Okay, so I just got done with the rear control arms. The uppers ended up with 7/8 thread showing after the jam nut:
The lowers have barely any showing:
The lowers have barely any showing:
How much of the Johnny Joint shank can be showing on Savvy control arms?
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
I'm not 100% sure, only because I never took the Johnny Joint itself out of the tube before installing them. They came pre-installed in the tube.
I will tell that change your mind a little, Jeep will drive different and a minimal change you will notice will drive you nuts.
Expect vibes and little difference, that way you will be more open to fine tune whatever is need it.
Good Luck tomorrow!
Chris, I found this old Jeepforum.com article that might be helpful on Savvy arm lengths: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/savvy-control-arms-length-1522252/.
Have you tried calling Savvy just to see if they have some baseline stats for where you should be based on your lift height, and the max recommended lengths?
Have you tried calling Savvy just to see if they have some baseline stats for where you should be based on your lift height, and the max recommended lengths?
No extra nut is needed on the uppers. The upper arms operate wholly in tension and compression.
Threaded Joint pedantic should know that thin pattern nuts used to lock two threaded components together to prevent loosening is a jam nut, not a jamb nut.
The only way a vendor could even begin to talk about it intelligently is for the customer to start by sending in unsprung corner weights. Then they would need every single modification planning to be installed and a CAD drawing of the rig in question and full specifications on the drive train.
Then and ONLY then would they have a reasonably accurate idea of where to start and at that point they can give you specific lengths of the arms and after that, guess what? That would still only be a starting point so you could install them and go for a test drive to see if your rig actually responds to the modifications the same way or differently as the last 28 did or will it behave differently?
If all rigs were the same, arms would not be adjustable. We would know the lengths and just build them to that since it really isn't that hard to do. Ya'll newcomers don't even remember when DA control arms didn't exist. They adjust twice as far as a single adjustable and that is a thing of beauty.
Here are your baseline stats-
Set pinion angle at ride height. Cycle suspension until all clearances are checked and found to be acceptable with no interference issues. Once that is done, adjust wheel base until bump stops are within spec and acceptable. After wheel base is adjusted, cycle suspension again to check for clearance issues. After both are done and the rest of the suspension is installed correctly, test drive to ensure pinion angle is within spec and free of vibrations.
And if by the 1 in 10,000 miracle you have the oddball Jeep that will allow the arms to be adjusted past their safe point, are you going to get new longer arms or are you just going to shorten them up a small amount, pull the wheelbase in slightly and go have fun?
Wish the shop that installed my lift recently would have actually used a bit of this advice. It's been fun laying in the driveway getting back to where it should have been installed. Would have gladly taken it back to them, but they did such a bad job, I lost faith in them completely.
We spent most of yesterday going over a rig that had an extremely large amount of money spent on it. Steering, brakes, HP 60's front and rear and custom suspension under it. Supercharger, blah blah blah.
It was a perfect example of the 10/90 rule. It takes 10% of the effort to get something 90% done, it takes the remaining 90% of the effort to get the last 10%. Owner chatted a bit about getting legal involved. I declined to testify as any sort of expert due to the simple fact that he paid for steering, it steers. He paid for brakes, it stops. He paid for suspension, it is suspended. Not a single thing he paid for doesn't work. Does it work the way it should? Not in my opinion but I don't know how to fix it without ripping out a lot of things and starting over. That and going over the original estimate, we saw several examples of double dipping which I despise.
Example of DD is ball joints. If we are doing a big brake kit install, we already have the knuckles off. It's another 50 bucks to pop the ball joints in. If the shop above did it. There would be a charge for ball joints that included taking the knuckles off and axle shafts out. There would be a big brake kit installation charge on top of that without taking into account that there is only a small additional cost if you already have the knuckles off.
They are not tubes. They are solid round bar stock that has been bored and threaded only on each end.
Let's not forget his question, What is the maximum safe length of the jj thread shank can be outside the thread on rod.
If it was actually important, one would unthread a joint from the arm so we know how much we have to work with.
I'll never forget the time many years ago after installing my previous TJ's long-arm suspension and I was (temporarily) proud of it. I asked you what I should do next. "Start over"
was your simple reply. 
Not sure what size joints you have @Chris but I found this on pirate
For the 1.25" shank (Currie #9114)
End to center of ball: 5"
Threaded Length:~3.25
If I remember correctly the threaded inserts I used to make my arms had about 3/4" of thread in em (I never measured its just a guesstimate from memory 5 years ago) but basically you want to keep at least the full insert worth of engagement. Given that your arms are drilled and threaded I'd say ideally you would want the same amount at least if you can. In your case more is better as it will actually be stronger, whereas with the threaded insert it doesn't make much difference. I couldn't find the lengths on the 1" shanks in my 2min Google search but I'm sure currie could supply it if you email em.
—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
For the 1.25" shank (Currie #9114)
End to center of ball: 5"
Threaded Length:~3.25
If I remember correctly the threaded inserts I used to make my arms had about 3/4" of thread in em (I never measured its just a guesstimate from memory 5 years ago) but basically you want to keep at least the full insert worth of engagement. Given that your arms are drilled and threaded I'd say ideally you would want the same amount at least if you can. In your case more is better as it will actually be stronger, whereas with the threaded insert it doesn't make much difference. I couldn't find the lengths on the 1" shanks in my 2min Google search but I'm sure currie could supply it if you email em.
—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
Is it me or is it really frustrating that these companies are soooo bad at providing some sort of documentation?! I'm still clueless on what I'd need to do to adjust my RK RRD emulsion shocks
Is it me or is it really frustrating that these companies are soooo bad at providing some sort of documentation?! I'm still clueless on what I'd need to do to adjust my RK RRD emulsion shocks
I agree. I can obviously figure it out on my own (or on the forum), but it would be a lot easier if they included instructions.
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