Building Homer (2005 TJ Build Thread)

[FarFire70]

Don't wash or wipe any of those white lettered buttons on the column or wheel with anything but a water damped rag. A lot of the shiny goop and cleaners remove the letters quick

Thanks. Great advice. Makes sense since the products are meant to 'lift' stains, dirt, etc — and those lettering are somewhat in that category.

For years I was using the Turtle Wax interior spray as I liked the matte finish. I picked up a bottle of Meguiar's which says it is matte because I couldn't find the Turtle Wax.

I'll follow your advice on keeping it clear on these controls and the others on the center stack.

 

[Fluxor]

I wish I had been more patient when wiring accessories. I need to pay some attention to my wiring. It’s so nice when you know things are wired properly.

 

[Wildman]

Thanks!

I still think of it as being that Jeep that's only a few years old... but I'm opening my eyes and seeing it really needs TLC.

It's sat more years than it has driven in the past 10 years (engine + COVID Lift project) so I'd like to get it back to being a quality and reliable DD.

The CC is nice on the highway and I drive a lot of long highway & highway-like roads around my area to get to pretty much anything that's isn't a 5-min drive. I hate the wear on the current ones every time I jump in...

Mine is now eligible for Classic car plates in WA so it's no spring chicken.
If I was driving mine on the street a lot CC would be a definite item.
And I'll be the first to admit I miss driving mine as a DD. I've even thought about buying another one for that. Or I could fix the one I purchased for the Hemi... damn see what you did to me.

I've messed up before and used a cleaner that removed the white lettering off steering wheel controls.

I know all about a rig being parked for 10± years. You're making great progress on yours and will be driving and enjoying it really soon.

 

[FarFire70]

Mine is now eligible for Classic car plates in WA so it's no spring chicken.
If I was driving mine on the street a lot CC would be a definite item.
And I'll be the first to admit I miss driving mine as a DD. I've even thought about buying another one for that. Or I could fix the one I purchased for the Hemi... damn see what you did to me.

I've messed up before and used a cleaner that removed the white lettering off steering wheel controls.

I know all about a rig being parked for 10± years. You're making great progress on yours and will be driving and enjoying it really soon.

I was thinking of historic/classic plates recently as mine approaches 20 years old in Feb (build sticker date). Mostly as a curious thought - not a plan to pursue.

Homer would meet the age requirement next year here in MD for 'historic vehicle' but no way he'd meet the "must not [MD bolds 'not'] have been substantially altered, remodeled or remanufactured from the manufacturers original design" Nope

I also think back to my home state of PA as they have the 'Antique/Classic' plates & registration starting at 25 & 15 years, respectively. Hmm... Antique Motor Vehicle & Classic Motor Vehicle - 'has been maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially inconformity with manufacturer specifications and appearance.' Nope

So... I'm glad these thoughts were curious and not with intent...

 

[FarFire70]

And I'll be the first to admit I miss driving mine as a DD. I've even thought about buying another one for that. Or I could fix the one I purchased for the Hemi... damn see what you did to me.

On both the Hemi and ''ve even thought about buying another one for that' .....

I know all about a rig being parked for 10± years. You're making great progress on yours and will be driving and enjoying it really soon.

Thank you! It was great to get the drives in I did after getting back on the road, passed emissions (or state would have pulled registration), and then aligned properly! Drives amazing!

But so many projects in the wing, I need get after some but also stop opening can(s) of worms...

Once I got into the paint detailing (and life situations on top of things) I realized this summer is a scratch — so I went deep into 'get after the projects'. Hence all the deeper works projects.

 

[Wildman]

I was thinking of historic/classic plates recently as mine approaches 20 years old in Feb (build sticker date). Mostly as a curious thought - not a plan to pursue.

Homer would meet the age requirement next year here in MD for 'historic vehicle' but no way he'd meet the "must not [MD bolds 'not'] have been substantially altered, remodeled or remanufactured from the manufacturers original design" Nope

I also think back to my home state of PA as they have the 'Antique/Classic' plates & registration starting at 25 & 15 years, respectively. Hmm... Antique Motor Vehicle & Classic Motor Vehicle - 'has been maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially inconformity with manufacturer specifications and appearance.' Nope

So... I'm glad these thoughts were curious and not with intent...

WA is 27 years for the classic plates. But I'm not sure what their restrictions are.

Edit;: I was wrong it's 30 years old not 27. So I've got another 3 years to go.

requirements
Vehicles with these plates:

Must have a current registration.
Must be more than 30 years old.
Be capable of operating on the highway.
Be owned and operated as collector vehicles.
May be driven:
To and from auto shows, circuses, parades, displays, special excursions, and antique car club meetings.
For testing purposes.
For the pleasure of others without compensation.
May not be used for:
Regular transportation in the manner of a fully licensed vehicle.
Commercial purposes or to carry a load.
Note: These plates are available for trailers 30 years or older.

 

[FarFire70]

WA is 27 years for the classic plates. But I'm not sure what their restrictions are.

Given your lack of requirements on emissions and safety inspections, I'm hoping you'd have light requirements.

I recall PA had a limit on mileage for their antique/classic plates. I haven't checked into them in MD but that would turn me off, if I can turn this into a good DD for regular use. I also don't want to worry on mileage to an off-road trip when he's ready.

Plus, I came to the MD area when they had their really cool Centennial plates for the War of 1812 - which I like and would hate to lose going to a different (boring) newer plate going to a new status...

 

[Wildman]

Given your lack of requirements on emissions and safety inspections, I'm hoping you'd have light requirements.

