2 inch BDS lift

It says 3.97. I don’t see the point in that upgrade. I know you should, but it is so minimal. The is the optimal ratio for 32s.


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What says what?

Ok, what are your guys setups?


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I listed my suspension set up. I also run a Rough Country HD tie rod, 4.88, Aussie locker in front, Truetrac in rear. Axles are stock but the fronts have the stronger 5-760X u joint. Stock drive shafts as well with a motor mount lift to correct angles for now. But, I am on 31's so that makes a difference. If I was on 33's I would definitely go with a Super 35 kit in the rear.
 
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What says what?


I listed my suspension set up. I also run a Rough Country HD tie rod, 4.88, Aussie locker in front, Truetrac in rear. Axles are stock but the fronts have the stronger 5-760X u joint. Stock drive shafts as well with a motor mount lift to correct angles for now. But, I am on 31's so that makes a difference. If I was on 33's I would definitely go with a Super 35 kit in the rear.

Grimmjeeper says 3.97 with 32s. You have 4.88s with 31s!! What is your rpm at 75mph? What was stock ratio since you have Dana 35?


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That’s a cool little calculator. Thanks for sharing. And thanks to the OP for this thread. This further cements my choice to go with the 32’s and semi-light alloys with my Dana 44 3.73. With the 3.73 and 33’s, on the graph and just like it was in those Jeeps I test drove, you can definitely see how it starts to lug in cases where you would normally shift for better fuel economy and to quiet the engine. Highway passing performance starts to get much poorer as well. If I were to go 33’s and regear, I would just go for 4.56 no doubt. That would be the perfect TJ setup for looks and driveability for a 99% street Jeep and decent off-road capability, IMO. But, like we said, then you have to get a more expensive 3”+ lift to do it right, and you start getting into the higher risk of geometry problems and needing an SYE, longer driveshaft etc. If I were to go 3”, I would just plan to do SYE/DS as well. That starts getting into about 2.5 times, and probably even 3 times the cost to get into the 33’s (to do it properly).

Luckily, the the OP and I have both have the Dana 44/3.73. The cost of even doing 32’s properly would be quite a bit more for the 3.07 cheaper axle. After test driving a couple base X’s, I really don’t see how folks can live with the 3.07, especially the automatics, after adding the larger tires. Even 31’s make them a dog on my test drives. It just doesn’t feel safe on the highway if you need to get out of a dangerous position quickly.
 
Grimmjeeper says 3.97 with 32s. You have 4.88s with 31s!! What is your rpm at 75mph? What was stock ratio since you have Dana 35?


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So round up to 4.10. Not every number that pops out will equate to an available ratio. I am 3K at 67 mph, I don't run it at 75. To note, I have the 2.4 so it needs rpm to make any power. It came stock with 3.73 which was pretty weak even with 31's.

The 4.88 is good on the hwy but, it is awesome off road. In 4lo it will idle down as steep of a descent as I am willing to go. And it climbs just as well.
 
Ok, what are your guys setups?


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33s, NV3550, 4.88, Currie 4", 1.25" body lift, 1" MML, Savvy tummy tuck, Savvy 3/4 link mid arms, DC rear drive shaft. Lots of shock work. Many other things.

Basically, mine is well built for 35s, but is still on 33s for now. If you want an example of a driveline challenge with several small solutions that all add up to something that works, I have one.
 
The 4.88 is good on the hwy but, it is awesome off road. In 4lo it will idle down as steep of a descent as I am willing to go. And it climbs just as well.
That’s just it, I will only need it for on road and when winter hits, I need it to get through snow. If I go 4.88s, I feel like I will just spin in the snow. The only off-roading that I’ll do is some very light trails. This whole gearing thing is a tad bit confusing. If I have a 44 in the rear, do I have a 35 up front? Would I go 4.10/4.88 in front and rear? Like I said, I want to get the lift and tires on, then do this stuff because this is my dd and I don’t want to be driving around with my lift and 30s, while I’m saving up for the wheels and tires. I would rather have lift, wheels and tires and then get the re-gearing late this summer.



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To note, I have the 2.4 so it needs rpm to make any power.
I shouldn’t need as much gearing as you though, since I have the torque monster engine and will be running tires an inch bigger than you.



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That’s just it, I will only need it for on road and when winter hits, I need it to get through snow. If I go 4.88s, I feel like I will just spin in the snow. The only off-roading that I’ll do is some very light trails. This whole gearing thing is a tad bit confusing. If I have a 44 in the rear, do I have a 35 up front? Would I go 4.10/4.88 in front and rear? Like I said, I want to get the lift and tires on, then do this stuff because this is my dd and I don’t want to be driving around with my lift and 30s, while I’m saving up for the wheels and tires. I would rather have lift, wheels and tires and then get the re-gearing late this summer.



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https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...d-what-the-difference-is-with-each-axle.9060/

The frequently asked questions sub section of this forum is a great place to binge through for new memebers of this forum. I still use it often to build my knowledge base.
 
If I have a 44 in the rear, do I have a 35 up front? Would I go 4.10/4.88 in front and rear?

Like I said in my second post in this thread, I would highly suggest reading more in depth on not only differential gearing but Jeep basics before jumping into modifying your TJ. Not trying to be confrontational or talk down to you, it’s just my .02.
 
Like I said in my second post in this thread, I would highly suggest reading more in depth on not only differential gearing but Jeep basics before jumping into modifying your TJ. Not trying to be confrontational or talk down to you, it’s just my .02.

It isn’t my first Jeep. I’ve had cjs and I was just wondering if I would clear the 32s with a 2 inch lift since the cjs have different suspension setups.


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It isn’t my first Jeep. I’ve had cjs and I was just wondering if I would clear the 32s with a 2 inch lift since the cjs have different suspension setups.


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The answer to that question is a Yes. :)
 
I shouldn’t need as much gearing as you though, since I have the torque monster engine and will be running tires an inch bigger than you.



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So, I didn't say you need 4.88, only that it is what I run. Although, with the NV3550, you could run a 4.88 and 32. It would put you at 2800 at 75. And no you won't be spinning out in the snow, unless you are goosing the throttle.

Gearing is gearing, for the most part. Sure, you can go ultra low for a trail only rig but few people go that route. So you gear for what puts your engine in the most efficient torque range in top gear for your engine. And yes, the 4.0 is pretty torquey for what it is. But I wouldn't call it a "torque monster."
 
@Bruce20, please post pics if you move forward soon. Will be especially curious to see how you like the lift if you do it before me. I have heard good things about BDS, and their warranty is hard to beat. Good value from what I have seen and researched so far. I was ready to pull the trigger on my lift and 32’s pretty quick here, but then we had an unfortunate plumbing emergency that cost us a nice chunk of change :(. Now I’m just waiting on some funds to arrive from another source so I can get going with this. I still hope to do it within the next couple months, but we’ll see how it goes.
 
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@Bruce20, please post pics if you move forward soon. Will be especially curious to see how you like the lift if you do it before me. I have heard good things about BDS, and their warranty is hard to beat. Good value from what I have seen and researched so far. I was ready to pull the trigger on my lift and 32’s pretty quick here, but then we had an unfortunate plumbing emergency that cost us a nice chunk of change :(. Now I’m just waiting on some funds to arrive from another source so I can get going with this. I still hope to do it within the next couple months, but we’ll see how it goes.

Will do, I should be getting it here soon. Vacation is gonna mess me up, but I should have it in by the end of July.


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