Help me spend my money

[The Fireman]

Hello, new guy here to this great forum I've been reading a lot of old threads and the wealth of knowledge here is amazing. I'm in the process of building up my 04 Willys edition to be a good overland rig that will mostly see pavement and logging roads with some mild-moderate trails thrown in as well. I'm looking to upgrade to 33's from the 31's that I'm currently on and plan on driving this jeep on several long (1000+ mile) road trips over the next several years exploring Moab, the Rockies in Colorado, Arizona and the southwest along with our area in central NY.

After a lot of research my original plan was regear to 4.56, 33's install 2.5" OME lift along with a 1.25" body lift, belly up skid plate from UFW, sye and associated parts to correct rear pinion angle.

With that goal in mind a friend of mine sold me his jeep with a lot of body rust as a parts jeep that is geared to 4.56 with a Detroit in the rear, has good 33's a SYE and CV driveshaft already installed. Skyjacker 4" lift (no way am I swapping that over) and lots of other good parts that will help keep my 01 sport daily driver and the 04 running for a long time.

I was planning on just swapping the axles, transfer case with SYE and buying the OME lift along with skid plate, and body lift but when I got looking I see that the upper rear control arms in my parts jeep are still stock so the pinion angle is off for the CV drive shaft so I would need to buy those as well. After pricing out a set of Currie arms I'm running into a bit of a decision on which way to go with this build.

Buying the parts that I need for my original set up is within a few hundred dollars of buying a Currie 4" lift with out an anti-rock as I already have one of those waiting to be installed. I'm hoping that the more experienced folks here can help me with my decision, do I go with the 2.5" OME lift and a tummy tuck knowing that I need to buy adjustable control arms or should I just take the plunge and spring for the Currie 4" kit, Rancho shocks and stick with the factory skid.

Either way I'm looking for reliability and quality the last thing I want to do is buy a lift kit and have to replace most of it down the road because I tried to cut corners on the build.

Thanks for the help and I'll post some pics as the build progresses but for now here's a pic of our current setup after a off-road trip in New Hampshire last month. Oh and the pocket flares are going in favor of some flat fenders as soon as I get around to building them.

 

[Chris]

Ahhh... Do I go with a 2.5" OME lift or a 4" Currie / Savvy lift.

Well, I have done both and gone from the OME lift to the Savvy lift, and I know @ac_ has done the same as well (though he went with Currie).

First off, if you think you are going to forever run 31s, then by all means, get the OME lift. If you're going to run 33s with the possibility of eventually running 35s (trust me, if you're like most of us, you WILL run 35s eventually), then get the 4" Currie or Savvy lift.

I started out with an OME lift and 31s thinking I would never change. Then I realized I wanted bigger tires, went to 33s, and decided I'd like a better lift (one with adjustable control arms), so I went with a Savvy lift.

Then one day I realized I wanted 35s, and I decided okay, let's add a 1.25" body lift, a tummy tuck, etc.

If I could go back in time and meet my past self, I would say, "Don't mess around with any of this other stuff. Build it with big in mind from the beginning.".

I would have saved myself a ton of time, money, and frustration.

If you're anything like the majority of us, you won't be able to stay with 31s, you'll eventually want 33s, then 35s, etc. For this reason, I highly suggest just throwing the best parts at it from the beginning. Put a 4" suspension lift on it, throw a 1" body lift on it, put those axles on it, and build it BIG.

What's the worst that happens? You'll have a Jeep that is way overbuilt for the type of stuff you want to do? So what! Being overbuilt is better than being under built. Hell, being overbuilt might actually encourage you to try trails you wouldn't have tried otherwise.

There's a lot of talk going on of "What type of terrain do you wheel in?" or "What do you actually need versus what do you want?".

I don't give a crap what type of terrain you wheel in. With a nice, well built TJ, you can wheel in any kind of terrain you want. At that point it's just going to come down to your driver skills and your recovery skills.

So with that being said, I say GO BIG OR GO HOME. Spend as much as you can afford to spend and have fun doing it. You only live once, and if you think you'll have this thing for a long time, believe me when I say it will be worth it. The adventures and fun you'll have in your TJ far outweigh anything else.

 

[ac_]

"or should I just take the plunge and spring for the Currie 4" kit, Rancho shocks and stick with the factory skid."
That's what I did ^^.

But here is something to consider, If you don't do a 2" and you want to run 33's you will have to do a body lift, and you will also have to do a body lift if you want to do a TT. But if you go with the 4", like I did, you don't need a body lift.

So what I am saying is if you go with a 4" and decide that you want to do a tummy tuck later, you will need a body lift, and then your 33's will be dwarfed.

