What else do I need with 2" BDS lift?

[jjvw]

No, the next one. There are two step 8s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The second step 8 is the same concept as the first step 8. (C'mon Mike! You're an engineer! )

Your bumps are extended to keep that first point of interference from happening. Typically, in the front your are concerned with tires contacting the steel fenders at full articulation. In the rear, it is the compressed shocks.

 

[Bruce20]

We can only guess how much you need. Back when things were closer to stick, my 33s require 1.375" front. The rear needed 1" for the shocks. My body lift allows for less front extension. These days, with nearly everything changed, my Jeep has just enough extension to keep things from crashing into other things.

I’m ordering the lift today and I don’t have the tires yet. I will check for the bumpstop once I get everything. I’m removing the fenders for replacing, so this will be a good time to do everything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bruce20]

The second step 8 is the same concept as the first step 8. (C'mon Mike! You're an engineer! )

Your bumps are extended to keep that first point of interference from happening. Typically, in the front your are concerned with tires. In the rear, it is the compressed shocks.

Why can’t things be easy. Like I need 1.5 in front and 1 in the rear? Jeeps are time consuming lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bobthetj03]

So I should need 1.5” of added bumpstop, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1" would be a good place to start, but be prepared to add more if stuff is making contact that shouldn't be.

For reference, here's a pick of the front axle at full bump.

In this pic you can see I added 1" of bumpstop with that black puck. You'll need to drill a hole in the lower spring pad and tap threads to bolt the bumpstop in.
In this pic, I added 2" of bumpstop extension when I bumped up to 33" tires.

After adding the 1" bumps, this is the clearance I had with 32's at full bump.

You'll also want to cycle the suspension while the springs are out to check for clearance issues too.

Here is the rear at full bump.

For the rear, you can typically add more bump stop to the upper jounce bumper cup vs. the lower spring pad because the rear spring don't arch as much front ones do during articulation.

Pictured here you can see the silver spacer added to the top of the jounce bumper cup. You'll also need longer bolts. this is 1" added bumpstop to the rear.

 

[jjvw]

Why can’t things be easy. Like I need 1.5 in front and 1 in the rear? Jeeps are time consuming lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Suspension (done correctly) isn't easy. But once you begin understand the process and how things actually move around down then it becomes easier to figure out what you need to do. Jeeps are an education.

 

[jjvw]

1" would be a good place to start, but be prepared to add more if stuff is making contact that shouldn't be.
....

One caveat. Not having enough extension is as good as having no extension. On the other hand, too much is better than not enough. However, too much extension will unnecessarily reduce suspension travel. The ideal end result is to have just enough to do the job.

 

[Bruce20]

One caveat. Not having enough extension is as good as having no extension. On the other hand, too much is better than not enough. However, too much extension will unnecessarily reduce suspension travel. The ideal end result is to have just enough to do the job.

So I could get 4 2in bumpstops and cut them as necessary?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I’m ordering the lift today and I don’t have the tires yet.

32" tires with a 2" lift would let me feel fine with running the factory bump stops.

 

[Bruce20]

32" tires with a 2" lift would let me feel fine with running the factory bump stops.

Really!? That would be awesome!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jjvw]

So I could get 4 2in bumpstops and cut them as necessary?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. Buy long and cut them down. I use cheap 3x3" plastic body lift pucks bolted to the axle pad and 2x3" pucks above the rear cup. A shorter lift can get away with the 2x3" pucks above the front cup, as well.

 

[Bruce20]

Yes. Buy long and cut them down. I use cheap 3x3" plastic body lift pucks bolted to the axle pad and 2x3" pucks above the rear cup. A shorter lift can get away with the 2x3" pucks above the front cup, as well.

How much?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jjvw]

32" tires with a 2" lift would let me feel fine with running the factory bump stops.

I disagree and I have pictures to prove it. But if the suspension is never fully flexed then you'll never know that there is a problem with the tires being able to eat the fenders.

 

[Bruce20]

I disagree and I have pictures to prove it. But if the suspension is never fully flexed then you'll never know that there is a problem with the tires being able to eat the fenders.

So is the tires eating the fenders the biggest concern?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jjvw]

How much?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

About $20 for all four.

My front was fine with the extension above the cup at about 2" of lift. I moved it to the axle pad after adjusting the front pinion and other changes caused the cup to pluck the coils as the suspension cycled.

 

[Bruce20]

About $20 for all four.

My front was fine with the extension above the cup at about 2" of lift. I moved it to the axle pad after adjusting the front pinion and other changes caused the cup to pluck the coils as the suspension cycled.

What?!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jjvw]

So is the tires eating the fenders the biggest concern?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the front, that is the typical first point of interference. Bear in mind that in not referring to the flexible plastic flares, only the sheet metal.

 

[Bruce20]

In the front, that is the typical first point of interference. Bear in mind that in not referring to the flexible plastic flares, only the sheet metal.

How long will it take me to figure out how much bumpstop I need?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jjvw]

What?!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I answered the question both ways. What can I better clarify?

If the question is how much to cut them, then we can only guess.

 

[Bruce20]

I answered the question both ways. What can I better clarify?

So you didn’t need any bumpstop up front?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I disagree and I have pictures to prove it. But if the suspension is never fully flexed then you'll never know that there is a problem with the tires being able to eat the fenders.

I say it is fine with personal experience when I installed my first lift, a 2" with 32" tires. WIth the standard pinion angle as is typically run with just a 2" suspension lift. The 2" suspension lift gives 2" more clearance above the tire which at 2" larger diameter, is 1" taller between the axle and top of the tire. It worked fine for me, it never gave me any tire rub that I could detect. But that's just my personal experience running a 2" lift with 32" tires about 20 years ago.

And I'm not about to get into a long drawn-out discussion on such a basic lift. Yes I run taller bump stops with my present TJ but that's a whole different ballgame.