32RH issues

[mpbannon]

Hey everyone,
I've got a '97 Wrangler 4.0 that I converted from manual to a 32RH years ago since my wife couldn'tfigureout howtodrove stick. It ran great bit a couple of kids later, I discovered pretty bad body rust and it sat for about 5 years. Fast forward to last year, I swapped the tub, did a bunch of other repairs, and it was driving great again, then the trans started acting up.
First issue was weird shifting. It would go into 2nd like normal, then drop back to 1st real quick before popping back to 2nd. I replaced the TV cable, adjusted it properly, and that fixed it.
Next, it threw a P0740 code for the torque converter lock up solenoid. Figured it wasn't urgent since I don't drive too much on the highway, so I planned to swap the fluid, filter, and solenoid eventually after j figured out a mystery clunk, so I stuck to local driving.
Driving about a mile home from family, it started whining bad and slipping hard in drive. Managed to limp it back in 2nd and 1st gear. Pulled the pan for a fluid and filter change, and sure enough, there were metal shavings and gritty clutch material in there. After the change, it drives better overall, but now it doesn't want to downshift properly. It won't kick down from 2nd to 1st, and sometimes even from 3rd to lower gears.
So, my main question: I'm looking at a rebuild. Planning to grab a standard rebuild kit, plus a new lock-up solenoid and torque converter. Is there anything else I should add to the shopping list? Any brands or kits recommended?

Bonus question: I'm about ready to bail on the auto altogether and swap back to an AX15. I have some left over parts from the donor tub, and I know a manual t-case won't bolt up to an auto trans without modification, but will an auto t-case swap over to an AX15? Just weighing my options before I dive in, as I do miss driving manual.
Any advice or input is appreciated.

 

[macleanflood]

@hear

 

[hear]

For swapping to the manual, there can be some variances in the output shaft & the seal, but that's the extent of my "expertise" on that topic.

For the auto, I agree you most likely have roasted clutches and enough schmutz in your valve body to choke Linda Richman. For the rebuild kit, I normally get a banner kit off ebay. Ideally you don't have to replace the steels, but you won't know till you're in there, and you may not want to wait to get it all opened up before you order your rebuild kit. Not all kits come with the kickdown band, because you don't always need to replace it. You'll never find one with the L/R band, because it is very rare that you need to replace it. Same with the overrun clutch. Same with the bushings. You won't know till you get in there.

There are 2 different connector types for the solenoid which will dictate that purchase, you'll know what kind you need when you remove the pan. You'll need a new torque converter. I normally use the Pro-King CR-90. I highly recommend taking this opportunity to get the summit deep pan, which is like $65. It has a drain plug which trust me, you'll need if you've never done this job before. Probably a good time to get a bung brazed into that new pan and add a temp gauge while you're at it. And as long as you have the case emptied out, maybe consider relocating the breather too.

For tools, you'll need snap ring & lock ring pliers, feeler gauges, and then a small press to overhaul the direct drum. Also, a slide hammer to remove the pump. Watch the playlist in my signature for the details.

the press tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ43TS3?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[mpbannon]

Thanks for the reply! I actually came across your YouTube when I initially started having issues.

I am probably going to wait to order parts until the trans is at least pulled and in the garage. I found a banner kit on ebay from Cobra transmissions, but just checked your rebuild thread and saw you started with Oregon performance transmissions. Would it be beneficial to go through them since you can pick options in one shot, or is ebay the better option for everything and just get it all separately?

I will definitely look into the deep pan and a temp gauge. I am not a huge fan of the smell of ATF, and while I try to do my best, I always make a mess dropping the pan, so as much as I can get out with a drain plug beforehand the better. I also came across an adapter for a can oil filter I was thinking of adding to the oil lines to the cooler, but have to look more into it.

As far as the breather, it may already be relocated. I have a barb fitting on the top, but i never really looked to see if the breather behind the converter was plugged.

 

[hardtailpan]

Bonus question: I'm about ready to bail on the auto altogether and swap back to an AX15. I have some left over parts from the donor tub, and I know a manual t-case won't bolt up to an auto trans without modification, but will an auto t-case swap over to an AX15? Just weighing my options before I dive in, as I do miss driving manual.
Any advice or input is appreciated.

I'll tell you what I know about this.

The 32RH requires the "long" input shaft on the 231J tcase. There used to be a seal adapter/extender for the rear of the 32RH that would allow you to run the "short" input shaft tcase with the 32RH, but these are no longer available. The issue is simply that the seal sits further into the case on this transmission.

As for using the tcase on the AX15, I *think* it works. The only issue will be to make sure that you can fully seat the tcase up against the flange on the AX15. If it seats fully, then the longer input shaft isn't interfering with anything.

This should be obvious, but clearly don't try to pull the tcase onto the transmission with the bolts. If it doesn't go easily, the input shaft is running into interference and you either need to swap the input shaft in the tcase or get another tcase. Since you will have your tcase and transmission on the floor, this is an easy test.

 

[hear]

OPT definitely has the advantage of being able to a la carte things like thrust washers, billet acuumulator, L/R band, etc. It has been my experience that often times those things aren't needed. It probably seems like I have more data than I do, simply because I'm in all these threads, but I have rebuilt a fair number of 32RH's and now other units as well, and it is pretty rare that the bushings & thrust washers show any wear. And this is where my actual inexperience shows off: the thrust washers set various clearances, and I always worry that replacing them will throw off a clearance in a way that I'm not really equipped to deal with. Finding things like the selective snap ring packs have proven non-trivial.

