This should go without saying, I WILL NOT be using my 30/44 axles…
If you want to read the giant post below to understand where my ideas are coming from, please do so. If not, in a nutshell:
I have an LJ with a 4” lift and a 1.25” body lift, on the stock wheelbase (103-104?). Keeping the suspension and body lift, what would be the appropriate wheelbase and (EDIT) overall width for tires ranging from 37-40”?
For the long winded explanation…
My ’05 LJ is currently on 35s, 4” short arm/1.25 BL and tummy tuck, 73.5” (EDIT) overall width.
I bent my LP30 in Oregon a few years back, and replaced it with a trussed/gusseted HP30. A few months later, I chipped the ring gear teeth in Moab. Then this past EJS, I bent the housing again, despite the truss/gussets. Obviously, the 30 isn’t cutting it for me. So my first problem is a weak front axle, and a rear that probably isn’t that much better.
Second is my departure. I have a 32 gallon Genright tank, which is great for long trips and remote trails, but awful for wheeling. I often slam down on it and my rear bumper. I MIGHT be able to raise the tank up a bit because of the BL, and maybe raise the bumper too. Maybe.
Last, my short arms don’t seem to give me a lot of articulation, I often feel more tippy than I’d like on some trails in Moab.
So in order, I’m looking to:
Upgrade my front (and rear) axle strength
Improve my approach/departure angle
Gain more articulation/travel
With all that being said… how can I accomplish this?
If I keep the 35s, I figure a ECGS 489 axle would be the best bet, or alternatively JK/JL Rubicon axles. That fixes my axle strength issue.
I don’t think 37s will be a night and day difference for my departure issues, but it should help a little bit. I’m not entirely convinced a 489 front/rear will survive with 37s, though. I could go to 60s, but that might not fit with my 32 gallon tank, and I’ll lose a lot of diff clearance. At least I should be able to keep my wheelbase, right?
With 39/40s, I know I’ll have to stretch my wheelbase, and lose the 32 gallon tank for a 26. But how much stretch is needed? And I'll need 60s at minimum, if not larger in the rear.
Unfortunatly, I live in Washington, where fender flares are a must. My tentative plan is to go from the 6.5” flares I have to 7” flares, and do the DIY AEV highline. I figure that’s about 2-3” more clearance? And approximately 74” tire coverage. State law says full coverage is necessary, though no one follows it. I figure I could probably get away with a 76” (EDIT) overall width, 78” max. Also, I want to stay somewhat narrow for some of the trails up here, hence no more lift, and only highlines.
For articulation, I know long arms aren’t well received here, which is why I went with (Currie) short arms. And though I’ve never been hung up on them, I am left somewhat wanting in the area of travel and smoothness. When talking about tires larger than 35, and wheelbases greater than 103, should I be looking into mid arms? Or at this point are long arms okay?
If you want to read the giant post below to understand where my ideas are coming from, please do so. If not, in a nutshell:
I have an LJ with a 4” lift and a 1.25” body lift, on the stock wheelbase (103-104?). Keeping the suspension and body lift, what would be the appropriate wheelbase and (EDIT) overall width for tires ranging from 37-40”?
For the long winded explanation…
My ’05 LJ is currently on 35s, 4” short arm/1.25 BL and tummy tuck, 73.5” (EDIT) overall width.
I bent my LP30 in Oregon a few years back, and replaced it with a trussed/gusseted HP30. A few months later, I chipped the ring gear teeth in Moab. Then this past EJS, I bent the housing again, despite the truss/gussets. Obviously, the 30 isn’t cutting it for me. So my first problem is a weak front axle, and a rear that probably isn’t that much better.
Second is my departure. I have a 32 gallon Genright tank, which is great for long trips and remote trails, but awful for wheeling. I often slam down on it and my rear bumper. I MIGHT be able to raise the tank up a bit because of the BL, and maybe raise the bumper too. Maybe.
Last, my short arms don’t seem to give me a lot of articulation, I often feel more tippy than I’d like on some trails in Moab.
So in order, I’m looking to:
Upgrade my front (and rear) axle strength
Improve my approach/departure angle
Gain more articulation/travel
With all that being said… how can I accomplish this?
If I keep the 35s, I figure a ECGS 489 axle would be the best bet, or alternatively JK/JL Rubicon axles. That fixes my axle strength issue.
I don’t think 37s will be a night and day difference for my departure issues, but it should help a little bit. I’m not entirely convinced a 489 front/rear will survive with 37s, though. I could go to 60s, but that might not fit with my 32 gallon tank, and I’ll lose a lot of diff clearance. At least I should be able to keep my wheelbase, right?
With 39/40s, I know I’ll have to stretch my wheelbase, and lose the 32 gallon tank for a 26. But how much stretch is needed? And I'll need 60s at minimum, if not larger in the rear.
Unfortunatly, I live in Washington, where fender flares are a must. My tentative plan is to go from the 6.5” flares I have to 7” flares, and do the DIY AEV highline. I figure that’s about 2-3” more clearance? And approximately 74” tire coverage. State law says full coverage is necessary, though no one follows it. I figure I could probably get away with a 76” (EDIT) overall width, 78” max. Also, I want to stay somewhat narrow for some of the trails up here, hence no more lift, and only highlines.
For articulation, I know long arms aren’t well received here, which is why I went with (Currie) short arms. And though I’ve never been hung up on them, I am left somewhat wanting in the area of travel and smoothness. When talking about tires larger than 35, and wheelbases greater than 103, should I be looking into mid arms? Or at this point are long arms okay?
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