TJ lift help

[Cdyreng]

Hoping I can find some help here. Recently got into the tj world. Looking for a lift and need advice.
I just bought a 99 Sahara and am starting to modify it. I believe it’s got two inch blocks on the front and a 1 inch block on the rear. I am not a fan of this. I’m looking at Currie springs and just trying to decide what size. I’ll peice the rest together myself and will take advice on the rest as well. All input is very much appreciated!

A little background. You can skip down if you don’t care. My first jeep ever was a 01 xj. It was my highschool vehicle. I love it. I threw a 3” rough country lift on it and it was fine. I felt lit rode pretty soft which I like. I certainly broke it in plenty lol. Then I got a wj and through a 4” IRO long arm kit on and I also love it. It is my hunting rig and was going for as comfortable as a ride as I could hence the long arm lift. IRO may not have been the best choice for comfort but I’ve adjust things to my liking an absolutely love the vehicle. I do all the work myself. Kinda my hobbie. So now I bought the tj and it’s been way fun so far.

So now I’m looking at going up to either a 3” or 4” lift from the 2” pucks. It currently has 33s on it and it looks like the just went over the top with bump stops to make them work. I will at least keep the 33s on it. Maybe one day I go to 35s but I’m undecided. I’m a firm believer in buy once cry once but I’m going to do this kinda slow. The tj is mainly a fun vehicle. I’ve got some good mountains in my area with some fairly serious trails( for just mountains) nothing like Moab or anything. So I do definitely care about ride quality. I want to make it smooth as I can but a wrangler doesn’t get too comfortable so whatever. Anyways I will wheel this vehicle. Nothing too crazy but I am open to the idea of getting into going to Moab eventually. I don’t want to under build this vehicle but I do feel like 4” might be a bit much. However my mind is open to 4”. Just looking for recommendations here. Open to going to a long arm someday if that’s what anyone thinks I should do. I’ve loved it on my wj just don’t know if it’s worth the extra work. Seems like people on threads tend not to be a fan of long arms. Anyways. If you guys could give me recommendations on lift size I’d appreciate it. Any must dos or things to avoid on these tjs are appreciated as well

 

[macleanflood]

Thread 'So you want to run 35" tires on your TJ?'

Oct 19, 2016

I felt this thread was necessary at this point. We see a lot of people on the forum who insist on running 35" tires, but probably don't know how to do it properly, or what's required (other than just the tires and lift).

For anyone considering adding 35" tires to their TJ, first take into consideration that this is no small feat. You're going to need at minimum several thousand dollars set aside. Sure, there's ways to do it on the cheap, but if you plan on off-roading your TJ at all, you'll want to do it right.

I'm going to give you a run down of what you'll need to properly run 35"...

• Chris
• Replies: 177
• Forum: TJ Resources

• 

 

[Cdyreng]

Thread 'So you want to run 35" tires on your TJ?'

Oct 19, 2016

I felt this thread was necessary at this point. We see a lot of people on the forum who insist on running 35" tires, but probably don't know how to do it properly, or what's required (other than just the tires and lift).

For anyone considering adding 35" tires to their TJ, first take into consideration that this is no small feat. You're going to need at minimum several thousand dollars set aside. Sure, there's ways to do it on the cheap, but if you plan on off-roading your TJ at all, you'll want to do it right.

I'm going to give you a run down of what you'll need to properly run 35"...

• Chris
• Replies: 177
• Forum: TJ Resources

• 

So let’s say I intend on just staying with 33” tires. Would you recommend I just do 3 inches or is going to 4 worth while?

 

[AndyG]

You are in the right place. Accurate TJ knowledge is what we are about.

I’ve had several lifts of different brand, height etc.


2” and a body lift may be a good consideration - you can tuck the tummy some and not get into hard to dial in driveline angles-

Expect consequences if you go 3” or more- a slip yoke eliminator is needed, possibly a rear double cardan shaft and adjustable uppers at least.

 

[macleanflood]

Thread 'A recipe for an affordable but quality 2.5" lift'

Oct 11, 2020

Thanks to @CodaMan for laying the ground work for this one as he inspired me to write this thread as a resource for others.

The issue is that I see people constantly posting about purchasing the OME 2.5" lift, Rough County 2.5" lifts, or others "lift kits". In reality, I think you can save a lot of money and get better quality parts if you piece together your own lift. The problem I have with the OME lift is that the newer shocks they switched to years ago ride terrible in comparison to the shocks they used to use. Rough Country is the same way in that the shocks they include in...

• Chris
• Replies: 238
• Forum: TJ Resources

• 
• 

 

[DaveC]

4" is generally considered the necessary total lift to run 33s. That can be via 4" spring lift or a combination of spring lift + body lift.

 

[Cdyreng]

You are in the right place. Accurate TJ knowledge is what we are about.

I’ve had several lifts of different brand, height etc.


2” and a body lift may be a good consideration - you can tuck the tummy some and not get into hard to dial in driveline angles-

Expect consequences if you go 3” or more- a slip yoke eliminator is needed, possibly a rear double cardan shaft and adjustable uppers at least.

I am more than willing to put money into it. I will at least do adjustable control arms all the way around. i guess my biggest question is how much ride quality do I lose going from 3” to 4”

 

[TheBoogieman]

Know your end goal tire size since regearing it twice isn't cheap.

