I see you already saw this thread from a year ago but in case it dropped off your radar.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nsg370-to-ax15-swap.61396/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nsg370-to-ax15-swap.61396/
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
OP
The AX-15 swap is quite a bit easier than a 42rle. In the end I'd need to re-gear either way. In either case I'd re-gear to 5.13. To do the 42rle swap would be easiest if I bought a donor rig so they're sitting side by side. The only problem there is whether it's worth it to swap my NSG-370 into the other rig without having it rebuilt, which would be expensive. I've been watching for a donor rig either way, or I could just steal one of the two sitting out front.
I don't really have any good choices. My NSG-370 is crap to a new owner. My cheapest option is to have the NSG-370 rebuilt. I think with the upgraded internals it's a solid transmission.
The AX-15 swap is quite a bit easier than a 42rle. In the end I'd need to re-gear either way. In either case I'd re-gear to 5.13. To do the 42rle swap would be easiest if I bought a donor rig so they're sitting side by side. The only problem there is whether it's worth it to swap my NSG-370 into the other rig without having it rebuilt, which would be expensive. I've been watching for a donor rig either way, or I could just steal one of the two sitting out front.
Yep. Also, the downside of a donner rig is it's likely going to have 100k plus miles on it and you'll have zero idea of the maintenance. While an auto swap would be nice for a situation like rocker knocker a regear to 5.13 and a shiny new AX15 would likely get the job done. Annoyingly though it looks like an ax15 with a 4:1 TC and 5.13 gears would get you a crawl ratio of 78:1. which is less than your NSG-370 and 4.56 which currently sits at 81:1. Don't know about you but that would really annoy me.
Looks like it's a math problem.
Regear - roughly 2k (needed for auto and manual swap)
ax15 new: 2,500 (likely all in??)
auto swap (need to find a donor you can likely strip because the value will be less with your nsg370 + time and effort)
Reman nsg370 - quick search finds $3,200 from reman transmission. Link
Another option is getting a quote from aamco or something similar to rebuild or replace. I'm assuming they'd warranty their work and it's a larger national chain. They'd likely give you a discount if you pulled and installed yourself but not sure how the warranty would be affected.
After writing this and thinking about it a bit more I'd have a really hard time taking out the nsg370 dumping 4500-ish on a regear and an ax15 just to be a bit less off than I was prior.
If it was me I'd call my local shop and figure out what they'd want to rebuild the current unit. Seems like just replacing the trans is a much smaller can of worms.
You could probably task the boys with parting out a donor if you offer them a commission to take some of the workload off but then you'll need to explain why you have a stripped TJ sitting in the driveway to the wife.
I call dibs on any straight section of frame material you don't want
I call dibs on any straight section of frame material you don't want
The AX-15 swap is quite a bit easier than a 42rle. In the end I'd need to re-gear either way. In either case I'd re-gear to 5.13. To do the 42rle swap would be easiest if I bought a donor rig so they're sitting side by side. The only problem there is whether it's worth it to swap my NSG-370 into the other rig without having it rebuilt, which would be expensive. I've been watching for a donor rig either way, or I could just steal one of the two sitting out front.
Or just do a 4L80 or 6L80 swap with accompanying additional cylinders.
he already has the donor vehicle for that swap.....
OP
"Babe, you know my R sucks. This is what I have to do to fix it!"
Here's to another year of making crap up.
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OP
I thought about it about 50 times. It's sitting right there and she wants a JLU.
OP
I'll have to do a tranny swap at some point. Since I'm not wanting to take this rig much further, I think I'll just get a remanufactured NSG370 and call it good. If I want to build another rig I'll do an LJ on tons and fodeez with a hemi and stretch. Hi Jeff.
OP
You at least understand which engine is the correct one for your LJ project..
The heavy one. Did you see the control arms it takes to support it?
You could probably task the boys with parting out a donor if you offer them a commission to take some of the workload off but then you'll need to explain why you have a stripped TJ sitting in the driveway to the wife.
I call dibs on any straight section of frame material you don't want
Are you going from Alex-01 to Alex-TJ6?
OP
My neighbor stopped by and said, “ What broke now?” I said, “Nothing broke, I’m just fixing stuff.” So it is with a Jeep.
Fixed lots of things. Brake lights weren’t working. It’s been an issue since Moab when Alex and I did the GR fenders and corner armor.
On the 05’s you have the evap in the rear passenger corner. I’ve had to remove it a few times in the last few weeks because I was in Moab and in a hurry. I wanted to get in to work on the rear brake lights, setup a license plate light for the tailgate, and clean up the connectors.
For the license plate light I wanted to ground it to the inner tailgate and get power from the tail light wire on the passenger side using one of the stock center brake light connectors at the tailgate hinge. I unplugged it on the backside and soldered a wire into a bullet connector that tied into the tail light. Worked like a charm. @Alex01 will be pleased I got good waterproof connectors on.
Fixed lots of things. Brake lights weren’t working. It’s been an issue since Moab when Alex and I did the GR fenders and corner armor.
On the 05’s you have the evap in the rear passenger corner. I’ve had to remove it a few times in the last few weeks because I was in Moab and in a hurry. I wanted to get in to work on the rear brake lights, setup a license plate light for the tailgate, and clean up the connectors.
For the license plate light I wanted to ground it to the inner tailgate and get power from the tail light wire on the passenger side using one of the stock center brake light connectors at the tailgate hinge. I unplugged it on the backside and soldered a wire into a bullet connector that tied into the tail light. Worked like a charm. @Alex01 will be pleased I got good waterproof connectors on.
OP
Also used some fabric paint to darken the roll bar covers above the driver and passenger side.
So,,,ahhh,,,,you see them better so as not to trip over them the next time you are upside down?
Edit: I need to consider this for my rig….
OP
So,,,ahhh,,,,you see them better so as not to trip over them the next time you are upside down?
Edit: I need to consider this for my rig….
Here’s the roll bar padding in the dirt again for Redrock memorial sake. The rear are ripped in several places behind the B Pilar. They won’t be going back on. But the fronts are black!
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OP
I’ve got a few things to knock out this Spring/Summer.
- Paint the corner armor Flame Red. I’m trying to source some paint now.
- Rear frame tuck
- Relocate rear upper spring perches
- Gas tank filler correction for overflow (planning the last three as part of the same project while the gas tank is dropped)
- New oil pan and RMS if it’s leaking
- Cut exhaust in front of skid and use a bracket to put it back together to make it easier to drop in the future (credit to @Irun for this idea)
- At that point everything will be right except the transmission R. The rest of the gears are great, so I’m trying to figure out some solution that’s not $2000+.