Do a pros and cons list.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

For 33's, 4" of additional tire clearance is strongly recommended for the type of uses you mentioned. A 4" Currie suspension would be awesome, that's a superb product, but you can also spend less $$$ for a Zone 4.25" combination lift that includes a 3" suspension lift plus a 1.25" body lift. I run a Currie myself but that Zone 4.25" kit gives a lot of bang for the buck.

You will love that Detroit Locker, I ran one for years in my previous TJ and I miss the hell out of it. That particular locker does well on everything but icy surfaces so if you will have to drive on icy roads or trails, just be wary and drive it carefully.

 

[Mike_H]

I'd say if you're planning on a tummy tuck do the OME lift, Savvy BL, and some nice control arms. Otherwise, as @ac_ said, you'll be "overlifted" for 33's.

 

[FireJeep]

So, I usually agree with what Chris says, but in this case I would beg to differ. Although I have an LJ and not a TJ I have been running 285 75R16 (32.7") for about 12 years. I use it for overlanding (although not as much as I would like) and have just returned from a trip out to Colorado. 35" tires do offer more clearance, I can not speak to how a Currie or a Savvy lift kit ride but I can tell you that an OME 2 1/2" HD spring is very doable from Virginia to Colorado and back...... now if only I can get the AC to keep up with the transmission heat output.......

 

[luk4mud]

Have to throw another view out there- stay as low and light as you can, with an eye toward the future. Given the long highway drives you have planned, lower is better for alot reasons. Unless you are pretty sure you'll end up on 35's someday, go for the smaller lift. HTH

 

[IPerkWVU]

I just installed my OME 2.5 + 1.25 BL + MML +adj trackbars lift and 33s this spring, big fan of the setup. I plan to go down the tummy tuck route next spring. With my rubicon I'll need rear savvy upper control arms, a custom drive shaft and the UCF skid system.

I hope to get good tread wear out of my MT MTZ tires through next summer. When they are worn, I'll probably make the jump to 35s, buying the rest of the control arm set and springs or staying low with MCE or MC Fenders

I get the 35's itch daily but have to remind myself that my tires are big enough for now.

 

[FireJeep]

Oh, and as for the Detroit Locker, my old CJ5 had a full time locker in it and it was a handful in the winter. Having air actuated lockers since 2005, I would never go back to a full time locker. The CJ was a pretty short wheel base and after the 350 chevy swap it was a handful even on wet roads..... just my 2 cents....... get ARB air lockers or the like so it is more street friendly on those long road trips......

 

[The Fireman]

Thanks for the replies lots of good info for me to think on, I'm not committed to going the tummy tuck route if I go 4" suspension lift as I was only thinking about that as a way to pick up some more ground clearance if I only lifted the suspension 2.5". Not sure if we'll ever make the jump to 35's as the rear axle that I've got in the parts jeep is still a dana 35 and that jeep is geared for 33's so I would need to regear if we ever make that jump as well as all of the other expenses that go along with that. 31's have served us well so far but we are definitely going to upgrade to 33's because I would much rather over build than get out west and wish that we had just a little more tire/ ground clearance.

As to the Detroit this jeep wont be seeing snow, its only got 60k on it and no rust so it will be parked inside for the winters and I'll be driving my stock 01 that has seen lots of salt in its lifetime.

 

[Drizit]

You also plan to use flat fenders, this means you can get away with a little less total lift. This may sound strange coming from the guy with a long arm, 37, and a jk axle swap. But I suggest you go with your original plan of 2.5" lift a body lift and a tummy tuck. The tummy tuck will net you more ground clearance for your 1.25" body lift than you would with taller springs. Keep the jeep low for your usage, and remember, the larger the tires the more parts you will destroy.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

 

[AndyG]

For 33's, 4" of additional tire clearance is strongly recommended for the type of uses you mentioned. A 4" Currie suspension would be awesome, that's a superb product, but you can also spend less $$$ for a Zone 4.25" combination lift that includes a 3" suspension lift plus a 1.25" body lift. I run a Currie myself but that Zone 4.25" kit gives a lot of bang for the buck.

You will love that Detroit Locker, I ran one for years in my previous TJ and I miss the hell out of it. That particular locker does well on everything but icy surfaces so if you will have to drive on icy roads or trails, just be wary and drive it carefully.

Jerry is absolutely right.

I run 33 inch tires and you really need the clearance that a 4 inch lift is going to give you...