That said, if you want a full blown overhaul and don't mind turning what could be a $300 into a $600 job, then just check yes on everything on the OPT page and you'll have a rock solid rebuild. You should not underestimate how cheap I am. I would re-use the frictions if I wasn't worried about the I told ya so coupled with the effort to re-drop the transmission.

I should add that I'm talking somebody else through a rebuild, and they've hit every problem you could. Broken accumulator, scored pressure plates, bad drum clearance.... if you go in expecting to replace everything you at least won't have the gut punch of "ah crap this needs replaced too??"

You mentioned adding an inline filter. As long as it doesn't restrict the flow, then it's probably not a terrible thing. Factory didn't include one fwiw. But adding a cooler is a worthwhile investment as well. I have a Hayden that I have mounted on the V bar in front of the radiator, plumbed after the radiator. I never run over 170F, I was over 210F post rebuild but pre-cooler. Of course I only know this because I added a temp gauge as well.

For the breather, we'll have to take a look at your pump once you get there to see if it was done well.

 

[mpbannon]

Trust me, with the amount of money I spent getting this think back on the road, I'm definitely looking for the cheapest option! I saw it as a good option for one stop shopping.

The filter idea is for the ease of at least some extra filtering. I may not even bother just ideas. Going to shoot for pulling the trans this weekend and see whats going on.

 

[mpbannon]

Pulled the trans yesterday. Plan on separating the t case and cleaning the outside, and prepping the teardown today. I did end up ordering a banner kit from OPT, and I'm going to wait for anything else to come up.

As I was wiggling the dip stick tube out, the damn thing snapped at the grommet from rust. Ebay doesn't have them cheap... was thinking adapting a clear hose as a sight glass of sorts, but we'll see.

 

[hear]

As I was wiggling the dip stick tube out, the damn thing snapped at the grommet from rust. Ebay doesn't have them cheap... was thinking adapting a clear hose as a sight glass of sorts, but we'll see.

It better seal well, the resting level of the fluid is above the dipstick hole... I have the pre-grommet style and it would never seal up after my rebuild. I ended up using "The Right Stuff" to make it seal. It's bone dry but if if I ever have to drop my trans again I'll have to deal with the cleanup.

 

[mpbannon]

* the fluid was NOT milky, that's just camera flash.
Out of the plethora of tools I have, I do not have a slide hammer, but I did have bolts that fit AND a 33mm deep socket.

Pump is out and almost everything is apart. The rear clutches were toast, but the front looked good. Everything else was in good shape, do it looks like in lucked out on it. Hopefully the kit comes early enough tomorrow so I can start going the other way.

 

[hear]

Nice, you're making quick work. Take extra extra extra care when you put the valve body back together. The throttle valve & sleeve in particular are shown incorrectly in the FSM & ATSG book. Since you've gotten it torn down to this level, I would 100% brake clean the fire out of it & dry it with compressed air. Not a bad time to do that to your case as well. All those passages need to be clean as well.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

+1 on the deep pan w/ the drain plug from Summit; I love having mine because when I have to crack the darn thing open I can avoid pouring a quart or three of ATF on my head.

 

[hear]

If I the pan has to come down on something where I have a nonzero chance of ever seeing this jeep again, the deep pan with the drain plug is a requirement, full stop. I'm not sure why I don't just drill a hole in the old pan to drain it less messily, since my intent is to never use it again.

 

[lBasket]

If I the pan has to come down on something where I have a nonzero chance of ever seeing this jeep again, the deep pan with the drain plug is a requirement, full stop. I'm not sure why I don't just drill a hole in the old pan to drain it less messily, since my intent is to never use it again.

Cos then your drill is oily!!

 

[hear]

Cos then your drill is oily!!

It's a Chicago Electric, I don't even change bits on it, I just throw it away when I'm done using it.

 

[hardtailpan]

+1 on the deep pan w/ the drain plug from Summit; I love having mine because when I have to crack the darn thing open I can avoid pouring a quart or three of ATF on my head.

I really should've done that when mine was sitting on the floor.

 

[hear]

I really should've done that when mine was sitting on the floor.

Past hardtailpan saved $50, future hardtailpan is gonna be pissed.

 

[mpbannon]

This is what I have.

Nice, you're making quick work. Take extra extra extra care when you put the valve body back together. The throttle valve & sleeve in particular are shown incorrectly in the FSM & ATSG book. Since you've gotten it torn down to this level, I would 100% brake clean the fire out of it & dry it with compressed air. Not a bad time to do that to your case as well. All those passages need to be clean as well.

The attached picture is the manual I have. If it the orientation or the picture that is wrong?
I started work on cleaning the gunk off of the outside, and was thinking of throwing everything in the dishwasher with just water.

Definitely going to do the deep pan with a drain plug I hate taking it down without.

 

[hardtailpan]

Past hardtailpan saved $50, future hardtailpan is gonna be pissed.

lets hope I don't have to go back in there for a long time, but yeah, i hear ya.
If i do, i'll be thinking about the drill method lol!

 

[taylormade73]

but yeah, i hear ya.

I see what you did there