Looking forward to seeing how the spool gun does on the heavy AL.
Building an E-Ticket ride - 06 LJ
- Thread starter E-Ticket
- Start date
I worked on the winch mount today. I built a base for it out of some steel plates and angles. This will sit inside the box and the front line of bolts will go thru one of the trailer cross beams.
Given the dimensions of the box, I can’t get to the adjacent beam for the other set of bolts. However, the idea is this base acts as an outrigger to react the torque of the winch. The plates are 24” wide and sandwich three 2x8 deck planks. With the small winch I think this is going to be more than beefy enough to take the loads.
Here I am drilling the holes in the trailer. I will transfer them to the box after.
I added a row of deck screws along the rest of the beam to help stiffen that up and box that area of the deck as the adjacent beams have full rows of screws in them too.
Given the dimensions of the box, I can’t get to the adjacent beam for the other set of bolts. However, the idea is this base acts as an outrigger to react the torque of the winch. The plates are 24” wide and sandwich three 2x8 deck planks. With the small winch I think this is going to be more than beefy enough to take the loads.
Here I am drilling the holes in the trailer. I will transfer them to the box after.
I added a row of deck screws along the rest of the beam to help stiffen that up and box that area of the deck as the adjacent beams have full rows of screws in them too.
The basic idea is coming together. Now onto the wiring, battery, charger and lights.
I have a small NOCO electric charger mounted inside that I can plug in when able, such as at home. The electrical will pass through the box with a bulkhead electrical socket so the box can stay closed. When towing, I've got a towed vehicle charger that picks up current from the aux pin in the 7 pin harness coming from the truck. So, I will be topped up when I leave and when I arrive. The only situation where I might be caught with a weak battery is after using the winch and then staying away from electrical for a bit. However, I have some 30ft jumper cables to throw in the box if I ever need to tap into the truck battery.
The chargers:
I doubt I will ever use this winch unless my Jeep is dead or maybe I am pulling something else dead onto the trailer. However, it is a fun project and if I need it, it will be nice to have.
The pass thru plug:
It wouldn’t be too hard to add some solar charging if I need that in the future.
Today I got all the winch wiring and accessories roughed in. Tomorrow I will pick up a battery and secure/tidy up all of the wiring for the winch. Then onto the lights.
Ports for extension cord for charging and the winch wired controller. I’ve got the wireless as well.
The wiring looks like a rat’s nest now but will appeal to my OCD by the time I finish!
Ports for extension cord for charging and the winch wired controller. I’ve got the wireless as well.
The wiring looks like a rat’s nest now but will appeal to my OCD by the time I finish!
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Winch and battery wiring are done. Still need to attach my tow charge wire to the trailer but I will do that together with adding in the reverse lights on the trailer. That likely requires a new 7 pin plug and junction box if the existing plug isn’t using the reverse light wire.
Control panel:
Interior light:
Exterior lights:
Wiring secured:
Control panel:
Interior light:
Exterior lights:
Wiring secured:
Moving on to the trailer wiring. To add reverse lighting I had to swap out the 7 pin plug that used only 6 pins for one that uses all 7. I got a harness with junction box that I can use to add the reverse light wires as well as the charge wire going to the toolbox battery.
The kicker was converting the pin outs from the”traditional” to “RV” style. A couple of wires are in different locations and colors and that threw me for a loop. After staring at it for long enough and some good googling, I got the two mated up.
The junction box with 3 pin plug added:
The top is the original harness with traditional pinouts. The lower is the new 7 pin with RV pinouts. I cut and reused the existing harness to save most of it and avoid wiring the entire trailer.
The 3 pin pigtail takes care of the reverse positive and negative, as well as the battery charge wire.
Junction box mounted:
Old breakaway brake wiring after removing a sleeve that covered it up:
New breakaway brake wiring all cut to length and loomed and secured:
Next week I will add a length wire from the pigtail down the trailer for the reverse lights and get them mounted.
The kicker was converting the pin outs from the”traditional” to “RV” style. A couple of wires are in different locations and colors and that threw me for a loop. After staring at it for long enough and some good googling, I got the two mated up.
The junction box with 3 pin plug added:
The top is the original harness with traditional pinouts. The lower is the new 7 pin with RV pinouts. I cut and reused the existing harness to save most of it and avoid wiring the entire trailer.
The 3 pin pigtail takes care of the reverse positive and negative, as well as the battery charge wire.
Junction box mounted:
Old breakaway brake wiring after removing a sleeve that covered it up:
New breakaway brake wiring all cut to length and loomed and secured:
Next week I will add a length wire from the pigtail down the trailer for the reverse lights and get them mounted.
