Disassembly Order Cooling System?

[Rick2004LJ]

Edit to add Jeep Info - 2004 LJ 4.0, 4.5" long arm, 1.25 body lift, automatic - PO was original owner and his 3 girls drove the jeep as DD, only had a 3" lift & 33's when I got it at 120K. So scary that kids drove it but girls a little less likely to destroy. The good news is the Dad fixed every little thing that ever happened and did religious maintenance - we will see if water pump etc. looks stock...

Diving into Cooling System Replacement This morning - Radiator, Fan Clutch, Water Pump Thermostat/Housing/Gasket, All hoses etc. System has been properly flushed. No I am not replacing heater core at this time.

Is there a preferred Order to start pulling stuff off or, maybe more importantly, reassembly?

Any final can't miss, save me busted knuckles, save me 5 trips to the parts store, avoid the 5 hour goof, advise?

Thanks

 

[TheBoogieman]

Everything is easier to get to with the radiator out. Out first, In last.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I detach the fan shroud first, hang it on the fan. Pull radiator, then shroud should come out between fan and condenser (if not, remove belt and then remove fan and shroud together). Remove belt, fan, pulley, thermostat housing, then water pump.

If you have the early model then I like to have a serpentine belt tension gauge, you can buy at NAPA for about $13. Later models tension themselves, but later models have a fan clutch that threads into some big threads on the pump instead of sharing the pulley bolts, so you need a tool to hold the water pump still while you remove the fan clutch.

 

[Rick2004LJ]

I detach the fan shroud first, hang it on the fan. Pull radiator, then shroud should come out between fan and condenser (if not, remove belt and then remove fan and shroud together). Remove belt, fan, pulley, thermostat housing, then water pump.

If you have the early model then I like to have a serpentine belt tension gauge, you can buy at NAPA for about $13. Later models tension themselves, but later models have a fan clutch that threads into some big threads on the pump instead of sharing the pulley bolts, so you need a tool to hold the water pump still while you remove the fan clutch.

Perfect thanks! I have a 2004 which has a tensioner so that will be easy. I am a little worried about getting fan clutch off. I have heard a bunch of ways to hold pump nut what is the consensus on best/easiest way?

 

[Rick2004LJ]

One other thing. The radiator coming out is an aftermarket aluminum put in by PO, which has remarkably been solid and has no leaks since I bought it in 2018 so 4-5 years of hard wheeling in hot weather.

Any issues going from aftermarket back to OEM?

Should have said this earlier - Jeep is a 2004 LJ, 4 1/2" longarm, 1.25" body lift.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Perfect thanks! I have a 2004 which has a tensioner so that will be easy. I am a little worried about getting fan clutch off. I have heard a bunch of ways to hold pump nut what is the consensus on best/easiest way?

O'Reilly and AutoZone both rent out a tool that holds the water pump pulley by the bolts, and sell, separately, a wrench extension to go onto a breaker bar to turn the fan clutch nut. I was worried about it too but mine actually came off pretty easily with the tool. I had tried holding it still by pulling additional tension on the belt but it wasn't enough.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

One other thing. The radiator coming out is an aftermarket aluminum put in by PO, which has remarkably been solid and has no leaks since I bought it in 2018 so 4-5 years of hard wheeling in hot weather.

Any issues going from aftermarket back to OEM?

Should have said this earlier - Jeep is a 2004 LJ, 4 1/2" longarm, 1.25" body lift.

If it's an actual Mopar radiator, no issues. They have proven themselves to outlast and outperform any aftermarket option available.