I recall PA had a limit on mileage for their antique/classic plates. I haven't checked into them in MD but that would turn me off, if I can turn this into a good DD for regular use. I also don't want to worry on mileage to an off-road trip when he's ready.

Plus, I came to the MD area when they had their really cool Centennial plates for the War of 1812 - which I like and would hate to lose going to a different (boring) newer plate going to a new status...

View attachment 558289

The one perk to having the Collector plates is you're only required to run a rear plate.

 

[FarFire70]

The one perk to having the Collector plates is you're only required to run a rear plate.

That's a benefit that I miss from PA to MD...!

Tore off the front plate on my first off-road trip after moving to MD. Wrapped it better on the bumper after, but now I need to find a solution when I install @Fluxor's beautiful bumper...

 

[FarFire70]

The one perk to having the Collector plates is you're only required to run a rear plate.

Since so much filming (when done in the US) is done in the PNW — is that why the criminals always drive such cool classic cars?

Avoiding detection...?

Smart (car) casting and filming locale

 

[Wildman]

That's a benefit that I miss from PA to MD...!

Tore off the front plate on my first off-road trip after moving to MD. Wrapped it better on the bumper after, but now I need to find a solution when I install @Fluxor's beautiful bumper...

I have mine clipped onto the rollers on my fairlead. But I've bent up my front plate more than once.

Since so much filming (when done in the US) is done in the PNW — is that why the criminals always drive such cool classic cars?

Avoiding detection...?

Smart (car) casting and filming locale

I didn't know we were such a filming destination.
I'm sure a lot of times even when they don't have a Collectors plate they just run without the plate.
Like showing guys with no helmet on a motorcycle when in a state with a helmet law.

 

[Apparition]

That's a benefit that I miss from PA to MD...!

Tore off the front plate on my first off-road trip after moving to MD. Wrapped it better on the bumper after, but now I need to find a solution when I install @Fluxor's beautiful bumper...

I forgot to put my front plate on after Moab in June until this week when I noticed it and put it back on. I do like how MC has the removable plate and it could be done on any bumper with a couple nutserts, thumbscrews and some small brackets if needed.

Pics at link of their universal kit which could easily be made at home for considerably less.

https://metalcloak.com/universal-front-license-plate-adapter-cj-yj-tj-lj-jk-jl.html

 

[FarFire70]

I have mine clipped onto the rollers on my fairlead. But I've bent up my front plate more than once.



I didn't know we were such a filming destination.
I'm sure a lot of times even when they don't have a Collectors plate they just run without the plate.
Like showing guys with no helmet on a motorcycle when in a state with a helmet law.

Vancouver is a big filming spot and they fall back to WA when they need reshoots, etc.

My sister's a big fan of a number of shows filmed in that area and shared a bunch after her visit a few years back.

BIL (her husband) is a big Twin Peaks fan which was all filmed in WA.

 

[FarFire70]

I forgot to put my front plate on after Moab in June until this week when I noticed it and put it back on. I do like how MC has the removable plate and it could be done on any bumper with a couple nutserts, thumbscrews and some small brackets if needed.

Pics at link of their universal kit which could easily be made at home for considerably less.

https://metalcloak.com/universal-front-license-plate-adapter-cj-yj-tj-lj-jk-jl.html

Nice option. I like the thumb screws for removal at a park.

 

[FarFire70]

Blower motor resistor installed.

You can compare this new one to the previous pic and see how much the solder had started to melt on the old that was working but failing.

—-

For any vehicle, auto body work and then exhaust are the bane of my existence.

This Jeep I would easily say installing this resistor just seems to be a major pain every time I do it. It's likely the thing I hate the most when replace on this Jeep for whatever reason, even though it's a fairly 'easy' install...

That includes replacing the engine and having removed the axles a few times... Those jobs were just so much more enjoyable than this small part replacement and it being such a pain for me every time.

 

[FarFire70]

I think this will be the approximate placement for Aux PDC.

I think I can bend the bracket to match up with the fenders.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Given your lack of requirements on emissions and safety inspections, I'm hoping you'd have light requirements.

I recall PA had a limit on mileage for their antique/classic plates. I haven't checked into them in MD but that would turn me off, if I can turn this into a good DD for regular use. I also don't want to worry on mileage to an off-road trip when he's ready.

Plus, I came to the MD area when they had their really cool Centennial plates for the War of 1812 - which I like and would hate to lose going to a different (boring) newer plate going to a new status...

View attachment 558289

I lived on the Eastern Shore for many years. I really miss St. Michaels - speaking of the War of 1812…

 

[FarFire70]

Gasket kit arrived. It's a nice assortment (utility knife for scale)

Thought the second smallest would be good for the firewall, but they were loose. So tried the third size and it fit great.

 

[FarFire70]

Put painter tape on the windshield as a reference markup point and made my measurements off of marking on the tape.

Planned to use a gasket as well but this brand seems to ride closer to the door so doesn't give as much room.

The trim needs to come back out when I redrill for the tweeters anyway and at that point I'll sand down these edges with high grit sandpaper for a better finish.

I mentioned it before but I'll say it again now that I have the driver side installed and used it, @JMT is 100% accurate in his recommendation that these make it is immensely easier to get in and out of the Jeep with these hard mounts over the soft handles. Great advice!

 

[FarFire70]

I can't see why I spent any money on these 'new' control buttons...

I'm so happy on the new switches, even if a bit worn. Money saved and a million times looking better.

I'll keep the old ones in case of future rain damage (because this Jeep does tend to live in the weather).