Colorado Daily-Driven Trail Warrior V2 - 2006 LJ
- Thread starter zachpeakee
- Start date
1. Having more droop on the passenger side (rear axle) is 100% normal. When you do the front you'll see the same thing on the driver side.
2. Sahara flares are 1" wider, same width as the Rubicon. I have rough country flares which are Rubicon width, because they were easier and cheaper to get my hands on, but they're not as nice as the real thing.
3. Rockjock springs won't fix the rear passenger sag. I just put brand new ones on mine and still have it. I don't have a good explanation for why, but I think I've come to reject the common explanation that it has anything to do with the engine torquing that way. The engine does torque that way, but I had a 1/2" as soon as it was on its own weight, having never even been started up.
4. I think you'll want the 0-2" JKS bar for the Sahara. The 2.5" probably won't let you adjust it short enough, and may even be bent in a way that requires extra bump stop which wouldn't be good on a stock jeep that has 4" or less of uptravel to start with. I would buy the one from @Mike_H and try your other one on the LJ, or if you've already bought the Rockjock, sell the JKS.
2. Sahara flares are 1" wider, same width as the Rubicon. I have rough country flares which are Rubicon width, because they were easier and cheaper to get my hands on, but they're not as nice as the real thing.
3. Rockjock springs won't fix the rear passenger sag. I just put brand new ones on mine and still have it. I don't have a good explanation for why, but I think I've come to reject the common explanation that it has anything to do with the engine torquing that way. The engine does torque that way, but I had a 1/2" as soon as it was on its own weight, having never even been started up.
4. I think you'll want the 0-2" JKS bar for the Sahara. The 2.5" probably won't let you adjust it short enough, and may even be bent in a way that requires extra bump stop which wouldn't be good on a stock jeep that has 4" or less of uptravel to start with. I would buy the one from @Mike_H and try your other one on the LJ, or if you've already bought the Rockjock, sell the JKS.
You'd have to drill out the TB frame mount and weld in a tappered insert to utilize the stock TB.
The other option would be to cut the 4” one down. Back when I was only contemplating moving from 2” to 4” of lift, I called and talked to JKS about the difference between the two bars. Guy on the phone told me the one designed for higher lifts is a bit longer (but no specifics). I ran the 0-2” bar at 4” of lift for a while, but their axle end isn’t strong enough and I bent it a couple times. That’s why I finally broke down and bought the rock jock bar.
No worries on it being bent anymore @zachpeakee. It would work great on your Sahara, if you don’t feel like cutting that tube and chasing threads deeper.
Does the 0-2" one utilize the same style drilled mount?
If so, I want to hop on that and buy it from you.
I'm really just looking to get it functionally roadworthy, but correct.
I don't feel good about selling someone a hack-job. So this seems to be a good "correct" way to fix the issue entirely.
I'm not sure if JKS sells the 0"-2" version anymore. All I can find is the 2.5"+ "HD" version.
Yeah, same joints and everything...Its just shorter on the tubing side (the black part with the "johnny joint")
I don't have that little wedge washer...but its totally unecessary, as well.
I figured, just due to how the track bar works, mounts, & operates.
Without the track bar connected, everything droops as expected.
I'm not sure what causes it on the TJ/LJ platform. Right now, it's sitting a the same level both sides. But I KNOW for fact that it was sagging 1/2" before I removed them from the TJ, so I expect the issue to come back. I'll more than likely just get a small spacer to level it out on the sagging side.
Yeah, I see no way that the JKS I currently have will work on stock configuration.
I'm very close to being as short as I can go, on 4" of lift.
I'm not terribly sure why there's so much thread. I'm quite literally only utilizing about 1/2" of thread on my setup.
The 0-2" JKS seems like my golden ticket out of this shit-show, so i'm hopeful that Mike's works well.
I can't find the 0"-2" version anywhere online (not sure that it's being made anymore)
Sure thing. That sounds like it's my saving grace in this situation.
That'd be awesome if we could work it out.
I'll shoot you a PM!
