32RH Transmission Swap From AX-15

[hosejockey61]

The time has come for me to finally do my auto swap. This is intended to include thoughts and direction from the forum members as well as eventually be a "how to" guide (move thread later) as I don't have a build thread.

Current setup is a 1998 TJ, 4.0, AX-15, 241 t-case, and 5:13 gears D).

I've reached the point where I really need to focus on control when navigating very tough or steep obstacles. I've been a stick guy forever, but it's time.

I've been collecting parts for over a year (or twoish?), and I think I have everything I need minus a couple of items.

First, last time I was at the junkyard I found a clean 32RH out of another 1998. Looks REALLY good (more on that later).

Here are pictures of the transmission as pulled from the yard. I grabbed the torque converter, flex plate with stiffener, and bolts.

 

[hosejockey61]

I have picked up 4 different 32RH transmissions while on my scavenger hunts. I picked up for me, one for @tworley, and then a spare to make a rebuild video. Then I found this clean one and grabbed it also. I sold the original spare I had which covered the cost for all of them, so I'm into this for minimal dollars in parts.

This led me to collecting multiples of some parts which allows me to use the best available. I bought a deep pan and had Blaine braze in a bung for a temp sensor. I also bought a flex plate as none of the previous were there when I pick the parts. The last one was there so I grabbed it. I bought cooling lines from SS tubes.

 

[hosejockey61]

I decided today was the day to figure out what I have and what I still need as our Sand Hollow trip is only a little more than 30 days out. I started by putting all the parts on welding table to see what I had. The I went right into cleaning mode. If I have a problem, I want to be able to see where it's coming from without all the sand and mud caked on. First thing I did was spill ATF all down my leg from the dipstick tube hole. That sucked, but at least I could see that it was very clean ATF with no funny smells.

 

[hosejockey61]

While cleaning the tranny, I found a sticker on the bottom of the pan. I researched it and found out this is a remanufactured transmission. I'm not sure what to think about that other it means it should be in good shape. I don't need to worry about one with 200K miles. The fluid was very clean and smelled normal. Fingers crossed for sure. Worst case scenario, I have the spare I can install if this one has any issues. The Torque converter also looks new. I hope I'm this lucky.

 

[rasband]

Woot, welcome to the club!

 

[hosejockey61]

Before tearing into my rig, I gave @mrblaine a call to inquire about the 241 t-case to see if there would be an issue with the seal compared to the 231. He had a 241 sitting there and I had the 32RH sitting there so we did some measuring. I previously picked up a seal extender from him just in case it was needed. Good thing I did as I will be using it. Blaine has been a tremendous help in making sure I do this right the first time. The other person that has a lot of 32RH experience is @hear, so I put him on notice that I'll be reaching out as needed. This forum has the best people for sure.

 

[rasband]

Someone needs to wake up @starkey480 - he did this swap too. Fortunately it seems like you're ahead of him in your collection, he had some issues finding a few various parts (dipstick being one IIRC).

 

[hosejockey61]

Now I know I'm not the first one to do this swap. However, finding information on the web, or even this forum, is very fragmented at best. I'm hoping to capture the majority of it here for anyone else who make contemplate this swap.

First off, the PCM will need to be flashed. Wranglerfix is the go to and damn are they fast!

The parts list so far. PLEASE CHIME IN IF I'M MISSING ANYTHING!

• Transmission
• Torque converter with bolts
• Flex plate with stiffener and low profile bolts
• Dust shield spacer with inspection cover
• Bell housing bolts
• Dipstick and tube along with grommet (new preferred)
• Crankshaft position sensor
• Cooling lines to radiator
• Brake pedal
• Shifter with bezel and floor plate
• TV cable
• Interlock cable (truly needed?) (iF YOU DON'T MIND YOUR RIG SLIPPING OUT OF DRIVE AND ROLLING OVER A CLIFF, YOU DON'T NEED ONE)
• Seal extender
• Deep pan with bung for temp sensor
• Firewall block off plate (still need)
• OEM radiator if you don't already have one
• Temperature gauge (880260)
• Seal
• Bushing 32RH doesn't use one

 

[rasband]

• Firewall block off plate (still need)

If it's similar or the same as the late model, I can scan mine and 3d print you one as a backup option.