Also don't hesitate on the gearing if you do bigger tires do the gearing and don't look back

If you're going from a smaller Tire to a larger Tire you're going to feel the difference that the tires make so it's not going to be hard to convince you that regearing is essential.... When folks get an
off road vehicle with larger tires and it comes geared incorrectly they often don't realize how bad it is but that's not your case.

Keep us posted it sounds like you got your head on straight.

 

[The Fireman]

How much more suspension travel will I pick up (if any) going with the 4" currie lift vs say the super ultimate OME lift with currie control arms that DPG offroad offers?

 

[jjvw]

How much more suspension travel will I pick up (if any) going with the 4" currie lift vs say the super ultimate OME lift with currie control arms that DPG offroad offers?

1-2" additional depending on how well you setup the bump stops and shocks. That may not sound like a lot, until you try to do it.

Having built mine around 33s, I agree that 3.5-4" of total lift is the minimum. And I also like Currie 4" springs. Part of the goal is to at least maintain the factory amounts of suspension travel.

One thing I would do if I were to start over is to do the tummy tuck and raised gas tank skid very early on in the build.

 

[Farmergreg]

1-2" additional depending on how well you setup the bump stops and shocks. That may not sound like a lot, until you try to do it.

Having built mine around 33s, I agree that 3.5-4" of total lift is the minimum. And I also like Currie 4" springs. Part of the goal is to at least maintain the factory amounts of suspension travel.

One thing I would do if I were to start over is to do the tummy tuck and raised gas tank skid very early on in the build.

I took my LJR out once to the Badlands in Attica in stock configuration and figured first thing I needed to do is the tummy tuck.
"Build" parts are piling up in my shop and I have yet to decide on the spring lift.
With the ultra clearance UCF skid and low pro trans mount creating an effective lift of 3-4" I'm leaning toward the 2.5" OME spring route running 33's.

 

[tworley]

Also keep in mind that many flat fenders will give you no more clearance than stock.

 

[The Fireman]

1-2" additional depending on how well you setup the bump stops and shocks. That may not sound like a lot, until you try to do it.

Having built mine around 33s, I agree that 3.5-4" of total lift is the minimum. And I also like Currie 4" springs. Part of the goal is to at least maintain the factory amounts of suspension travel.

One thing I would do if I were to start over is to do the tummy tuck and raised gas tank skid very early on in the build.

I figured that would be the case but thought i'd ask as this is the first vehicle I've ever lifted, being a heavy equipment mechanic I'm not concerned about the install just trying to weigh all of the options before spending a lot of cash.

When it comes to the front upper control arms I see currie sells a kit to install johnny joints on the axle housing is that also required to use their arms? The lift kit doesn't include them and doesn't mention requiring them so I'm guessing they're not required but I am kinda curious about what benefits having johny joints at both ends of the front uppers provides.

 

[The Fireman]

Jerry is absolutely right.

I run 33 inch tires and you really need the clearance that a 4 inch lift is going to give you...

Also don't hesitate on the gearing if you do bigger tires do the gearing and don't look back

If you're going from a smaller Tire to a larger Tire you're going to feel the difference that the tires make so it's not going to be hard to convince you that regearing is essential.... When folks get an
off road vehicle with larger tires and it comes geared incorrectly they often don't realize how bad it is but that's not your case.

Keep us posted it sounds like you got your head on straight.

Funny you should mention the gearing, both of our jeeps have stock 3.07's at the moment running 31's and you're 100% correct I didn't realize how bad that combination performed until we bought the Willys with stock tires (that I later switched to 31's) The performance difference was amazing, all summer I had planned to do an axle swap if I could find a set of axles geared to 4.10's but the trip we took to new Hampshire convinced both of us that we really want 33's. When this parts jeep with 4.56's and good tires came up I jumped at the chance I cant wait to be able to use 5th gear again...and keep up with traffic on a hill.

 

[jjvw]

I figured that would be the case but thought i'd ask as this is the first vehicle I've ever lifted, being a heavy equipment mechanic I'm not concerned about the install just trying to weigh all of the options before spending a lot of cash.

The key to installing a lift well is to pay close attention to the travels. Keep the stock travels, at the very least. Add up travel when possible. This is a juggling act between lift height, tire size, shock length and bump stop extension.

When it comes to the front upper control arms I see currie sells a kit to install johnny joints on the axle housing is that also required to use their arms? The lift kit doesn't include them and doesn't mention requiring them so I'm guessing they're not required but I am kinda curious about what benefits having johny joints at both ends of the front uppers provides.

The front upper bushing replacement kit requires welding which is why it might be separate from the main bolt on kits.

Most don't replace those bushings, but it would be good to do it. It adds important strength to the tube side tower mount and it allows both ends of the control arm to share the work equally.