Keep in mind the weight of a driver probably evens it out, or maybe even reverses the difference, and I care more that it's even when driven than when parked. Or at least that's what I tell myself to be ok with leaving it alone.
Started today off strong, ended even stronger...
I've been telling myself for 3 days now "The fronts won't be as hard as the rears".
But I had to stop procrastinating, and decided today was the day that the LJ would get the donor front axle.
Front axle was pulled from the Sahara in a little over an hour.
The LJ was holding on a little more tightly to it's front axle. Had to take a break and go to Oreilly's to buy some Pickle Forks, Pitman Pullers, etc.
Every arm underneath there was giving me hell.
About 1.5 hours into the LJ front end, and I had it out.
Once it was out and on the ground, I just drug the donor axle (from the TJ) over to it, mounted the control arms up, and started dialing in my bumpstop/lower control arm length. I got this one pretty dead-on.
Then got the Track Bar mount drilled out for the JKS, and got the 4" SkyJacker Springs installed.
(to be a "cheapo" spring option, i'm actually VERY surprised at the amount of free-length.)
There were no serious mishaps or roadblocks on the fronts.
In all this was about 4 hours of work, and I'm so close to the finish line now.
I'm going to grab some dinner, and probably work on tidying a few things up before I hit the bed.
HOPEFULLY THE LJ WILL BE ROLLING ON IT'S OWN POWER TOMORROW..
Then it's time to dial in the Sahara, so that I can get it posted for sale.
I've been telling myself for 3 days now "The fronts won't be as hard as the rears".
But I had to stop procrastinating, and decided today was the day that the LJ would get the donor front axle.
Front axle was pulled from the Sahara in a little over an hour.
The LJ was holding on a little more tightly to it's front axle. Had to take a break and go to Oreilly's to buy some Pickle Forks, Pitman Pullers, etc.
Every arm underneath there was giving me hell.
About 1.5 hours into the LJ front end, and I had it out.
Once it was out and on the ground, I just drug the donor axle (from the TJ) over to it, mounted the control arms up, and started dialing in my bumpstop/lower control arm length. I got this one pretty dead-on.
Then got the Track Bar mount drilled out for the JKS, and got the 4" SkyJacker Springs installed.
(to be a "cheapo" spring option, i'm actually VERY surprised at the amount of free-length.)
There were no serious mishaps or roadblocks on the fronts.
In all this was about 4 hours of work, and I'm so close to the finish line now.
I'm going to grab some dinner, and probably work on tidying a few things up before I hit the bed.
HOPEFULLY THE LJ WILL BE ROLLING ON IT'S OWN POWER TOMORROW..
Then it's time to dial in the Sahara, so that I can get it posted for sale.
Just a little side-question about the front suspension.
Is it "normal" for the spring to contact the bump-stop cup?
Judging by the suspension geometry, I've concluded that it IS normal at this lift height (4"), but I guess to dive deeper into the topic, is there any way to fix it?
Is it "normal" for the spring to contact the bump-stop cup?
Judging by the suspension geometry, I've concluded that it IS normal at this lift height (4"), but I guess to dive deeper into the topic, is there any way to fix it?
Yes, it's expected.
I didn't like it so I got Rockjock bump stops. They eliminate the cup and replace with a rounded edge so as not to "pluck" the coil as it compresses from droop.
You’re supposed to drill and tap the LOWER perch and put your bumpstop down there rather than up top. That will eliminate the rubbing.
It didn't for me. This was a stock upper bump stop and perch with extension only added to lower.
My final adjustment might have helped a bit, but I know I at least had the bump stops lined up here, so it would only have been final caster and axle squaring at ride height.
This was hanging from a fully extended 11" Rancho.
Extend the front by bolting a 3" diameter body lift puck to the axle pad. Extend the rear using a 2" diameter body lift puck to lower the cup down.
Is that simply a consequence of short arms at that lift height, or is the axle mounted too far back?
My axle is as far forward as it can be without the (unmodified Currie) track bar meeting the diff cover. I think it's just shortarms when you can droop your axle 5.5" lower than the factory intended.
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