Bumper finish
- Thread starter glwood
- Start date
Needed or not? If towing anything, I would say so. Also if planning on using the rear bumper/receiver as a recovery point, as it would add the strength of the frame, and not just rely on the rear cross member, where the bumper is bolted without the frame tie-ins.
The Ebay tie-ins I got came with bolts that had tabs welded on to the bolts, which allow you to fish them into the frame hole, plus keep the bolt from turning as you tighten the nut. Really simple installation.
I had a rear bumper on my YJ that I had for years that I towed with and used as recovery points, and had no issues with the rear crossmember in all of the years I had it with no tie ins. In fact I have never heard of them till I joined this forum. I am probably going to get them because they are cheap and easy to put on, but I have had my rear bumper on without it, and towed many times over the last year with no issues. I am thinking I would be OK without them, but why not put them on? Cheap insurance.
They should. If you look at the photo below, most bumpers mount to the stock holes you see on the right. The frame tie-ins use those same holes and bolts, and just give you strengthened mounting point. I could probably have gone without those, I just tend to overdo things most of the time.
I believe so, I don't want to promise that, but I am pretty sure it will work on my Dirtworx, and @JMT runs them and I don't believe he has a Poison Spyder bumper. Plus the site says 97-2006 TJ-LJ so I am assuming they will work with most bumpers. It looks like they line up with factory holes so as long as your bumper uses the factory holes you are probably good!
They should work with any TJ bumper since they all use the stock mounting holes and the frame tie-in’s use stock frame holes. Also, I liked the Poison Spyder because if you note in the pic of the frame tie in above, the rear body mount is just above the frame tie in, and the brace on the frame tie-in can interfere with removing it, but the Poison Spyder one’s have a larger brace on the tie in with a hole for your drill to fit through to remove that rear body mount, if needed to replace or to add or remove a body lift. Just a nice touch that makes things easier.
Lol I agree, go too dark before I could take pics. I will try tomorrow. As far as my painy job, I am happy with it, but I think satin or what others previousy in thread did, looks a little better. I did fine textured. Looks good but not the most even. Some is rubbing off where it closes, but I dont see a fix to that
We want to see!
There is a two inch receiver hole straight up on the arm so there is angle welded to a receiver type plug. The Jack is bolted to the angle.
Imagine your rear bumper with a receiver hole. And you take a hitch plug and gut the end off and weld on a piece of angle. But the hitch hole is straight down the middle from the top.
I guess it is hard to explain, but the hilift is bolted to angle that is welded onto a plug that slips in a hole on the top of the swing out arm.
Oh wait haha I see you have the same bumper you know exactly what I am talking about, so the question is how did I bolt it?
So looking at your picture, I turned the plug around 180 degrees.
Wait let me see if i can get a picture. I think it will be easier to see then me trying to describe it. brb