Now that I have good lighting behind the trailer I’d like to see what is behind me. I purchased a wireless camera off Amazon with a magnetic camera base that I can slap on the Jeep when towing and see in a monitor in the truck. Just $120 and decent reviews.
Magnetic Solar Wireless Backup Camera with 5” HD Monitor, No Wiring, Built-in 10,000mAh Battery, IP68 Waterproof,IR Night Vision Rear... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3KRMP2W?tag=wranglerorg-20
Super easy to get working, no set up at all and I didn’t want it to be tied to my phone.
The picture quality is pretty good and I can turn off the lines, etc. it has a small solar panel on the camera base to top up the battery as you go, hopefully that will work otherwise I’ve got a mating charger in the toolbox now so can top it up overnight that way too if in the field.
Magnetic Solar Wireless Backup Camera with 5” HD Monitor, No Wiring, Built-in 10,000mAh Battery, IP68 Waterproof,IR Night Vision Rear... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3KRMP2W?tag=wranglerorg-20
Super easy to get working, no set up at all and I didn’t want it to be tied to my phone.
The picture quality is pretty good and I can turn off the lines, etc. it has a small solar panel on the camera base to top up the battery as you go, hopefully that will work otherwise I’ve got a mating charger in the toolbox now so can top it up overnight that way too if in the field.
My truck won’t be getting much use in the winter so I put a battery maintainer in it, nice compact NOCO unit. I’ve got a red luggage tag strapped to the steering wheel to remind me it is hooked up.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Finally got my bed tread kit done but not very happy with it. The only reason it is halfway adhering to the tub walls in the back is the tie down rings I installed over them. The upper edge along the tub upper rim is not connected at all due to the Velcro being located poorly and that area doesn’t have any good surfaces to adhere it to. It will stay in place but I can foresee dirt getting behind it that will be a problem.
I also moved the spare tire forward just under 4 inches so the anchor bolt is still in the tub crossmember, gives me a bit more space behind it for bags.
I am building a platform to sit on top of the spare for more bag storage. With the 12.5” wide tire the platform will line up with the upper surfaces of the wheel wells and provide support all the way across. I can tie down the upper level bags to the roll cage bars.
Likely I will get the tub professionally bed lined someday.
I saw these in the Tool Day thread and ordered some. Saved an entire drawer in my toolbox!
I also moved the spare tire forward just under 4 inches so the anchor bolt is still in the tub crossmember, gives me a bit more space behind it for bags.
I am building a platform to sit on top of the spare for more bag storage. With the 12.5” wide tire the platform will line up with the upper surfaces of the wheel wells and provide support all the way across. I can tie down the upper level bags to the roll cage bars.
Likely I will get the tub professionally bed lined someday.
I saw these in the Tool Day thread and ordered some. Saved an entire drawer in my toolbox!
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I got some roll cage padding from Summit, non racing type so gives like a pool noodle but has a concentric shape so you get a lot of padding on one side to point at your head.
You cut them with a bread knife, but don’t tell my wife!
The shape has a lot of stiffness and holds onto the 1.75 diameter bars tightly, so much so that I may skip the planned nylon ties. Nice color match too.
You cut them with a bread knife, but don’t tell my wife!
The shape has a lot of stiffness and holds onto the 1.75 diameter bars tightly, so much so that I may skip the planned nylon ties. Nice color match too.
Remember these? I haven’t been happy with them since I put them on. I give them 10% chance of working as intended and 90% chance of causing a fall while trying to use it.
I came up with a better way to get the same intended outcome.
First a closet pole cut to length and painted with some bed liner.
Next some 2” wide cargo straps with sleeves over them, $8 each on a trucking supply website. These are overkill for the load requirement but nice and stiff and that’s what I am looking for.
Holes cut with a soldering iron.
A few screws into the dowels and longer bolts in the rock sliders and these are way more stable side to side, so you just have to worry about the movement in and out.
My odds have improved to 50/50 for this to work out, I’ll take it.
I came up with a better way to get the same intended outcome.
First a closet pole cut to length and painted with some bed liner.
Next some 2” wide cargo straps with sleeves over them, $8 each on a trucking supply website. These are overkill for the load requirement but nice and stiff and that’s what I am looking for.
Holes cut with a soldering iron.
A few screws into the dowels and longer bolts in the rock sliders and these are way more stable side to side, so you just have to worry about the movement in and out.
My odds have improved to 50/50 for this to work out, I’ll take it.
Back to my trailer, I’ve been spinning over the tie down method since I picked it up.
I wanted to used axle straps but after trying them under load there is no clear place on either axle to get a 2” strap over it without chafing on a sharp edge.