I don't know if the late model list I have carries over but in case they do:

1. Crank bushing that swaps in where the pilot bearing (and its bushing) go.
2. Steering column housing is different
3. Different starter (and bolts)

 

[hosejockey61]

If it's similar or the same as the late model, I can scan mine and 3d print you one as a backup option.

I don't know if the late model list I have carries over but in case they do:

1. Crank bushing that swaps in where the pilot bearing (and it's bushing) go.
2. Steering column housing CLAM SHELL is different
3. Different starter (and bolts)

I already added the bushing (NOT NEEDED WITHT THE 32RH). I've not seen the steering column housing (CLAMSHELL COVER WILL NEED TO BE CHANGED) nor different starter with any 32RH research (STARTER CHANGE NOT NEEDED UNTIL 2003. SAME STARTER 97-02).

 

[rasband]

I already added the bushing. I've not seen the steering column housing nor different starter with any 32RH research. @hear can you verify?

Does the early model have the push button interlock on the column by the cylinder to remove the key?

 

[hosejockey61]

Other considerations.

• I have a crossmember instead of a normal tranny mount, so I'll have to get that figured out as well. I'll see when I get under there.
• The 32RH is shorter than the AX-15. I'll have to measure to see if it will affect the rear driveshaft length.
• Breather relocation
• Re-gear from 5:13 (this will be fun for awhile before the re-gear)

 

[hear]

Manuals have the push button key release, autos don't. Or at least none that I've ever seen. My autos all have a black plastic "key guide" that turns with the key. My manuals have a "naked" ignition cylinder; its just the key directly into the slot. If that makes even a lick of sense. I guess I could go take a pic of the auto. The manual is in Arkansas currently.

 

[hosejockey61]

Does the early model have the push button interlock on the column by the cylinder to remove the key?

Yeah but I'm hoping I can just delete that cable (at least for now)

 

[macleanflood]

We just had a forum post about SS Tubes malforming fuel line quick disconnects.

Might want to check the ends of your hard lines.

-Mac

 

[hear]

Other considerations.

• I have a crossmember instead of a normal tranny mount, so I'll have to get that figured out as well. I'll see when I get under there.
• The 32RH is shorter than the AX-15. I'll have to measure to see if it will affect the rear driveshaft length.
• Vent relocation

Good questions... the trans mount is 2 pieces. The rubber bit that bolts through the skid, and then the exhaust hangar plate thing that goes between the transmission mount and the case. There's a hole on the passenger side that the exhaust support bar slides through. No clue how that works on a manual.

You mean the transmission breather? You can either weld the pump vent closed or tap it and thread a plug in. Then drill & tap a hole on the top aft of where the kickdown band is, so like 2-3" behind the "shoulder" on top of the case. I'm 99% certain that every post about it puking fluid after the breather relo is because there was a low point in the new breather hose that allowed fluid to collect. Mine puked until I fixed that, hasn't happened in going on 4 years.

 

[hosejockey61]

Good questions... the trans mount is 2 pieces. The rubber bit that bolts through the skid, and then the exhaust hangar plate thing that goes between the transmission mount and the case. There's a hole on the passenger side that the exhaust support bar slides through. No clue how that works on a manual.

You mean the transmission breather? You can either weld the pump vent closed or tap it and thread a plug in. Then drill & tap a hole on the top aft of where the kickdown band is, so like 2-3" behind the "shoulder" on top of the case. I'm 99% certain that every post about it puking fluid after the breather relo is because there was a low point in the new breather hose that allowed fluid to collect. Mine puked until I fixed that, hasn't happened in going on 4 years.

Yes breather.

I'm not too worried about the exhaust hanger. I can make that work. The crossmember should be straight forward.

 

[hear]

I think I did a write up with the innards still in the transmission. Much easier with it already gutted.

 

[Apparition]

 

[tworley]

What are you going to use for a cooler?