Looks like the output shaft seal, or the t-case input seal. I don't think there's anything higher up at the back of the case.
What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
Looks like the output shaft seal, or the t-case input seal. I don't think there's anything higher up at the back of the case.
I spent quite a bit of time chasing a leak coming from the same spot. You will need to remove the transfer case. Before you do, check the fluid level in the transfer case to verify that is low. Check the transmission too. It could be one of two seals. Either the input seal to the transfer case, or the seal at the transmission output shaft of the transmission at the far end of the adapter housing. While it's apart I would replace both. Check the input shaft of the transfer case for wear before replacing seal.
I'm 90% sure it is the transmission seal. I replaced all the fluid a couple of months ago. This is for both the TC and the trans, and the trans dropped about a quart of oil in a month.
Right now, I'm trying to figure out when I want to do this. I can't do it the next 2 weekends. IT may have to wait until Thanksgiving which is when I also want to replace the heater core. Having no heater in the winter in Colorado is not ideal.
Cheap Autozone for now. My daughter lives 4 hours away and didn't decide to tell me she was having issues until she visited for the weekend. I didn't have time to get one from RockAuto in time. I'll order a Mopar unit and replace that $15.00 Autozone unit when she comes home for Thanksgiving.
Capt'n
TJ Enthusiast
Started the process…. New oil pan will be going in & new gasket, plus a new rear main seal…. And, dropped the skid plate… (new one coming), dropped the front & rear driveshafts… (Tom Woods Drive Shaft replacements coming) and started to clean up the frame….
Capt'n
TJ Enthusiast
I just am hoping that I’ll get it done right the first time…. I’ve put it off for a couple years now….
I saw my old TJ last night. I don't think the guy has washed it since I sold it to him 7 years ago. Good thing it was raining. 
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Not sure if that was a joke but I have one if you need it, I replaced the u-joints and unit bearing about two years ago but the jeep sat for just over a year while I did an engine replacement. It does not have the rubber boot though
after my engine replacement I went with tom woods shafts.
Once you do what @MountaineerTom suggested about
Alternatively you can give the case a good dusting with a powder, like Gold Bond. The powder will show where the leak is starting and it'll wipe/wash off easily.
At this point, i'm 90% sure the leak is coming from the weep hole at the back of the transmission which looks to be the transmission rear shaft output seal or the TC input seal. I'm going to do the powder test tomorrow to narrow it down 100%,
If it is one of these seals, then that will be a job for the week of Thanksgiving.
Sorry, I was late to the thread and sharing that technique, hope you get it figured out.
no worries. i've posted a lot over the last few pages. I ended up taking off the skid plate and just seeing where the fluid drops down. A bit more work, but easier to really track it down. luckily I have a 2nd car while the Jeep is in the garage with a jack stand under the transmission.
Parts bonded and assembly installed. Now we dance!
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Front loader was a good revision, I think.
Quick one month functionality update on the cabin air intake duct/filter design. At least 500 miles logged since installation, and while I haven't run the AC for all of those miles, a number of 1-2 hour trips with the AC running at all fan settings. Temps ranging from 90+ to high 40's/low 50's. Mix of dry and wet weather over the month. Mostly road use but some dirt and gravel use as well.
Observations when opening the cowl this morning for a look-see:
- ABS plastic prototype assembly shows no signs of damage due to exposure to temperatures and vibrations - appears "as installed"
- All subcomponents appear to be functioning as intended, no cracking or splitting at joints or anywhere else
- K&N VF1010 filter appears to be relatively clean and free of debris
- Hint of rust on cartridge housing speed nut, no surprise and nothing I'm worried about. Factory speed nuts for the cowl panel look far worse.
- Filter housing and duct beyond filter show no signs of air leakage inside (no trace dirt)
- Foam seal seems to be doing it's job, no evidence of water infiltration between duct and sub cowl, no water in footwell from the cowl
- No evidence of contact with underside of cowl panel, the design seems to give sufficient clearance to any existing physical features
I realize this isn't a long term test, but I think I'll leave that up to whoever might be interested in trying out the design for themselves. I've got a few minor modifications I'm making to some of the parts to improve the overall design. I may create a cartridge box that will accept standard filters as this one is specific to the VF1010 and I realize some might not want to spend the loot for the K&N. I'm also considering an optional cartridge box door/air horn design that may improve weather proofing even more (though this has not been an issue for me personally).
Beyond that, I'll likely upload all of the files here for anyone with a 3D printer to download and try out, along with some caveats and tips for printing, assembly and installation.
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Quick one month functionality update on the cabin air intake duct/filter design. At least 500 miles logged since installation, and while I haven't run the AC for all of those miles, a number of 1-2 hour trips with the AC running at all fan settings. Temps ranging from 90+ to high 40's/low 50's. Mix of dry and wet weather over the month. Mostly road use but some dirt and gravel use as well.
Observations when opening the cowl this morning for a look-see:
Slight musty smell detected when running the system from cold, in particular after a stretch of wet weather. The odor dissipates after a few seconds. I believe this has nothing to do with the duct/filter and everything to do with the sub cowl being a bit of a breeding ground for funk since it tends to stay wet/damp long after the weather passes. For reference, I had an '07 BMW E90 and that thing smelled like a farm yard every time I used the system, even with a fresh filter and Lysol-disinfected ducting. Not too worried about the Jeep.
- ABS plastic prototype assembly shows no signs of damage due to exposure to temperatures and vibrations - appears "as installed"
- All subcomponents appear to be functioning as intended, no cracking or splitting at joints or anywhere else
- K&N VF1010 filter appears to be relatively clean and free of debris
- Hint of rust on cartridge housing speed nut, no surprise and nothing I'm worried about. Factory speed nuts for the cowl panel look far worse.
- Filter housing and duct beyond filter show no signs of air leakage inside (no trace dirt)
- Foam seal seams to be doing it's job, no evidence of water infiltration between duct and sub cowl, no water in footwell from the cowl
- No evidence of contact with underside of cowl panel, the design seems to give sufficient clearance to any existing physical features
I realize this isn't a long term test, but I think I'll leave that up to whoever might be interested in trying out the design for themselves. I've got a few minor modifications I'm making to some of the parts to improve the overall design. I may create a cartridge box that will accept standard filters as this one is specific to the VF1010 and I realize some might not want to spend the loot for the K&N. I'm also considering an optional cartridge box door/air horn design that may improve weather proofing even more (though this has not been an issue for me personally).
Beyond that, I'll likely upload all of the files here for anyone with a 3D printer to download and try out, along with some caveats and tips for printing, assembly and installation.
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CreepinDeth
TJ Addict
Might not be the case anymore, but recoring and repairing radiators used to be a thing. Though thinking about it some, I can't recall the last time I saw a sign for a radiator shop....
Planned Obsolesence and “Made in China” has ran them out of business
I drove to the tattoo shop. Local Jeep club was having an event there for either check engine light tattoos or Jeep grilles and since my check engine light either doesn’t work or maybe my jeep just runs fine I went with the grille lol
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