Basic wiring connector and terminal questions, product related

bucky said:
The issue with solder when it’s used is people use the wrong type of solder and procedure for doing it. I use heat shrink that has an internal sealant inside. I can’t remember the last time I soldered a wire. Thanks to PEX I only solder pipe when doing a repair.

Picture is the crimper I use all the time. In fact I used it yesterday to butt connect the 26ga or so wires on a security camera.

View attachment 436675
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The biggest issue is even done well, it is still a soldered connection.
 
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C.J. Roberts said:
Then he has to cut off the crimp and do it again. And if he only has enough splices to do the job, he's screwed until he can get more. That's why I buy them by the bag full. I KNOW that during a big job I'll do it at least once.
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This would be more fun iffen ya'll had to run the tech side contacts from the customer for a product you sell. I don't want them to do it at least once. I want it reasonably simple and effective plus I know how I do things. If someone messes up a few crimps and I get the contact about it, I'm not going to charge to send out a few more and that's dumb on many levels.
 
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4045
Link works for me?

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P man said:
I personally wont use anything but an un-insulated quality butt connector with heat shrink OR a quality butt connector with the heat shrink already installed and you just have to get it hot.
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We are the same. The issue with sending out the heat shrink separate is someone has to cut it to the correct length in a quality version. That person is not me.

I prefer the solid or brazed barrel uninsulated with separately applied adhesive lined heat shrink. That just isn't a good production solution.
P man said:
I will not use anything bulky or hokey like those trailer type connectors that snap onto existing wires and you fold the backs over.
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Tee Taps are sometimes the only way you can do something so we use some quality versions. Last resort only type stuff.
P man said:
I do know that alot of jeep people are happy with whatever gets the job done the easiest and quickest but that's not me. I want quality and durability. It would be impossible to say if I am your minority or majority customer though
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I'm trying to figure it out.
 
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mrblaine said:
That's the tub side, we use the other side on the light and I'm guessing you missed the picture somehow?
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Re read your first post. Sounds like you don’t want to do the assembly yourself on the wiring. Disregard.
 
C.J. Roberts said:
Then he has to cut off the crimp and do it again. And if he only has enough splices to do the job, he's screwed until he can get more. That's why I buy them by the bag full. I KNOW that during a big job I'll do it at least once.
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mrblaine said:
This would be more fun iffen ya'll had to run the tech side contacts from the customer for a product you sell. I don't want them to do it at least once. I want it reasonably simple and effective plus I know how I do things. If someone messes up a few crimps and I get the contact about it, I'm not going to charge to send out a few more and that's dumb on many levels.
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I understand what you mean. I was not suggesting that this is the answer you're looking for. I've done a fair bit of wiring on MY Jeep, and made the mistake more than once.
 
CreepinDeth said:
Im curious why you perceive this as a bad thing.
All printed circuit board terminations are soldered in small electronics

Why is it bad in your eyes for terminals?
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Soldered connections and vibrations don't play well together.

PCB soldering is a completely different beast.. Can't compare that to the DIY soldering that most of us do in the garage.
 
Just for asking, what kind of side marker lights are the customers going to be using? Same with the license plate light. Maybe you could supply both, pre wired as a part of the kit. That way, the customer would only have to drill a few holes, and then plug the connectors that come with the lights together.
 
psrivats said:
Soldered connections and vibrations don't play well together.

PCB soldering is a completely different beast.. Can't compare that to the DIY soldering that most of us do in the garage.
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Where are you getting this from?
I guess I dont follow

Every vehicle electronic device including a PCM /ECM, BCM, stereos etc has soldered terminations. Humans are involved in some of these as well on production lines overseas and domestic, as well as some automation

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public2/electrical-connections-1.cfm
Now if the point is most people cant solder correctly, THAT i get and could agree. However soldering terminations holds up fine in plenty of vehicles for generations

I have rewired 2 classics front to rear with new American Autowore harnesses, all soldered, metripack/weatherpack & ZERO issues. I still own them both and they get abused
 
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CreepinDeth said:
Im curious why you perceive this as a bad thing.
All printed circuit board terminations are soldered in small electronics

Why is it bad in your eyes for terminals?
Click to expand...

Soldering wicks solder down into the wire inside the insulation. That leaves a hard stress riser at the end of the solder. Vibration will break the wire at the end of the solder. Also precisely why the OEM uses crimp style terminals with a secondary strain relief crimp ring around the insulation.

Again, we have to stay in context. Yes, all PCB's are soldered. The small bits of wire that extend from the various bits on the circuit boards are not very long at all, so there is small chance of vibration working the soldered item back and forth to damage either the wire or the soldered connection to the trace. When that does become an issue due to an automotive type application where vibration does have the opportunity to affect the part, then it is potted to prevent that from happening.
 
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CreepinDeth said:
Where are you getting this from?
I guess I dont follow

Every vehicle electronic device including a PCM /ECM, BCM, stereos etc has soldered terminations. Humans are involved in some of these as well on production lines overseas and domestic, as well as some automation

[URL]http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public2/electrical-connections-1.cfm[/URL]

Now if the point is most people cant solder correctly, THAT i get and could agree. However soldering terminations holds up fine in plenty of vehicles for generations

I have rewired 2 classics front to rear with new American Autowore harnesses, all soldered, metripack/weatherpack & ZERO issues. I still own them both and they get abused
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A statistical sample of two is fully meaningless against literally billions of examples to the contrary on the OEM side. They crimp almost exclusively. We do tons of wiring, we do not solder unless it is a last resort and we have zero comebacks on wiring and we aren't even particularly good. We are average, Lou above is a pro that does it for a living and we are nowhere near as good as he is but we have solid practices that work.
 
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