At the suggestion of many I looked at (even bought) tie down brackets. On the rear Currie Dana 60 axle without outboarded shocks that forces me close to the differential or up on the track bar and UCA mounts. Those positions are doable but not ideal.
However, there is no reasonable location on a stock width Currie HP44 front axle to mount brackets. You could put them on the underside of the axle but then they will be right in the line of fire for rocks. This was not going to work for me.
So, I came back to the idea of wheel nets. I called Mac’s to get a quote: $650!
Looking around I realized that I could make my own wheel nets with off the shelf parts from US Cargo Contol that cost $204 all in. Same load rating, just using a ratchet on both ends instead of a snap hook on one side.
This allows me far more adjustability in case I later change wheel sizes or need to haul another rig with different size wheels or wheelbase.
I got tie down track sections and fittings rated for 5000 lbs each and mounted the track over a frame with the center bolt in the frame. The other two bolts have fender washers under the 2x8. The 2x8s have been tied to the frame with additional fasteners.
I thought about putting track all the way down the trailer but these local sections will be easier to keep clean and I can also ensure I am mounted through a frame by doing it this way.
Happy to hear any inputs on this configuration and happy to call it good.
The front strap is close to the ball joint however the top section is protecting the loaded strap so I think it will be okay and I will closely monitor it and add more protection if I see wear.
I wanted to used axle straps but after trying them under load there is no clear place on either axle to get a 2” strap over it without chafing on a sharp edge.
At the suggestion of many I looked at (even bought) tie down brackets. On the rear Currie Dana 60 axle without outboarded shocks that forces me close to the differential or up on the track bar and UCA mounts. Those positions are doable but not ideal.
However, there is no reasonable location on a stock width Currie HP44 front axle to mount brackets. You could put them on the underside of the axle but then they will be right in the line of fire for rocks. This was not going to work for me.
So, I came back to the idea of wheel nets. I called Mac’s to get a quote: $650!
Looking around I realized that I could make my own wheel nets with off the shelf parts from US Cargo Contol that cost $204 all in. Same load rating, just using a ratchet on both ends instead of a snap hook on one side.
This allows me far more adjustability in case I later change wheel sizes or need to haul another rig with different size wheels or wheelbase.
I got tie down track sections and fittings rated for 5000 lbs each and mounted the track over a frame with the center bolt in the frame. The other two bolts have fender washers under the 2x8. The 2x8s have been tied to the frame with additional fasteners.
I thought about putting track all the way down the trailer but these local sections will be easier to keep clean and I can also ensure I am mounted through a frame by doing it this way.
Happy to hear any inputs on this configuration and happy to call it good.
The front strap is close to the ball joint however the top section is protecting the loaded strap so I think it will be okay and I will closely monitor it and add more protection if I see wear.
Gave some love to my tow rig, added a hidden winch mount from Vice Designs using a Warn EVO 12-S and a pair of Rigid cube lights with yellow covers for use in snow or dusty conditions.
So far I’ve added some side steps, tonneau cover, reverse pod lights and bed lights.
I’ve got my 20” wheels for sale and will replace with some 17” wheels for more sidewall and hopefully a better ride.
So far I’ve added some side steps, tonneau cover, reverse pod lights and bed lights.
I’ve got my 20” wheels for sale and will replace with some 17” wheels for more sidewall and hopefully a better ride.
I’ve been thinking about how to store all my trail gear around my spare mounted in the tub. I had the spare laying flat, bolted down to the floor but that ate up most of the floor space, even for an LJ.
I was going to build a wood platform to sit on the tire, but got sidetracked for a couple of weeks and then did not want to cut wood in the shop with the doors closed for winter and cover everything with sawdust.
Then it came to me, why not see how it looks standing up and attached to the harness bar?
I gave it a try and it looks good and is very solid with two ratchet straps. It frees up a ton of floor space and doesn’t block my rear view any more than a tailgate mounted spare.
I liked the low CG of the flat mount but I will have more weight in gear than the spare laying flat in the tub so net net I don’t see any issues with CG.
Mod cost: two ratchet straps I had in a box.
Curious if anyone sees an issue with this idea that I am missing outside of the inconvenience of getting to it on the trail.
I was going to build a wood platform to sit on the tire, but got sidetracked for a couple of weeks and then did not want to cut wood in the shop with the doors closed for winter and cover everything with sawdust.
Then it came to me, why not see how it looks standing up and attached to the harness bar?
I gave it a try and it looks good and is very solid with two ratchet straps. It frees up a ton of floor space and doesn’t block my rear view any more than a tailgate mounted spare.
I liked the low CG of the flat mount but I will have more weight in gear than the spare laying flat in the tub so net net I don’t see any issues with CG.
Mod cost: two ratchet straps I had in a box.
