Building Homer (2005 TJ Build Thread)

I have two of these HF Braun LED lights on a stick and my overall review is about a 5 out of 10.

These are some of the early versions so they may have changed them because the newer ones shown in the ads look different.

View attachment 555219

But they run out of their battery too quick. Just, not as great as I need.

I bought two of the HF Icon "brand" on Black Friday sale last year for ~$25/ea. I can't say anything bad about them. 800 lumens, 2600 mAh, 18650 battery:

https://www.harborfreight.com/800-l...foldable-slim-bar-work-light-black-59103.html
 
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It would probably do as well in my Jeep as it does in the grass — I tell my wife 'the yard may be full of weeds but at least they're green...'

I keep trying... But I don't have the attention to detail. So, the yard gets fertilized throughout the year but it still looks like what it does when I started...

I gave up on clover and dandelions. They can stay if they want to 😅
 
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I bought two of the HF Icon "brand" on Black Friday sale last year for ~$25/ea. I can't say anything bad about them. 800 lumens, 2600 mAh, 18650 battery:

https://www.harborfreight.com/800-l...foldable-slim-bar-work-light-black-59103.html

I think these were early editions of what you've posted. I was an early adopter of these Braun lamps and like all things HF, the company has spent time to make them better.

I'm not against trying another version of these. I'm sharing my experience on these current ones I have.
 
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I think these were early editions of what you've posted. I was an early adopter of these Braun lamps and like all things HF, the company has spent time to make them better.
the Icon "brand" is supposedly HF's "professional quality" line whereas the Braun "brand" is their more casual DIYer line
 
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the Icon "brand" is supposedly HF's "professional quality" line whereas the Braun "brand" is their more casual DIYer line

Tracking. I don't mean to crap on these lights. They do the job but about adequate..

I'm a big HF fan and consumer because you can't beat what you get in product from them on the mechanical tools.

My history on anything electrical has been pretty hit and miss from HF. This tool included.

Good enough but a lot to be desired.
 
Removed the audio input to the radio from back when I was still using headphone jack inputs...

1000007435.webp

1000007441.webp

1000007443.webp

It revealed that the wiring in the dash needed to be addressed as much as I thought and planned it needed to be...
 
I never should have been soldering on auto wiring but I did. And I used really crappy electrical tape at the time...

1000007440.webp


Luckily that's a grounding wire hanging unexposed... But I'm just happy I found it and will clean it up.
 
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I also don't think this was helping with the poor AM/FM regional coverage I was getting through the radio...
 
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Spend time planning out the new wiring. Getting ideas out of my head. So much better doing this rather than ideas in my head because I could plan the fuse/relay uses in the PDC better - and realize things I hadn't planned in my head.

Spare PDC I'm adding:

PDC Overall.webp


I went through the FSM and mapped the wiring gauge and colors. This helped a ton in my planning.

You'll see the fuses and relays in green that I'm currently planning to use.

PDC Relays.webp


PDC Fuses.webp


I'm using this table as reference to plan wiring vs amperage draw.

Wiring.webp


Noting that many of my runs will up the wiring size for wiring that's longer than OEM. Learning this is common in automotive (when planned and done right) vs a 'never do' in residential wiring.

So some of the fuses at 18g will have very short runs to then join 16g wiring where the 16g runs deeper into the Jeep. But the 18g run stays within the tolerance of the wiring.

I tried to keep any gauge changes to a 1-step gauge (18-to-16, 16-to-14. etc). I don't plan to change gauge for anything at or over 12g.
 
Headlight

OEM:

Healight - OEM.webp


H4 Headlights off the battery:

Healight - H4.webp


Using PDC fuses and separate weather-proof relays.
 
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Rear Locker:

Locker.webp


Seat Heaters:

Seat Heaters.webp


Seat Heater provided wiring was all 18g. I wanted to go to 16g for the runs for added protection.

CB Radio:

CB Radio.webp


CB is my lowest priority because I may replace it with another option vs adding more radios... May wire it in anticipating that the connector lets me replace it with a future upgrade.
 
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ARB Dual Pump Compressors:

ARB Compressor.webp


Originally planned to run this through all through the PDC but the provided wiring is 8-10g with stout 40A fuses - which I suspect is meant to deal with the current spike for the pumps.

So I'd rather do this once (using the provided wiring kit) rather than burn our fuses and do it again.

I do not plan to use the ARB switch wiring kit because it includes so many more options to crowd the 'behind the dash'. So I will with that with new wiring.

I'll keep all the connectors I don't keep from the ARB switch harness because it's a future re-use opportunity.
 
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Last week I was looking around for 100% copper wiring and many spots seemed to be unavailable. I guess something changed and stock came in - or I cleared my internet cookies and the supplied changed to in stock 🤷‍♂️

Anyway - I went back to my go-to automotive electrical supplier - Waytek

Ordered the original wiring, relays (yes - one was broken but that's on me for never checking the order upon delivery) and fuse mounts (won't be using with the new PDC).

Waytek has great pricing.

Ordered:
  • 14g
    • Red, Black, Yellow, Lt. Blue, Gray
  • 16g
    • Red, Black, Green, Blue, White
  • 18g
    • Red, Black, Lt. Blue, Orange, Green
  • Non-Insulated Butt Connectors
    • 18-22g
    • 14-16g
    • 10-12g
Ordered 9/3 and just notified the parts will be here 9/7 - quicker turn around than expected.

Excited to have the parts in-hand. Hoping to have cycles this weekend to start working this wiring project.
 
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Realized the wire strippers I've been using for 12g & 10g are 10-18g solid wire cutters. Learning something every day for the solid vs stranded cutters...

Got this one coming to the tool chest on Sun. (So I won't strip any of the new wiring on Sat... ;))

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TQ83P2C?tag=wranglerorg-20

Also ordered the 'white text on black labels' for the Dymo to re-label the aux PDC, following in @NashvilleTJ's tip/use.
 
Realized the wire strippers I've been using for 12g & 10g are 10-18g solid wire cutters. Learning something every day for the solid vs stranded cutters...

Got this one coming to the tool chest on Sun. (So I won't strip any of the new wiring on Sat... ;))

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TQ83P2C?tag=wranglerorg-20

Also ordered the 'white text on black labels' for the Dymo to re-label the aux PDC, following in @NashvilleTJ's tip/use.

I need to order some more White on Black tape for my label maker. I need to get one that takes wider tape too so I could make my PDC look better. Jeff sets a really HIGH bar for the rest of us to follow.
 
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I'm going to go with the ARB wiring harness provided as shown in Orange above.

Clearly provide a wiring harness and fuses demonstrate that they are built for a likely increase of current draw when the compressors kick on.

Here is a comparison of the 40A fuses:.

1000007450.webp
 
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Both of those are 40 amp fuses but you can see the ARB wiring is built for an initial current draw and then steady state less than 40 amps.
 
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