Parking brake lever experiment

[mrblaine]

For those of you interested in slightly more holding power from your rear disc parking brake and wants to experiment, some attention can be paid to the Dorman kits and tested to see if they will do what I think they will.

The Dorman TJ kit is dumb. You have to buy a left and a right. Typically about 80 bucks for both sides.
942-293

The 03-05 Explorer kit is very similar with one minor difference. The lever length is longer. This should be enough to help some and it has parts for both sides and is cheaper for the kit than one side of the 293.
942-998

 

[sierradmax]

Great info. I assume that the longer lever is not enough to impede limited cable length?

 

[mrblaine]

Great info. I assume that the longer lever is not enough to impede limited cable length?

Thus my comments about experimental. It is only about 3/8" longer, that shouldn't be a problem but I have not tested it, this is just having the parts in front of me because I ordered them via pictures because it pissed me off that you have to buy two kits for the TJ rear parking brake and they are too costly.

 

[mrblaine]

 

[Rut Row]

I'm hoping this works. The pinched nerve in my right hand (from yanking on the lever) makes getting the brake set difficult. Any help will be awesome!

 

[sab]

Nice discovery, Mr. Blaine. Thanks for sharing that!

 

[TimV]

I'll guinea pig that idea. Part is now in my rockauto cart. Install will not happen until mother nature improves the conditions of my garage (nice garage except no walls or roof). I'll aim to field a report at some time.

 

[Rut Row]

I'll guinea pig that idea. Part is now in my rockauto cart. Install will not happen until mother nature improves the conditions of my garage (nice garage except no walls or roof). I'll aim to field a report at some time.

I'm trying to imagine a garage with no walls or roof. Is it just a slab?

 

[TimV]

I'm trying to imagine a garage with no walls or roof. Is it just a slab?

. Driveway. And -24c this morning. Ya, just gonna wait a while....

 

[Unique Username]

I'll guinea pig that idea. Part is now in my rockauto cart. Install will not happen until mother nature improves the conditions of my garage (nice garage except no walls or roof). I'll aim to field a report at some time.

Same. I’ll have it Wednesday and see what happens.

 

[mrblaine]

Same. I’ll have it Wednesday and see what happens.

Hopefully everyone understands this is not ever to be in lieu of proper adjustment.
If anyone doesn't understand how to do that, we can lay it out again.
Everyone also needs to understand that if you properly adjust the parking brake and drive off with it applied fully, that will shear the anchor pin off and wad up the brake parts inside the drum.

This is only to make it a bit easier to set the brake harder with less effort, nothing more.

 

[Unique Username]

I am going to install it on a friends LJ. His current complaint is that when he sets the brake on the sloped driveway, his daughter struggles to get it to release. If she reports it works I at least have an unbiased opinion to report back.

 

[mrblaine]

I am going to install it on a friends LJ. His current complaint is that when he sets the brake on the sloped driveway, his daughter struggles to get it to release. If she reports it works I at least have an unbiased opinion to report back.

Does she have a working index finger on her right hand?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Does she have a working index finger on her right hand?
View attachment 671014View attachment 671015

Which electric parking brake system is that button running, Blaine?

I have the in-line cutting brake lever system (the one Scott installed), but once I get around to installing it I'll loose the space for the e-brake lever, and I'm considering going with an electric e-brake. I actually have the E-STOPP system sitting in the shop, but I don't know if that is a good system or not.

 

[mrblaine]

Which electric parking brake system is that button running, Blaine?

Mine. I use a late model Toyota pick up Electric Parking Brake (EPB) caliper, modified rotor, and then my own bracket kit I designed for the Dana 44/35.
The controller is by Pantera. Really smart guy who knows what's up with this stuff. The only downside to any of it is expense. None of it is cheap but it has a superbly high amount of force. I wanted an idea of the force, this is a piece of 1/4" 6061 I set in the caliper to space out the force gauge and prevent it from being pushed through the piston bore machining gap in the bridge. (in case you ever wondered why the bridge is shaped with two ears)

I have the in-line cutting brake lever system (the one Scott installed), but once I get around to installing it I'll loose the space for the e-brake lever, and I'm considering going with an electric e-brake. I actually have the E-STOPP system sitting in the shop, but I don't know if that is a good system or not.

I'm not familiar with your rear brakes so all I have is my concerns about what I'm doing and why. I wanted to move away from anything cable actuated. Most of the OEM is moving to EPB due to the ease of adjustment and force. This EPB has a piston diameter equal to the OEM rear TJ or 48mm which was my #1 problem to solve. I've been on the hunt for one for about 8 years and it was only in 2022 that Toyota used one. Lots of 42 and 44 and lots of 51 and 54, Toy is the only 48 I've been able to find and while I could solve the problem of an out of balance bias other ways, I preferred to keep the DD aspect in the highest focus.