Curious if anyone sees an issue with this idea that I am missing outside of the inconvenience of getting to it on the trail.
More love for the tow rig:
Got my 17” wheels and new tires. Went with Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT’s. Bumped up a size from the equivalent to stock, 295/70R17.
Sold my 20” wheels and tires on Craigslist.
Next I wired up another relay for my aux reverse lights so I can force them off if I don’t want to blind someone behind me when backing into a well light area. That’s connected to my 4 gang switch panel along with my front aux lights. Finally, I pulled out the CCA wiring I had used for my winch and replaced it with the Warn supplied copper wiring. It was so nice working with the garage door open for the first time in months!
Back to the LJ, mounted a pair of wide facing round LED light pods on my bull bar but much lower on the gusset.
I removed my front facing camera from the bull bar as it looked like crap. I didn’t like the clamp I mounted it to or the wiring being attached to the bar.
I found a spot underneath that is tucked up tight and should keep it safe. The mount is a simple plate attached with a couple of P clamps on my steering box brace.
Finally, started putting my sticker collection under the hood. That’s got to be good for at least 10hp…
Got my 17” wheels and new tires. Went with Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT’s. Bumped up a size from the equivalent to stock, 295/70R17.
Sold my 20” wheels and tires on Craigslist.
Next I wired up another relay for my aux reverse lights so I can force them off if I don’t want to blind someone behind me when backing into a well light area. That’s connected to my 4 gang switch panel along with my front aux lights. Finally, I pulled out the CCA wiring I had used for my winch and replaced it with the Warn supplied copper wiring. It was so nice working with the garage door open for the first time in months!
Back to the LJ, mounted a pair of wide facing round LED light pods on my bull bar but much lower on the gusset.
I removed my front facing camera from the bull bar as it looked like crap. I didn’t like the clamp I mounted it to or the wiring being attached to the bar.
I found a spot underneath that is tucked up tight and should keep it safe. The mount is a simple plate attached with a couple of P clamps on my steering box brace.
Finally, started putting my sticker collection under the hood. That’s got to be good for at least 10hp…
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Gimmick alert
This one may not agree with some but I am doing it anyway. I don’t like to eat dirt so anything that helps me minimize eating dirt is of interest. Seeing some creative ideas here on how to add a cabin air filter got me checking the wild world of eBay. There are multiple 3D printed solutions available and I tried two of them.
First this one, which does not fit my 2006 due to interference with the cowl sheet metal:
Sorry no pics as I was in a rush a couple weeks ago to install it the night before going on a trip and was so irritated about it that I had to go pour a whiskey.
I doubled down and tried another one and this time it fit my 2006 perfectly:
Here it is ready to be installed:
It uses the same part number air filter as used in the 2011-2013 JK, which looks like a sturdy quality filter. The first assembly I bought had a flimsy paper filter that was not of the same quality.
First remove the cowl:
Remove the existing splash guard:
Insert the base:
Put on the cap/splash guard and the three screws into the existing holes. Looks like it will do the job.
Finally, fight with the cowl to get it back into position inside the rubber seal. Not fun working alone but doable.
Hopefully this will not restrict my blower motor and kill it, or any other nasty unintended consequences. Hard top and full doors will be on for Moab so hopefully not a face full of dust and dirt all week but let’s see. I know there is no keeping all of it out but at least a filter gives you a chance.
This one may not agree with some but I am doing it anyway. I don’t like to eat dirt so anything that helps me minimize eating dirt is of interest. Seeing some creative ideas here on how to add a cabin air filter got me checking the wild world of eBay. There are multiple 3D printed solutions available and I tried two of them.
First this one, which does not fit my 2006 due to interference with the cowl sheet metal:
Sorry no pics as I was in a rush a couple weeks ago to install it the night before going on a trip and was so irritated about it that I had to go pour a whiskey.
I doubled down and tried another one and this time it fit my 2006 perfectly:
Here it is ready to be installed:
It uses the same part number air filter as used in the 2011-2013 JK, which looks like a sturdy quality filter. The first assembly I bought had a flimsy paper filter that was not of the same quality.
First remove the cowl:
Remove the existing splash guard:
Insert the base:
Put on the cap/splash guard and the three screws into the existing holes. Looks like it will do the job.
Finally, fight with the cowl to get it back into position inside the rubber seal. Not fun working alone but doable.
Hopefully this will not restrict my blower motor and kill it, or any other nasty unintended consequences. Hard top and full doors will be on for Moab so hopefully not a face full of dust and dirt all week but let’s see. I know there is no keeping all of it out but at least a filter gives you a chance.
Why hard top and full doors in Moab?
Watch out for those errant desert trees... They sneak up on ya
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