You drove the TJ to Moab for that trip, right? I’m sure that made the flop a little more stressful.
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
You drove the TJ to Moab for that trip, right? I’m sure that made the flop a little more stressful.
Yes, I drove 1,000 miles to get there and 1,000 back. I was a little worried the day after the flop on Pritchett, and it messed with my head. By that point I was mentally wanting to be home. I think I said to Alex as we set off to do Pritchett, “What are we doing on this trail?” I wasn’t in a good state of mind, but I made it through and got home!
Nice trailer BTW. Real nice!
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Wow. Somehow I thought you were a little closer to Moab. 1000 miles in my TJ, at least would either need to be broken up into a bunch of days or it would soul sucking. I drove it just 3 hrs to Portland last fall for a 2 day work thing because my Mustang was apart. It was fun but tiring. Its amazing how much louder it is at 80 vs 55 or 60. So yeah, 1000 miles? trailer please. But, strong work!
Thx re the trailer. Should be good
Last week I needed some more primer. 2K high build urethane. Went to local Napa for a gallon and a qt of activator it was $419 out the door!
Thought that was insane. Their response was "everything is high".
Got on ebay and a place out of colorado shipped to me the same product in two days for...$152.
I'll be needing GM victory red soon and I'm seeing it's available as a "factory packed" color from vendors on ebay also.
Going to KC's Auto Paint Supply on Thursday. The guy said 15-20 minutes for a cheaper paint that is an ok match. 2 days for a more expensive paint that is a perfect match. GenRight A-Pillar Armor was sanded. I didn't do mutch with the backside, but the front I took one of them to 600 grit and the other to 1000 before self-etch priming. Sort of a test to see which is better.
I’ve always used 400 grit before paint, too fine doesn’t allow good adhesion.
Next I’ll mount these and get the nutserts installed. Then I’ll topcoat the back. Once I get them installed I’ll topcoat and 2K gloss clear them. Wonder how much this paint is going to cost?
I’ve read everything from 300-600, so
. I’ll see what happens.Looking up again, yeah, probably went too fine on the 1,000 for sure. Oh well, here I am. Live and learn.
Might look better when you re-do it.
Won't hurt and won't take more than a few minutes to rough it up at 400 and re-Self-Etch Prime.
Oh boy, I'm so excited. I don't think I'm dropping more than $250 on this, so I'll see how he prices out the cheap vs the expensive and whatever is in-between. He recommended against having it canned as aerosols, so that means buying an HVLP from HF, which is sub $50.
Oh, I remember, but that's an awesome sticker, so it won't hurt anything to get one!
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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Many places are raising prices just because they think they can. For the first time in a long time I think twice now before making purchases. It must really suck for the small honest businesses!
This made me laugh, because I wheel with a guy that I have to constantly remind him of exactly this!
Looks like I’ll be getting an HVLP gun and painting the corner armor soon.
Took it to KC’s Auto Paint. After taking some time to sort out which camera she wanted to use, the girl took a pic of the paint. She used two different methods on the computer to see which one looked closest. One method uses the factory paint code and adjusts from that. The other doesn’t use the code. She asked me which one I wanted while explaining that the one that did not use the code was basically a perfect match. Of course, that’s the one I want. She explained that some people want the original factory paint code version anyway (for full car restorations). Then there’s a deviation scale of 0-5 and she said anything under 1 was very good. Mine was 0.4. She suspects it will be a perfect match. I grabbed some weld thru primer too since I’ve got the frame tuck project coming up end of next month. The people at KC’s were very knowledgeable and helpful! Oh, and the price for 1 qt color, the clear, and the self etch was $235 out the door. Not bad.
Took it to KC’s Auto Paint. After taking some time to sort out which camera she wanted to use, the girl took a pic of the paint. She used two different methods on the computer to see which one looked closest. One method uses the factory paint code and adjusts from that. The other doesn’t use the code. She asked me which one I wanted while explaining that the one that did not use the code was basically a perfect match. Of course, that’s the one I want. She explained that some people want the original factory paint code version anyway (for full car restorations). Then there’s a deviation scale of 0-5 and she said anything under 1 was very good. Mine was 0.4. She suspects it will be a perfect match. I grabbed some weld thru primer too since I’ve got the frame tuck project coming up end of next month. The people at KC’s were very knowledgeable and helpful! Oh, and the price for 1 qt color, the clear, and the self etch was $235 out the door. Not bad.