Aaron and Scott have both installed them with the stock TJ or similar rear calipers. I would not do that. I don't like shit that takes a lot of effort and expense and then only works half way and I do not have an unnatural attachment to lots of extra levers in the cab. If you have cutting brakes that won't lock up a single tire on one side with an open differential and the other side being driven in 4wd, quit because you have a poorly performing system. The 48mm single piston is not enough to lock up the tire. It needs one more and a lock out to keep it out of use hydraulically for DD use.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Mine. I use a late model Toyota pick up Electric Parking Brake (EPB) caliper, modified rotor, and then my own bracket kit I designed for the Dana 44/35.
The controller is by Pantera. Really smart guy who knows what's up with this stuff. The only downside to any of it is expense. None of it is cheap but it has a superbly high amount of force. I wanted an idea of the force, this is a piece of 1/4" 6061 I set in the caliper to space out the force gauge and prevent it from being pushed through the piston bore machining gap in the bridge. (in case you ever wondered why the bridge is shaped with two ears)
View attachment 671016View attachment 671017View attachment 671018


I'm not familiar with your rear brakes so all I have is my concerns about what I'm doing and why. I wanted to move away from anything cable actuated. Most of the OEM is moving to EPB due to the ease of adjustment and force. This EPB has a piston diameter equal to the OEM rear TJ or 48mm which was my #1 problem to solve. I've been on the hunt for one for about 8 years and it was only in 2022 that Toyota used one. Lots of 42 and 44 and lots of 51 and 54, Toy is the only 48 I've been able to find and while I could solve the problem of an out of balance bias other ways, I preferred to keep the DD aspect in the highest focus.

Aaron and Scott have both installed them with the stock TJ or similar rear calipers. I would not do that. I don't like shit that takes a lot of effort and expense and then only works half way and I do not have an unnatural attachment to lots of extra levers in the cab. If you have cutting brakes that won't lock up a single tire on one side with an open differential and the other side being driven in 4wd, quit because you have a poorly performing system. The 48mm single piston is not enough to lock up the tire. It needs one more and a lock out to keep it out of use hydraulically for DD use.

Interesting setup, Blaine. Thanks for the explanation.

The E-STOPP system that I have on the shelf is just a way to actuate the existing cable-driven e-brake.

 

[mrblaine]

The E-STOPP system that I have on the shelf is just a way to actuate the existing cable-driven e-brake.

I'm aware.

 

[pc1p]

Interesting setup, Blaine. Thanks for the explanation.

The E-STOPP system that I have on the shelf is just a way to actuate the existing cable-driven e-brake.

Aren't you running a 14B rear?? I'm working on getting my JKU 14B setup and running (still doing the Hemi swap) but am working on making something work with OEM parts. I'm getting frustrated with poor fitment, so I am considering the Range Industries kit (https://range-industries.com/produc...xBMij8lrCTzo4_YrAojhfPUpddr7j4XMF-TGBTSftokOI). It works great, though they are modifying it currently to work better with the JKU tone ring. Supposedly, the brake is remarkably strong and simple to install/actuate.

 

[mrblaine]

Aren't you running a 14B rear?? I'm working on getting my JKU 14B setup and running (still doing the Hemi swap) but am working on making something work with OEM parts. I'm getting frustrated with poor fitment, so I am considering the Range Industries kit (https://range-industries.com/produc...xBMij8lrCTzo4_YrAojhfPUpddr7j4XMF-TGBTSftokOI). It works great, though they are modifying it currently to work better with the JKU tone ring. Supposedly, the brake is remarkably strong and simple to install/actuate.

What are you doing for a master? The 1500 EPB is a 51mm piston so a bit oversize from stock.

Their info is slightly off. Not all the EPB stuff is that strong. When I was working with Pantera, I sent over a lot of the force readings we gathered from the Toy EPB and he said we were the only ones he had ever dealt with who actually tested anything. Most of his stuff is set up for the Tesla style EPB caliper which are not very strong comparatively since they are for small vehicles. That would not be true for the 1500 which "should" be designed to hold the max GVWR. I'd use it in a heartbeat to save a ton of money if the piston were smaller.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Aren't you running a 14B rear?? I'm working on getting my JKU 14B setup and running (still doing the Hemi swap) but am working on making something work with OEM parts. I'm getting frustrated with poor fitment, so I am considering the Range Industries kit (https://range-industries.com/produc...xBMij8lrCTzo4_YrAojhfPUpddr7j4XMF-TGBTSftokOI). It works great, though they are modifying it currently to work better with the JKU tone ring. Supposedly, the brake is remarkably strong and simple to install/actuate.

Jeeze, PC - That's sure "How to tell me you are not following my build thread, without telling me you are not following my build thread...)



Just messin' with you, of course.

Not to derail Blaine's thread too far, but yes, I run a 14 bolt. I'm messing with you because I just went through a lengthy and painful regear after smoking a ring gear, and just wrapped it up a few days ago .

What year 14 bolt are you running? I run the newer style (2003+ or so I think) with the stock disc brakes and drum in hat e-brake. I run all stock style dual piston GM calipers, rotor, and e-brake setup, and have never had any issue at all with fitment, or finding parts.

That kit looks interesting, and I've not seen it before. I'll have to check it out.