 

[TheBoogieman]

i guess my biggest question is how much ride quality do I lose going from 3” to 4”

Ride height has nothing to do with ride quality if you get good shocks and the correct length.

 

[AndyG]

I am more than willing to put money into it. I will at least do adjustable control arms all the way around. i guess my biggest question is how much ride quality do I lose going from 3” to 4”

A lot of your ride quality will really be the tires you run and the tire pressure as well as what Boog said.

spending money doesn’t equate to improving the rig- but I think you know a good bit going in and you’re smart enough to get on here and ask the right questions.


As long as you spend the money on the right things and you’re already making an effort with this thread to do that that you’re going to do great.



A lot of times your biggest challenge is steering because you lose caster as you
lift and sometimes the rigs have some existing slop in the system … and the lift seems to magnify that… and part of it is, you’re just sort of mentally anticipating problems.

I have a TJR that has a 2 inch lift and a body lift and it drives so good and tight. I’m scared to do anything to it.

I have an LJR with a 4 inch lift and a body lift and it absolutely rides and drives fantastic and I would say it’s just about the barometer of optimum handling characteristics for one of these…. and I’m basing that from what one of the most accomplished builders alive told me about the rig

This is not about me bragging about mine. It’s about trying to stress the fact that you can get great results.

The first thing you have to do is eliminate everybody that really doesn’t understand how to set these things up.

 

[cpwolf]

I would agree with what they've said good quality tires, Good shocks and I'd add good parts/bushings etc...so it's all tight.

I bought mine with a lift and 33's and it was a disaster, ha.

If you're willing to spend....and even if not, but since you are...you can absolutely get a TJ that is lifted and rides amazing.

I got Currie 4" springs, zero complaints, but....I put on 35's, and I had to run down the entire rabbit hole and come out the other end.
Savvy Adjustable Control Arms
Tom Wood's Double Cardan Drive Shaft
JB Conversions Super Short SYE
Adjustable Currie Track Bars front and back
Currie Currectlync Steering
Rancho RS5000x etc...
BFG's aired to 23lbs
then body lift, motor mount lift and the Savvy Trans skid and engine skid

I can drive 75 on the tollway with one finger on the wheel, it handles bumps etc and drives as well as a stock Jeep day 1.

From the advice here...oh and had to gear to 4.88's, ha.

Not than anyone said that...but on FB or other forums...."It drives like a Jeep" or "It leaks like a Jeep"....f'ng BS.
I have a CJ5 with a 304 NO leaks, and a TJ 4.0 with NO leaks.

I do have an 08 JK that leaks all over...but I haven't fixed them yet...my son had it ha.

 

[AndyG]

I would agree with what they've said good quality tires, Good shocks and I'd add good parts/bushings etc...so it's all tight.

I bought mine with a lift and 33's and it was a disaster, ha.

If you're willing to spend....and even if not, but since you are...you can absolutely get a TJ that is lifted and rides amazing.

I got Currie 4" springs, zero complaints, but....I put on 35's, and I had to run down the entire rabbit hole and come out the other end.
Savvy Adjustable Control Arms
Tom Wood's Double Cardan Drive Shaft
JB Conversions Super Short SYE
Adjustable Currie Track Bars front and back
Currie Currectlync Steering
Rancho RS5000x etc...
BFG's aired to 23lbs
then body lift, motor mount lift and the Savvy Trans skid and engine skid

I can drive 75 on the tollway with one finger on the wheel, it handles bumps etc and drives as well as a stock Jeep day 1.

From the advice here...oh and had to gear to 4.88's, ha.

Not than anyone said that...but on FB or other forums...."It drives like a Jeep" or "It leaks like a Jeep"....f'ng BS.
I have a CJ5 with a 304 NO leaks, and a TJ 4.0 with NO leaks.

I do have an 08 JK that leaks all over...but I haven't fixed them yet...my son had it ha.

When I did my white Rubicon, I knew just enough to know that the quality of the components was a big part of the formula…

I’m not even going to attempt to talk about what brand is best or anything like that but if you can get past what you think is good and get into things that are really made good and go to the right procedures to set everything up… you’ll be amazed at the results.

I say that, and I’m also the same person that knows that there is a lot that I don’t know-

Another thing that I’ve learned along the way is that if you spend the money for the good stuff, the jeep will retain its good characteristics for a lot longer than it will if you go cheap

I’m not really trying to sell the thread OP on these ideas. I’m just probably stating the obvious…. but I feel like I can do that with a little conviction because I have a little experience…. both good and bad.

But all this is just stating something that most everyone knows but one thing that’s real important is you have to really take it all the way if you’re going to get the best results.


Sometimes people don’t know they need to do other things and can’t figure out why everything went to pieces after the lift or they didn’t budget properly and ran out of money… often for the same reason.

And you get into some things that are unknown like somewhere between 3 1/2 and 4 inches. You may have to get a hold of Tom Woods and do a rear CV shaft…. whether you want to or not. And you may build a near identical rig and never have that problem..

 

[Chris]

So let’s say I intend on just staying with 33” tires. Would you recommend I just do 3 inches or is going to 4 worth while?

4" if you want to maintain factory up-travel specs (which you do).