619391-Speaker-Sensitivity#:~:text=Speaker sensitivity—many times erroneously,power input from an amplifier.

If I did I probably wouldn’t have asked.